Wrong Turn

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

The Rusty Philosopher


25.
+1
1 votes

Banjolero 5.10c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jeff Neal, Theresa Neal in 2008
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Around the corner from Wrong Turn is this heavily featured face. Climb to a ledge to reach the high first bolt then continue up the face on pockets and pinches staying left of a crack. Move left onto the face before the chains.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
slopey (1) vertical (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.56 stars (93 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (76 votes)

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Submitted by: likealadder
Date: Dec 7th, 2015

Submitted by: polloloco
Date: Jun 25th, 2014

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Nov 3rd, 2009

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 1st, 2008

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 1st, 2008

Comments

1
tania said on December 22nd, 2008
Really fun route..pump hits you all once! A little sandy, but with a little traffic will clean up nicely!!
2
Anonymous said on December 28th, 2008
10c Pump ?
3
mcrib said on December 30th, 2008
This route has some holds that won't be there long.
4
pigsteak said on January 1st, 2009
many holds seemed soft and ready to crumble, but amazingly they all stayed. too bad, bc the movement is cool. a bit runout in the middle.
5
Sco Bro said on January 2nd, 2009
Pigsteak forgot to spray about whether or not he flashed this climb, odd.
6
pigsteak said on January 2nd, 2009
one more reason I hate ScoBro.....here it goes..I hung THREE times my first time on this. I whined for 20 minutes, almost backed off before the chains, and was a scared little baby. better?
7
Jeff said on January 5th, 2009
This route is temporarily closed and has a red tag on the first hanger.The rock was fractured at one of the anchor bolts. I've removed the anchors and will relocate them sometime soon.
8
Jeff said on January 25th, 2009
Chains are in and about 10 ft lower.
9
ray said on April 13th, 2009
Sketchy rock but good climbing.
10
michaelarmand said on April 27th, 2009
I really liked the route, it is cleaning up well...
11
ahab said on May 19th, 2009
someone - you don't get pumped on 10c? STRONG! despite its chossy nature, this climbs great. i don't think anything that breaks off on the lower 3/4 will alter the grade, but if that huge flake at the last bolt goes...
12
The Pirate said on August 14th, 2009
I thought this route climbed really well...lots of fun...
13
Jeff said on August 14th, 2009
This route bugs me. I am going to put glue-ins a little higher for the anchors. As it stands, the finish sucks. The finishing moves were and will be cool. It will be better sometime this fall.
14
Jeff said on August 24th, 2009
Glue ins w/chains are in and 4 - 5 ft higher. I'll get back in the next couple of weeks to remove the bolted anchors. If this is on your spray list, I guess you'll have to climb it again. ;)
15
climb2core said on November 1st, 2010
Really enjoyed the climb... worth at least 3 stars in my 10c book :)
16
jlu said on October 7th, 2011
why all the 2star hate? this is the reason you come to RRG for classic pumpy jug haul climbing style
17
tradotto said on April 1st, 2012
There is some sketchy rock rubbing between the last and 2nd from last bolt. I'd extend the draws on those two bolts. Other than that awesome climb. Crux is the two bolts.
18
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
I think this route was a little different than the first time I climbed it. Really dug it, thanks Jeff!
19
Jeff said on June 8th, 2012
Originally put up pre glueins and rock at anchors fractured so it was shorter, then fixed. Glad you liked, I think it's pretty good too!
20
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
The top-out finish is cool and definitely worth it
21
Power2U said on June 11th, 2012
Seemed solid to me... bolts and anchors seemed fine... thanks for fixing this one up I thought it was a lot of fun!
22
Willy said on September 24th, 2012
This climb must have improved drastically from when the first few folks commented on here. Holds were solid, aesthetically pleasing, rock felt solid, and hands out a nice pump for 10c.
23
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2012
Route is very fun, clean and in great shape.
24
dustonian said on August 6th, 2013
In its "clean" state, this route is now one of the best 10's in the Red.
25
Cryo said on April 14th, 2014
Great route! Nice steady climb. Has a sick knee bar a little over 3/4 of the way up. (Little sharp of a knee bar!) Definitely worth the climb!