Face Up to That Crack

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

Maypop


5.
+0
0 votes

Mr. Bungle 5.8+ (Sport) **

First Ascent: Jeff Moll in 1992
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the blunt arete 25 feet to the right of Face Up to That Crack.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.98 stars (157 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (131 votes)

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Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 15th, 2007

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 15th, 2007

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Comments

1
Don McGlone said on January 16th, 2003
Lead Mr. Bunghole trad acouple of years ago.
2
jlu said on November 23rd, 2003
good beginner route with lots of resting spots on the arete
3
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2004
nice, easy beginner route - a 5.7 maybe?
4
pianomahnn said on June 15th, 2004
The start is retarded, but the remainder of the route is good times. Nice, easy, relaxing.
5
Yasmeen said on December 16th, 2004
"You're a rock climber, baby!"
6
jcwhite said on January 11th, 2005
my first lead, its a good route for that.
7
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2005
Was originally a trad route that went to the top of the cliff. Later bolted and renamed.
8
Paul3eb said on April 4th, 2005
unless this is going to be your first lead or something novel like that, i really don't think this route is worth the effort.
9
K-Dawg said on September 29th, 2005
Everyone has there own tastes. I don't think this is the best climb at the crag but still worth doing.
10
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
It's a 5.8 arete. Lots of rests.
11
ElectricDisciple said on February 9th, 2006
Climbed this one on Feb. 7, 2006. Another good lead climb and I love Aretes. "Hug it and Go!" Rap rings are worn so be careful not to use 'em and fix your rap through the second ones. The start is fun!
12
J-Rock said on February 9th, 2006
Rap rings? The online guide lists them as cold shuts.
13
ewaaser said on February 9th, 2006
Yep, right hand ring in particular is pretty worn.
14
MudFalcon said on May 30th, 2006
My first lead
15
thiedichfunk said on June 11th, 2006
My first lead, but definitly not 8+. I think it is 7 or 8-, easier then "face up to that crack", which is 5.8.
16
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Nice arete climb. Good first lead.
17
Ptaimers said on August 25th, 2006
Great climb, lots of rests, lots of fun at night. Can someone please check the rap rings??? Worn!!
18
jamlawyer said on March 29th, 2007
Does anyone know if rap rings have been replaced since the posts last year?
19
dbarless said on May 21st, 2007
Not the greatest climb. The start is silly, the moves are straightforward. Nothing special about this one, definitely a 7.
20
tunedvwgti said on October 5th, 2007
Fun and Pretty climb. No way it is a 8+. Rap rings and bolts looked good to me...
21
lotus said on November 16th, 2007
the start is the best! my first lead too....
22
Meringue said on March 6th, 2008
Beautiful fun climb with a nice view. This arete is full of massive holds and "no hands". I would rate this a 5.7 if you start left and traverse right along congruent horizontal cracks, and a 5.8+ if you start directly under the first bolt (which is more fun). Yes, I would recomend this to a friend
23
keegan540 said on April 23rd, 2008
what you would expect from a 5.7 route.
24
kisor740 said on October 28th, 2008
fun route for last climb of the day due to good sunset at ur back
25
unknown climber said on December 18th, 2008
Climb it for a easy warm up
26
45percent said on January 16th, 2009
Agree with whoever said this felt easier than Face Up.
27
Dman said on January 23rd, 2009
defintly easy but pretty fun
28
1 wheel drive said on March 12th, 2009
Fun. Nice big things for an intermediate climber to grab and stand on.
29
gripster said on May 4th, 2009
felt easy for a 5.8
30
SCIN said on May 4th, 2009
That's because 5.8 is easy.
31
Redpoint said on September 13th, 2009
This was my first night climb, and it was a great one. It was well protected and the route finding was easy, so I recommend it for night climbing. A few things I learned: even though my 130 lumen spot is way brighter than the flood on my new and improved PT Apex, I found that the flood worked better, and I also learned that pointing the headlamp almost as low as it goes is great for the footwork, and yet you can still look way up above you if you need to. Of course there was plenty of light directly in front of me with it set like that because of how close you are to the wall and the fact that it is on flood mode.
32
pigsteak said on September 13th, 2009
am I the only one going to comment on this??????? fine, I'll back off.
33
pkananen said on September 13th, 2009
Redpoint, I hope you were carrying a spare light source. Getting stuck high up on a wall when you drop your head lamp is very dangerous. It's always best to carry an emergency light in your haulbag in case you need it. Please be careful out there.
34
Saxman said on September 14th, 2009
Didn't you read about taping a Tikka to each foot in John Long's "Epic Solo Climbing Stories?" You really need to read more before you attempt such foolishness.
35
Redpoint said on September 22nd, 2009
As an experienced caver(and decent vertical caver) you would think I would have brought one of my many headlamps as a backup with me but I never thought about it in the case of night climbing. My belayer was using the old PT Apex with a Cree LED, and as you all know those Cree's have one hell of a spot, and there was never a time when he couldn't have just lit up the route for me. I also figured my headlamp was attached pretty bomber, but now that I think about it a lead fall could rip it off. Well if it did fall off I could have just been lowered, and I could have put it back on and then finish the climb, so really I don't think it was a big deal. Now if it was a trad route(and I was a trad climber) I'm sure I would have been paranoid enough that I would have remembered to bring one.