Wet Your Whistle

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Beer Trailer Crag

Beer-Thirty


17.
+1
1 votes

Afternoon Buzz 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Lena Bakanova and Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Easy climbing to a ledge followed by a boulder problem and long reaches between good holds. Thanks to Vento climbing for donating the awesome hangers! http://www.vento.ru/
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Beer Trailer
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.92 stars (25 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (17 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 21st, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on March 7th, 2012
Thanks to Vento Climbing for donating the awesome hangers! http://www.vento.ru/
2
Andrew said on March 7th, 2012
This route is really good. Super cool moves. don't let the chossy looking bottom deter you, it is really not that chossy, and the climbing is good through it.
3
pumpout2004 said on April 2nd, 2012
Favorite route in the red...although I was a little drunk when I climbed it.
4
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2012
Agreed, getting most of the way through one of those 22oz Red Stripes really creates the ideal conditions for this route
5
Jeff said on April 3rd, 2012
This route should have a recycling bin at the base.
6
dustonian said on April 3rd, 2012
Ha! Should add that "stays dry in a downpour" is mostly true except for the jug between the 3rd and 4th bolt, which is so incut it can form a little puddle of condensation in very high humidity... you can see the "wet spot" from the ground. Definitely 4 stars when dry anyway!
7
pumpout2004 said on April 5th, 2012
Andrew has that same problem...but his is harder to see from the ground.
8
dustonian said on April 6th, 2012
Yeah, at Andrew's height I bet you can barely see his wet spot from the ground.
9
rich said on April 2nd, 2013
The third bolt got pulled out by hand a few days ago from what I hear.
10
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2013
Bolt was fine, it just needed to be tightened with a wrench, rather than loosened. I went ahead and swapped it out with a glue-in cuz I was there with all the shit. You can always remove the stud part of newish 5-piece bolts by hand once they start spinning.
11
chriss said on April 2nd, 2013
Two great additions to the cliff. Nice work!
12
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2013
wouldn't know, never had a spinner- your bit was wobbling if you can pull the bolt out, or just a shotty bit to start maybe T-
13
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2013
No, If the hanger spins on an newer, uncorroded 5-piece bolt in sandstone, you can typically loosen the stud by hand and pull it out; the sleeves and cone remain. Spinners are frequent on bolts that take a lot of falls in soft sandstone; in fact, otherwise it has probably been tightened beyond the recommended 40 lbs of torque, which risk shearing the hex head.
14
climb2core said on April 2nd, 2013
Troy, you probably enjoyed the climb... no need to hate on another developer.
15
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2013
yeah the climb was ok- if he wouldn't of bolted it, I was coming to do them last trip but couldn't get there. I'm not hating at all bro, not bashing- just stating why the bolt could just pull out, I have to hammer my bolts in and crank them down. Dustin did good work on them, bolts placed well- not bitching, it didn't fall out on us. T-
16
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2013
45 ft lbs. plated,- bolts shear at around 100 ft lbs, 1/2 5 piece- I have seen only 1 bolt get over torqued causing it to shear, caused the bolter to punch the wall really hard, this is out of like some 10,000 anchors i have installed- i do trust the 5 piece over glue personally, both do the same job- both can be done wrong, no perfect system- but I think we are trying to make things better for all in the end. and Dustin- nice work on the Brightside, thanks for all the effort T-
17
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2013
thanks Troy, glad we are going to have make up sex soon. Looking forward to falling on Butane Junky, it's garnered quite the rep already!
18
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2013
hey I don't kiss on the first date- I'm saving myself for marriage, but how bout a hug? Enjoy the ride on the Junkie- after you climb it- you won't hurt my feelings by bashing the 4th bolt placement- I like the spot anyway. goodluck and stay thin on the wall T-
19
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2013
kinda hard to stay thin with this beer gut but I'll try
20
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2013
thanks for the new route name for a steep to slab line- Make up sex, kiss the anchors and get divorced by the time you hit the ground, go find another 1 to love.
21
whoneedsfeet said on April 4th, 2013
Cool moves, the crux smacked me around a lot due to not wanting to commit to a big move and or being a lil bitch.
22
ray said on May 12th, 2013
This and the line to the left have some of the coolest holds ever. Nice thuggy climbing. Nice work Stephens.
23
climb2core said on May 8th, 2016
Apparently the beta is to throw to the swimming pool hold. I'll wait again to try it in fall. Otherwise, great route
24
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2016
In your case climb2core, it's lose weight, add power, endurance, etc.. and then have someone feed you move to move beta from the ground as you fall up it.
25
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2016
is Ian still giving us blow by blow of every single climb he ticks? next you'll start bolting and telling us how cool all your new areas are....
26
climb2core said on May 9th, 2016
One up from a top rope tough guy. The anon troll.
27
Willy said on October 17th, 2016
Jug was wet today to the point that water splashed out onto my belayer when i grabbed it. Was able to almost completely dry it off with some chalk and brushing though
28
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2017
the last half of this route is amazing. cool sequences on solid rock. next time there's a line waiting to get on ro or hippocrite, do yourself a favor and drive the extra few minutes down 11 to rock climb this rock climb.
29
Chiyram said on June 26th, 2017
Really fun route! A couple bolts of business then don't fall on the last couple moves to the chains! It had down poured the day before and I didn't find any wet holds on this route.