Knot Sure

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

The "end" of the crag


29.
+0
0 votes

The Preacher's Daughter 5.11- (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Dean, Shadow Ayala in 2012
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of Briefer History of Climb is some jug and hueco swinging fun on semi-decent vertical rock.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.76 stars (71 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (69 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2012
felt right on the 11a/b line. couldn't call it. still needs to clean up a little bit, but thought it was really fun.
2
MartyV said on October 21st, 2012
Fun moves. Lots of loose rock/holds still, be careful what you pull on.
3
Anonymous said on November 4th, 2012
Concur with the 11a/b. Given the other routes in the area. Feels like it would be a soft 11b, or solid 11a. The movement was really good, but the quality of rock kept me from enjoying the route entirely. Has potential if it cleans up.
4
Anonymous said on November 4th, 2012
Probably has the most amount of botched holes on any route I have ever seen. Fill those holes in brah.
5
Jeff said on November 10th, 2012
Really want to like this route but the choss factor wins out. If it "cleans up", the grade will go up too. It was fun, but it was also quite chossy.
6
neverstopmoving said on November 12th, 2012
This route will probably become a "must do" once it cleans up. Fun moves on big holds. The choss factor made it feel like adventure climbing. Hard toss up between 10d and 11a. There are so many rests. The star rating should go up as more people get on this.
7
Rollo said on November 17th, 2012
Pretty sure this should have been called "Briefest History of Climb"...must have failed the pattern recognition test.
8
Saxman said on February 19th, 2013
Flexing death flake is now history. Scary how easily it pulled off. Hopefully it wasn't flexing when it was bolted like it was when we climbed it.
9
anticlmber said on April 17th, 2013
now that the choss bubble is gone, hanging/clipping that draw is way harder as is the move off of the shelf. good route that's cleaned up well. needs some anchor love as well.in the way of chain. i only had one quicklink with me.
10
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2013
perhaps moving that bolt down would help now that what you used to clip off of is gone.
11
dustonian said on April 19th, 2013
really fun moves. bolts placements are fine.... finished out the anchor with some quicklinks
12
Willy said on April 24th, 2013
Third or fourth bolt is way off camber. Cleaning up nicely though nothing broke when we were on it today
13
Anonymous said on May 14th, 2013
Got on this route yesterday, grade pretty spot on, I would say 11a/b compared to the other routes at the crag, also with mention of clipping holds coming off, it may be approaching 11b. Some flakes that were marked seemed solid, others not so much... Needs more traffic but super fun route!
14
Anonymous said on May 18th, 2013
Great movement, nothing broke for 3 of us. 11a fits.
15
fpmadden said on May 27th, 2013
Such an awesome route. Big moves on big holds with a bit of a changeup for the crux. Definitely liked the palm down. Even though there are clearly some things that are gonna be breaking off in the future it doesn't lower the quality of the route since you don't really need any of those holds. Awesome route, thanks for bolting it.
16
Scorl said on July 8th, 2013
A note about rain: We climbed this after a full week of wet weather and even while it was raining quite a bit and found nothing but dry rock. There's even enough room at the base of the cliff to keep gear and the belayer dry.
17
Chiyram said on February 24th, 2014
This was a great route. Just two jugs on it that are hollow and probably need to be pried off. Neither is needed for the climb. Classic Red River jug hall with some fun moves. And I would call it 11a only because of the pump factor.
18
JeffCastro said on March 17th, 2014
Not as easy as the name would imply.
19
Anonymous said on October 8th, 2014
Choss factor is gone except for a couple hollow flakes. Awesome route, thanks for this one!
20
J-Ru said on November 13th, 2014
Very fun route -- big moves to big holds with a few interesting moves mixed in. FYI -- I have reported them, but the 6th bolt wobbles and the left anchor & 3rd bolt hanger spin. I tried to tighten the bolts, but it felt like the cone was spinning.
21
Climbike1 said on August 5th, 2015
6th bolt is loose in its hole (and hanger spinning). I would not like to fall on this one... Anyone tried to tighten it? Since the bolt is moving up/down, it may require more than that ?! By the way, this route is absolutely awesome!
22
J-Ru said on August 6th, 2015
Yes, see comment 20. New bolt (glue-in) probably needed.
23
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2015
Fixed the spinners. Tightened down one and added three glue-in's to replace the perma-spinners. The old bolts/hardware still need to be chopped (literally).
24
brayackmedia said on March 21st, 2016
Good route. I would just go ahead and call it 5.11a. Its about the same as Guernica. Good routes. Some sketchy flakes, but they're probably not going anywhere.