Zero Dark Fiddy

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

Golden Snow Cone


13.
+0
0 votes

72 Hour Energy 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2011
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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To the right of Zero Dark Fiddy. Climb the beautiful neon green and yellow slab then tackle the relentless overhanging head wall to a smack down topout. The must do route at the Gold Wall section of Bear's Den.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.24 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (21 votes)

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Submitted by: Brentucky
Date: Feb 18th, 2013

Comments

1
Andrew said on December 13th, 2012
This route tops out the cliff, and the top out might be a little dirty if it hasn't been climbed recently. Fun pumpy climbing, on beautiful neon green and orange rock.
2
Anonymous said on December 15th, 2012
Really good route. The overhanging section reminded me of Banshees middle, and the top was just cool, albeit a bit dirty. Good warmup considering its 12a!
3
Chuckdott said on December 16th, 2012
Great climb. I love that it builds on you to the crux at the end - makes a challenging onsight. Although the top out is interesting and adds to the climbing, I don't really think its worth the rope drag, my 2 cents. High quality climb regardless.
4
Andrew said on December 16th, 2012
Chuck makes a good point. I heavily debated to add the top out or end it at the lip, so... I asked the all knowing Ray Ellington. He said to add the top out because not many routes at the red even have the option to do so. I listened and the rest is history. Its kind of a love it or hate it thing. Sorry you didn't enjoy it, but glad you like the route.
5
pigsteak said on December 16th, 2012
there was your first mistake, asking ray....
6
Anonymous said on January 3rd, 2013
good.call.on.the.topout_great.route!_rope.drag.is.a.nonissue.since.the.end.is.immediate
7
dustonian said on February 24th, 2013
Great route, nice work Team Wheatley!!
8
Brentucky said on March 10th, 2013
Thanks for leaving those ticks up top dustonian (I assume). I didn't blow it this time. This route is cool.
9
dustonian said on March 11th, 2013
Anytime bub. Tickmarks are crucial up there ;) This thing is killer--about as solid as 12a gets IMO... and apparently way harder than Triple Sec according to your spray list, 'tucky!!
10
fpmadden said on April 11th, 2013
Wanted so badly to get on this climb cause it looks super stellar, but when making a route top out there needs to be better info on the top situation like if there is anything up there to anchor to, what would be needed to setup an anchor system, if you need to hike out what direction, don't want to be crossing private property or anything. Info would be nice for people not familiar with the area. Or just add anchors and if people wanna top out they still can.
11
dustonian said on April 11th, 2013
You need two #6 camalots and a full set of hexes to build an anchor on this route. An extra-long cordelete, climbing knife, and Nalgene bottle would be a good idea as well.
12
dustonian said on April 11th, 2013
also watch out for the Venturas up there, they are a trigger-happy bunch
13
Andrew said on April 11th, 2013
Its a sport route... it has anchors. I haven't climbed it in a while, but pretty sure it has fixed steal biners so you don't even have to clean.
14
One-Fall said on April 11th, 2013
Aren't those the anchors in the picture? What am I missing?
15
Andrew said on April 11th, 2013
No, the anchors are above that by about 10-12 feet. You top out and clip the anchors. There is minimal rope drag because the angle isn't to severe.
16
One-Fall said on April 11th, 2013
Route looks beautiful. Thanks for yet another one.
17
JR said on April 29th, 2013
Great route. Are top outs on sport routes cool??? Sure why not. Sweet silhouette of a woman facing left on this route. You can almost make it out in the picture. It is up and right of the man in red.
18
Power2U said on May 12th, 2013
Not sure why everyone's calling this a "top out"???? You don't physically top out the cliff and stand there with the trees! I think it makes senseyou kinds mantle up and then clip the anchors, if it ended lower it wouldn'r be the adventure that it is and it would be easier. Good line, get on it!
19
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2013
Great little route. The "top out" isn't a top out at all. You don't even have to mantle. You can just keep climbing up until you're standing if you so desire, but the mantle is cool.
20
lena_chita said on May 1st, 2017
There is now a sizable groove in the rock where it turns from overhanging to slabby, from the rope running over the lip for the "topout", aka the last bolt to the anchors. I would have preferred not to have my rope run through it, but oh well... Very enjoyable climbing from the ledge to the last bolt, and the bright rock color down low is so cool.
21
Ryanwsu4 said on October 4th, 2017
The top out moves arn't even bad moves, just not worth the rope dragging on the rock. On lowering you can just hear your rope grinding away at the rock. Personally, I'd prefer it be an 11d or a softer 12a and end at the lip. The face moves are 100% worth the climb either way.
22
Anonymous said on October 4th, 2017
So you should have rappelled then instead lol