Coffee Talk

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

Captain One Eye


2.
+0
0 votes

A Way Of Life 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Charles Tabor, Mark Williams in 1990
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the bolted route 50 feet right of Coffee Talk. The route is on orange rock and starts behind a hemlock.
Walk off to the right.
Descent: Walk off
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.53 stars (38 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (23 votes)

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Comments

1
Wicked Tribe said on September 11th, 2003
This "sport route" has no anchors. Be aware. Also is usually home to wasps at the top in the summer.
2
Power2U said on November 24th, 2003
Not a very good climb.... hardware is suspect.
3
dj_ax said on June 5th, 2004
Possibly a hold broke off about 30' up? Or it's just a loooooong move.
4
ace_trice said on November 11th, 2004
Piton and 3 spinning bolts make for high confidence in protection.
5
Ascentionist said on October 13th, 2005
This would be a great two star route if properly protected with a good set of top anchors. We are in the 21st century aren't we?
6
Sco Bro said on March 20th, 2006
You won't here me say this much. . .don't bother getting on this route. The old rusty piton is the second best piece of gear on this route. The bolts are rusty, there are no anchors. I downclimbed and cleaned the route because I did not want to trust my life to one rusty bolt at the top.
7
michaelarmand said on October 6th, 2007
It is a top out climb.....belay from the tree above. And the bolts do suck....
8
Myke Dronez said on April 13th, 2008
Decent climbing eclipsed by sketchball bolts. Placed a few pieces for backup. It would be a better line with anchors and trustworthy bolts, but hey, you know why you're climbing this thing...
9
ahab said on April 14th, 2008
Would I recommend this route to a friend (or enemy)? No. Would I suggest replacing the bolts/hangers that make all the malenky little hairs on your plott stand endwise and send shivers crawling up like slow malenky lizards and then down again? No. This line is less than spectacular, even if it did have new hardware that was real horrorshow and gave you a nice, warm, vibraty feeling all through your guttiwuts.
10
dah-le said on November 25th, 2009
22nov2009 this route got re-equipped somewhere along the way...and a bolt added (relative to Ray's 2nd ed guide)....and there are anchors. Thanks to the re-equippers whoever they may be.
11
Wes said on November 25th, 2009
Pretty sure it is the same number of bolts, one was just moved way right for the new anchor location. A pretty cool line, much better then people have rated it. For those that want to, the top out is still there to the left. There has been a lot of rebolting at this crag - very cool to see solid hardware to replace some scary bolts/anchors!
12
CLIMBTRAD said on May 16th, 2010
6 bolts plus two for the end. now its a very nice climb
13
Brentucky said on September 19th, 2010
Yep, this climb is pretty fun now. Thanks for rebolting since it sounds like once it sucked.
14
jlu said on June 19th, 2011
Must have put on some new anchors since the early comments... no complaints here, I thought this route was pretty fun. Wall is pretty dirty, but if you follow the route line stays clean to the top
15
michaelarmand said on August 26th, 2012
Thanks for the anchors, the route is better without the chossy top-out.