Monk in the Middle

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Monastery

Thelonius


13.
+0
0 votes

Arete Syndrome 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Neal, Sam Gilbert in 2013
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This is the gorgeous arete on the right side of the wall. Begin with a thin start to reach a blobby hueco at the third bolt. Climb the low angle face with precarious movement and shift left near the top for the chains.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (21 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 28th, 2013

Comments

1
JR said on October 13th, 2014
Mostly fun in the sun!!! Nice work Jeff.
2
J-Ru said on October 20th, 2014
Cool movement throughout. Clipping the 7th bolt is really tough and moving from the 7th bolt to the jugs above seemed really difficult as well. That section felt much harder than 10d.
3
Nate W said on November 15th, 2015
The blobby hueco is full of wasps as of 11/15/15. Do NOT stick your hand in the crack on the right side of it. If you want to climb this, I would recommend climbing carefully to the left. Climber beware!
4
Chiyram said on September 6th, 2016
This route looked awesome and ended up climbing awesome! Pretty confusing crux section, that makes this thing fun. Felt pretty hard until I figured out the beta.
5
Jackiefreesh said on November 9th, 2016
Anybody know what's going on with the hardware about eight feet to the right of the arete? Looks like it could be a good one.
6
MikeWilkinson said on September 16th, 2017
Hard off the ground on this one. Crux section up high felt pretty hard for a 10. In fact, the start and the upper crux felt harder than any moves on the nearby 11s but maybe I was missing something.