patriotsquestion911.com

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Rethink911.org


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ae911truth.org 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mike Cook, Brittainy Rash in 2014
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Grab a nice, fat, square flake to get to the first bolt then shift right. Play around in a pair of huecos in the middle of the wall after which the angle kicks back a bit. These route names are cuckoo.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3.22 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (25 votes)

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Comments

1
pigsteak said on April 21st, 2014
mike, the bolting on this one is a bit off if your goal was to make some "beginnner" routes for those new to the grade...bolts 3 and 4 are in tricky positions, relative to falls back into the slab. a bolt right before the gigantic hueco would have been nice...and then reposition the next two bolts....but since they are glueins, I realize that is a bit much to ask, so just a handy "heads up" to climbers who are leadfing at their limit on this one.....the movement is fabulous.
2
Mike Cook said on May 5th, 2014
sweet baby jesus... I intended for this route to be potentially neck breaking... reality is a very harsh thing.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZ5s5xGI9PI
3
caribe said on June 27th, 2014
I am calling this thing Truther 1.
4
Wolf said on July 13th, 2014
Very fun movement. Shame about the bolting and the name.
5
Yasmeen said on September 22nd, 2014
Well said, Kipp and Wolf. Agreed. If it weren't for the bolting job, I'd recommend this one to people, though I'd use Art's naming convention or something similar, like Truther Slab [1-4].
6
Chiyram said on September 28th, 2014
The bolting is a little bad in parts but I didn't feel like I was pulling hard moves while it was runout. Really hard pull at the bulge towards the top almost spit me off.
7
Mike Cook said on November 3rd, 2014
I'm considering adding a bolt or two to this one, to make it pedestrian. Someone can get hurt on it as it is now. The bolts protect the hard moves quite well, but maybe for this day and age it's better to keep routes 100% safe and not count on people not falling where they shouldn't.
8
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2014
Mike, you're a douche. You have numerous people telling you that you did a crappy job bolting this one and instead you have to insult "people in this day and age". Get over yourself. Change the crappy name while you're at it took.
9
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2014
hahaha- someone beat me to it, my thoughts exactly after his comments back to Kipp and others- total toolbag
10
mourz said on January 1st, 2015
Route put me in check after sending a few other low 10's. One of the high bolts was rather nefarious placing on lead, either one or two before the anchor.
11
Anonymous said on January 1st, 2015
Anonymous from Nov. 3, Let me get this straight: Mike et al. scrubs, funds, and bolts a route. You climb it and don't like the name or the fact that it seems to be missing a bolt. Mike mentions that he may fix it and now you start going off on him?! ...bitchy little whiney sport wanker...
12
Rx2Climb said on April 30th, 2016
Great Route, too bad no one will ever talk about it because it has a fucking horrible name.
13
Daeris said on July 3rd, 2016
After cleanly sending Boltergeist and Pre-emptive Strike in Muir, I figured I'd give this a go the following day. This 10b kicked my ass, personally. There was some fun movement on it, but it was pretty sustained techy footwork throughout, and a big move over a bulge on finger crimps. I'm not saying it's a terrible 10... I'm just saying this sucker humbled me. Finished it after several whips and a bruised ego.
14
Anonymous said on July 3rd, 2016
That's most likely because you were climbing in Muir Valley. Fairly soft grades there.
15
chengjixuan said on September 14th, 2016
The crux for me is hard to clip the rope!! Balance on a very small edge hold, and I knew I need to do next move. But I'm so afraid....Next time maybe