Hourglass Crack

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Fruit Wall

Witness the Citrus


10.
+1
1 votes

Banana Hammock 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dario Ventura in 2011
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just left of the crack splitting the main wall is this line marked by an obvious protrusion near the third bolt. A sequence of challenging sidepull moves leads to the mandatory nut rest on the protrusion. Progress through immensely pumpy edges and hidden pockets separated by decent rests.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Bolt anchor
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.09 stars (33 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (27 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 24th, 2017

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 29th, 2016

Submitted by: Episketch
Date: Aug 10th, 2015

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: May 17th, 2015

Submitted by: m carville
Date: May 16th, 2015

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 9th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 9th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 9th, 2014

Submitted by: Cromper
Date: Apr 15th, 2014

Comments

1
climb2core said on May 26th, 2014
This route was superb. Awesome movement on good stone that goes and goes. Some sand on ledges is to be expected but wasn't enough to leave sand or a bad taste in my mouth. Thanks Dario.
2
Power2U said on June 1st, 2014
Great line. Less sandy than it's easier neighbor, and really not that much harder... 12a? None the less a great line up this super cool tall wall, again full 60m required.
3
dustonian said on September 14th, 2014
Great route. Stick clip the 2nd to make things a bit easier on yourself.
4
dustonian said on September 14th, 2014
Also didn't seem like the quality deteriorated on the upper part of the route... if anything it got better. Great heartbreaker crux up top.
5
zdordai said on October 17th, 2014
agree with all the other comments, this route is great and does not decrease in quality whatsoever as one climbs. hard to believe this thing is 90 ft long, definitely bring a 60m rope and tie a knot, I only used a 70 and it didnt seem like there was too much left...anyways, very similar to witness with just a bit smaller holds. classic...bring a brush!
6
krampus said on October 27th, 2014
great rout, maybe a bit soft for 12b but the movement was great
7
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2015
Flunker has that dad bod going on nowadays.
8
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2015
daddy knows how to please
9
brayackmedia said on October 13th, 2015
This route is my style and I would say 12b all day long.
10
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2016
well, that confirms it... 12a for sure
11
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2016
thanx to Marty and Hayley for the hardware upgrades on this one... awesome route!
12
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2016
i like this route better than witness the citrus. just as long with a cooler boulder problem down low followed by more thoughtful sequences all the way to the top. this route is sustained, but in an odd way. plenty of opportunities to rest, but almost every bolt presents a bit of a problem to figure out. not just paddling the whole way.
13
lagricola said on March 28th, 2017
really good, not over til it's over