Dirty Habit

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Serenity Point

Linny Lu


12.
+0
0 votes

Dancing Queen 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Aaron Saxton in 2014
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Left of Dirty Habit is a pair of lines. This climbs the slab with a low crux. Dirty at this time but as with most lines it may clean up to be a decent line given the solidity of the rock.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.77 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (29 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Mar 16th, 2015

Comments

1
pigsteak said on May 2nd, 2014
are these the new SS 5 piece?
2
dustonian said on May 3rd, 2014
Yeah, except glue-ins at the anchor. At some point I'll try to brush them... please help them along in the meantime!
3
Rooky said on May 3rd, 2014
Fun movement in the lower half!
4
climb2core said on May 3rd, 2014
Fun movement on dirty but solid rock. Gave it a brushing on the way down. If this can clean up it will be a very good line. Get on it and bring your brush. Oh, and as Rollo can attest, you may want to stick clip the first bolt ;) Didn't feel much easier than the 11a Malignant I got on that day. Dancing Queen should probably be 10c and Malignant 10d comparatively IMO... Do them both and see what you think!
5
dustonian said on May 3rd, 2014
Thanks for the cleaning...it'll buff out in no time ;)
6
Rollo said on May 3rd, 2014
Yeah man! Blew a pretty big foot while clipping the first and ended up in the punji pit. Be careful down low till this one cleans up. Fun low crux! Thanks Dustin.
7
dustonian said on May 6th, 2014
"Punji Pit" haha may have to change the name
8
tradotto said on May 27th, 2014
We were breaking chips and blocks off of both of these routes left and right. At one point the wind blew a few chips off. Have your belay wear a helmet.
9
MartyV said on August 4th, 2014
These first two routes still need a bit of cleaning up. helmet recommended for the belayer
10
Chiyram said on October 10th, 2016
This route was enjoyable. Didn't break anything on it, but there was some dusty ledges and holds. Looks like it doesn't get much love. Watch for that thin crux at the bottom.
11
bcircell said on October 9th, 2017
I thought this line was better than the number of stars indicated. Didn't see or grab anything that felt chossy.