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This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Red Devil


8.
+0
0 votes

Cock to the Rock 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Erik Kloeker, Zach Davis in 2014
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin on a dirt ledge and pull up onto a stepped rock ledge to gain the face. Pull a difficult low move then cruise up the slab passing a trio of shallow huecos. Stick clip the second bolt if you want to be super safe.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
crimpy (1) vertical (1) sunny (1)
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3 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (28 votes)

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Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: May 26th, 2014

Comments

1
Chiyram said on May 23rd, 2014
Pretty fun route. One hard move down low and the rest is pretty chill climbing.
2
annmaroo said on May 27th, 2014
FFA, wooo! Nice route Erik! Fun moves the entire way.
3
DrRockso said on June 13th, 2014
Would be a good 9 slab of not for the 10 move at the bottom, good route for those breaking into the grade if you stickclip to the second bolt. Named after the crazy old dude from New River who advised us if we were going to have any luck climbing slab we should keep our cock close to the rock. -Erik
4
dustonian said on August 3rd, 2014
Really fun except for the anklebreaker crux. Definitely stick the 2nd if not rock-solid at the grade.
5
campby said on September 14th, 2015
I'd recommend stick clipping the second bolt if 10 is near your limit.
6
lena_chita said on October 11th, 2016
Maybe stuff has broken on this route by now, but the start felt way harder than a 5.10. I though I had gotten on the neighboring 5.11 by accident, until I got past the 2nd bolt.
7
DrRockso said on October 12th, 2016
I did the first ascent and was also on it this Saturday, nothing has broken. It was my first time grading a route so maybe a bit of a sandbag, I don't think the consensus of 10c is unfair if you have the beta down. Red Devil is a bit sandbagged IMO.
8
Chiyram said on October 12th, 2016
I think 10b is reasonable. It's a hard move, maybe 2 at the beginning, then the rest is 5.9+ at the most. Dancing Queen 10b at Serenity is similar but with a harder move at the bottom (I thought), along with Fast Food Christians at 10a.
9
lena_chita said on October 12th, 2016
Chiyram, I don't think the grade is ever an "average" of the hardest move and the rest of the route. Bees in the Trap would be about 5.10b by the same logic... It's been a long time since I've done Fast Food Christians, so hard to compare, but I did it back when I was barely climbing 5.10s, and I don't think I could have done this route back then. I think this route is more like Jailbird at the Zoo. Hard moves down low, sketchy 2nd clip, and then much easier climbing. That one clocks in at 10d, with a lot of people saying 11a... Maybe it's a reach thing.
10
Chiyram said on October 13th, 2016
Bees In The Trap is pretty soft, but also has a much harder boulder problem. If routes aren't ever an average of the whole route, then this route would be rated the same if every move was as hard as the first?
11
lena_chita said on October 13th, 2016
It's cumulative, not average. A route with one V2 boulder problem down low, and no pump factor, may be 5.11a, but a route with five V2 boulder problems stacked on top of each other + pump factor may be 5.12a. However, in case of a route with one V2 boulder problem down low, and no pump factor, it doesn't matter if what follows is 60 feet of 5.10a climbing, or 60 feet of 5.8 climbing. It is still 5.11a, because if you can't make that entry move, you are not sending it. Some routes get the grade because they are sustained, with no individual hard move. And some routes get the grade because of an obvious crux section. At the Red on overhanging routes it is usually a combination of both. But on vertical/slabby routes it is usually the hardest move that defines the difficulty. This route is of the second kind. But of course some people don't count the section that is stick-clipped as part of the route difficulty... which may be the case here. :)
12
Chiyram said on October 13th, 2016
I've climbed in quite a few states and Mexico, but I do not regularly see routes rated solely on one move or boulder problem. It takes into account the boulder problem, but not based on it solely. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of 5th class grading. If it was based on the hardest boulder problem, we would call the route V2. So excluding pump factor, a vertical 50ft long route with one V2 followed by 5.8 climbing is the same as a route with every move as a V2? I very much disagree and I feel most people wouldn't grade those routes the same. A grade of 5.10b, or whatever grade, is taking length, hardest move, sustained difficulty and angle into account (And others). Like you said, "cumulative", but regardless of pump or angle. Here is a funny article from climbing: http://www.climbing.com/news/climbing-magazine-introduces-new-objective-climbing-grade-scale/
13
lena_chita said on October 14th, 2016
Oh thank you! It appears that the RDHAWRDRBKOFLK calculator app is not available until April 1st, but as soon as it comes out, I will be downloading it. :) I knew there was a better way to do this!