8133

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Portal

Time Wrinkle


2.
+1
1 votes

Singularity 5.12c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley, Alex Southward, David Linz in 2014
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin on cheater stones and reach high for the starting holds. A bouldery sequence leads to a good stance where you can juice up for the impending mega flameout you are about to encounter. Ultra steep jugs on impeccable stone make this line well worth the trip.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.69 stars (39 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12 (42 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 3rd, 2017

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Oct 3rd, 2016

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 22nd, 2015

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 22nd, 2015

Submitted by: Andrew
Date: May 28th, 2014

Submitted by: Andrew
Date: May 28th, 2014

Comments

1
Andrew said on May 28th, 2014
This is probably the steepest 12c in the red and one of the most consistently steep routes of any grade. Tackle the v5/6 start and swim 60 more feet of sequential moves and monster knee bars.
2
pumpout2004 said on May 28th, 2014
This is route is super good! Maybe this video can explain it better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pXfHLUlZf4&feature=kp
3
climb2core said on November 23rd, 2014
5 star pulling! The only thing that is a bit odd is that you end up standing in exactly the same spot on this and the 11d, but do much harder moves to get there on the 12c. I like the separate starts though and agree with the way it was bolted. Thanks Wheatley's!!!!
4
Cromper said on May 25th, 2015
What a good rock climb
5
Jeff said on November 16th, 2015
Tania replaced the 4 aluminum draws with Mikes Permies on Friday (11/13). If the old draws are yours, pm and I'll tell you where they are.
6
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2016
i know it says this route stays dry in a downpour, but can anyone confirm? please don't yell at me. i ask only because it seems like since the routes angle so far to the left the starts might get a bit wet (of this and the 11d).
7
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2016
Dry for dayz n dayz. The arch is overhanging in both dimensions.
8
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2016
thanks!
9
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2016
condensation for DAYZZ
10
512OW said on March 27th, 2016
Felt 12a-ish...? V4 start to 11b jugs.
11
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2016
haha saw the classic Hampton downgrade coming from a mile away! Nice!
12
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2016
Bullshit those are at least 11c jugs asshat
13
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2016
imo, once your ability level is way past a given grade you lose the ability to accurately grade that rock climb. it feels very, very different to you than it will to someone trying hard at that grade. moves that are hard for them you may not even notice. sections that are pumpy for them won't even register for you. this is especially the case at the red where developing resistance to the pump is crucial for many climbs. i should also say i'm guilty of this myself, so i'm not trying to shit talk anyone in particular. i just think less weight should be given to the opinions of crushers, however experienced. like, i would have no idea how to differentiate a 10a from a 10c at this point. none. i should also say that this rant is in no way related to singularity, as i have not been on it yet. carry on.
14
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2016
I can see where Kris is coming from, second time around this felt significantly easier. 12a might be a stretch though.
15
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2016
12b is probably fair. 12a is a stretch. It's kind of like 8133 with a harder start. Probably v4/5 to 11d. The opposing 12c in the cave feels a step up.
16
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2016
The opposing 12c is a piece of shit so the choss factor bumps it up a grade.
17
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2016
Yeah, that must be it.
18
Andrew said on March 30th, 2016
I am good with 12b, sounds like people are finding better beta.
19
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2016
aw man I better get on this quick
20
Cocoapuffs1000 said on March 30th, 2016
I also thought this felt easy for 12c. The start is definitely easier than V5
21
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2016
Are people cleaning this one on TR? Seem like a good candidate for a couple more PD's with the giant traverse at the top.
22
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2016
Sorry, last comment intended for "Lights Out"
23
Brentucky said on May 25th, 2016
The top "easy" half is definitely the hard part of sending this for me. Thank "insert deity, etc." for all those knee bars and especially the armbar up top! Bottom part to rest is probably V3/4, and then the featured climbing above is pure fun awesomeness, except that it kinda makes you want to puke. Fantastic route!
24
Sco Bro said on October 2nd, 2016
Brentucky, u should boulder more. Nothing V3 about the bottom.
25
Steve Tuttle said on November 4th, 2016
Bottom is no harder than V3. Awesome route but feels pretty easy for 12c.
26
Anonymous said on November 4th, 2016
probably easy 12b, maybe hard 12a, def not 12c (imo). but this all assumes you take the second no-hands (lay-down) rest. i've heard from people who did it without the second rest say 12c felt about right. and it makes sense to use the rest since your holds are literally six inches from the ledge you lay on. oh, awesome route!
27
Rusty said on November 13th, 2016
Mega classic 12b. Do it with no knee bars for bonus points !
28
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2016
i want to pause, collect my thoughts, choose just the perfect words and arrange their optimal sequence, to then share, and appreciate, all the thoughtful opinion that is going in to establish the grade of this rockclimb. it recalls the decades that went by with gung-ho being rated 12a until the enlightened egos of the second generation climbers and their elevated sensitivities reminded us how precious and perspicacious we had failed to be.
29
ray said on November 13th, 2016
Haha ego about a 5.12!? You do realize 5.15c is about to be a thing, right? 5.12 is the new 5.10. I don't think people get egotistical about 5.12 anymore.
30
climbhigh said on November 14th, 2016
5.10 is still an ego boost for me......that an knowing the dreamy guidebook author thinks of me often
31
Andrew said on January 15th, 2017
Can we finally drop the grade to 12b and all agree that the FA's did it in better style.
32
Anonymous said on January 15th, 2017
It's 12b even with your style points Andrew.
33
Willy said on March 10th, 2017
I second tucky's comment about the top of this making you feel like puking! Can't think of another route in the Red that has you hanging upside down this long.
34
sigrah said on November 9th, 2017
Thank you Andrew for bolting this gem! It was an absolute blast! The starting boulder problem of this route will go down as one of my favorite ever on a route. The icing on the cake is all the great climbing you have left!
35
Andrew said on November 10th, 2017
I want to make sure its clear that "Sigrah" is NOT an alternate account of mine that I use to post compliments to myself.
36
sigrah said on November 10th, 2017
I wish I had the same super powers of everyone else and could still tell the difference between 12b-12c and v3-v4. Regardless, I appreciate the 20 bucks you gave me to make that last post.