All Draws & No Brains

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Dain Bramage


1.
+1
1 votes

No Brain, No Pain 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Alan Prechtel, Steve Simpson in 2014
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just before leftmost end of cliff, locate a pocketed face 95 feet left of huge cave. Levitate to sharp starting holds, then work right to a corpulent flake. Paddle up a steep pocketed face to a ledge.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
bouldery (1) pockets (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.53 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (23 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 5th, 2014

Comments

1
Lander said on October 26th, 2014
Sketchy holds and possible ground fall going from first to second bolt. Recommend stick clipping second.
2
dustonian said on December 17th, 2014
Nice route. You guys need to place your anchor bolts a bit further apart in soft rock.
3
Catawaba said on March 31st, 2015
I second lander, will get better with time. We stick clipped the 2nd bolt
4
monty4355 said on April 5th, 2015
I thought the rock quality was great. Nice job cleaning. Sketchy to second bolt. Fun route!
5
Jackiefreesh said on May 15th, 2015
Should have read these comments first. I broke three holds while trying to get to the second bolt. Gave up the lead and just TR'd it.
6
climb2core said on July 25th, 2015
Good line, nothing broke today. All of these lines need to have bolt one higher, or at least bolt 2 closer.
7
amarius said on March 28th, 2016
First hanger is loose
8
climb2core said on March 28th, 2016
Did you try tightening it?