Dyslexics Untie!

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Chaos

Lithuanian Princess


6.
+0
0 votes

Swamp Gator 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2014
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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On the wall adjacent to Live with a Curse is this remarkable line marked by a large roof near the top. Reach high for jugs and make a big move to begin. Climb the face and arete to reach a nice stare down shake for the intimidating roof. As with most roofs you may need to grunt or scream a bit to flip your ass over that lip.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4.12 stars (26 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (25 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jun 11th, 2015

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Oct 29th, 2014

Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 27th, 2014

Comments

1
pigsteak said on October 27th, 2014
Im biased. I love this route.
2
Cocoapuffs1000 said on October 28th, 2014
A route this good deserves a better name (sorry Kipp!) Moves like this are rare at the Red.
3
pigsteak said on October 28th, 2014
Named for the sludge pit surrounding it cocoapuffs....
4
symardila said on November 9th, 2014
Fantástic line!
5
shadow.ayala said on March 26th, 2015
I hate this route. No.. I think I love this route. No.. I definitely hate this route. Actually.. I think I love this route. Harder than it looks from the ground. Pulling the lip is harder if you are tall. The coefficient of the knee is high!! ;)
6
Cromper said on April 2nd, 2015
Definitely a route you could do ten times and still have fun
7
whoneedsfeet said on October 12th, 2015
Three hard moves, fun every single move. I highly suggest this climb.
8
Anonymous said on April 24th, 2016
Crux bolt in the roof was on the verge of failure today. Needs immediate retightening with a 9/16" wrench
9
whatahutch said on November 23rd, 2016
Can someone share beta on this with me. I tried it, but didn't get it. Now, the line is stuck in my head. The beta through the roof starting from the big clipping jug below the roof would be nice. Also, Is it better to move up on the shelf for a no hands rest, or does it just make moving to the big clipping jug below the roof harder because you move off route and then have to get back on route through all that thin crap?
10
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2016
Under the roof I just remember a grabbing a couple undercling pinches and reaching for the jug. Cut feet, and swing up to the next horizontal.