Fuzzy Undercling

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

Gung Ho


10.
+0
0 votes

Tissue Tiger 5.12b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Phil Olenick in 1990
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located just left of Fuzzy Undercling. It is the second route from the right on the obvious overhanging pocketed wall. Climb through jugs and pockets then rest up for the high crux near the Africa shaped feature.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
pumpy (1) juggy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.56 stars (62 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (49 votes)

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Submitted by: Bgsand01
Date: Aug 28th, 2017

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 23rd, 2010

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jul 12th, 2007

Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2004
Can someone tell me if the crossing over and matching off the crimp is easier than using unseen rightside intermediate?
2
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2004
depends on who you are. Africa??? I thought it was India, oh well rock climbing, not geography. Just grab it and squeeze the heel out of it
3
Anonymous said on January 15th, 2005
1)Grab 2)Squeeze Got it, thanks
4
MSMITH said on August 13th, 2007
Awesome route, I really hope I send it.
5
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
This is an awesome line. A great sustained 5.12 on really good rock.
6
512OW said on October 17th, 2008
Sustained? Its 5.10 to one move...
7
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2008
Probably more like three moves. Let's not get carried away...
8
Lil Josh said on July 1st, 2009
Totally awesome climb!
9
climb2core said on March 7th, 2011
I counted... It was 4 hard moves for me, and I crossed into Africa. Also the rock was super polished, but somewhat better after taking a wire brush to it... I found the climb fun, but it was one of the more stellar lines IMO. Maybe it was the polished rock that didn't do it for me, or the fact that I didn't send.... ;)
10
climb2core said on March 7th, 2011
Ooops.. meant to say was NOT one of the more stellar lines...
11
aburgoon said on March 7th, 2011
I hope the wire brush comment was a joke.
12
pigsteak said on March 7th, 2011
yes, no wire brushes on long established climnbs.....
13
climb2core said on March 8th, 2011
Ok, I have climbed for over a decade and yet I am obviously admittedly ignorant. Yes, it was wire and it obviously not good climbing practice based upon above comments. Is this because of potential to wear away the sandstone with repetitive brushing? It is the first time I have taken a wire brush out at the Red and will not again. My apologies. Maybe Ray should mention this in his book (if it isn't already somewhere in there)
14
pigsteak said on March 8th, 2011
climb2core....yes, when you scrub the outer layer of the soft sandstone off, it is nothing but sand underneath. a stiff dental brush for dentures works really nice.
15
dustonian said on March 9th, 2011
Really shouldn't use a wire brush on any long-established climbs, RRG or elsewhere.
16
SCIN said on March 9th, 2011
I think we should tie climb2core up, strip him down, and have a gang of little people attack him with wire brushes.
17
climb2core said on March 10th, 2011
Ha Ha Ha... SCIN, sounds like you are projecting some of your personal fantasies about being tied up and ravaged by little men...
18
vertical1 said on April 15th, 2011
climb2core, no wonder the holds felt more positive this year than last. And I thought I was just getting stronger.
19
dustonian said on August 9th, 2014
Soon to have an even harder start than Fuzzy's eroded junkshow
20
brhe224 said on January 26th, 2015
Those feet are getting polished! Pulled a caribe and cut feet twice ;)
21
lena_chita said on November 28th, 2016
Can a 5-star climb ever get loved into a 1-star? I'm curios how many people who have done this climb in the first few years after it was bolted would give it 5 stars now, not from their memory of the climb, but after actually re-climbing it. I've tried this route about 6-7 years ago, didn't send then, but liked it a lot, and it was always on my mind as "should-go-back-to-it-someday". I'm pretty sure I had mentioned this route to a few people as a definite 5-star awesomeness. Coming back to it this weekend... Yuck! The ground has eroded the start into an extra crux, but oh well, that's not so bad... The feet are polished, but oh well... And then the actual crux, it is now a giant blotch of caked chalk a few feet wide and high... Not a 1-star climb yet, but I felt a distinct lack of desire to work it, thinking about how many other 12's in the gorge are way more enjoyable now.