The Friend Zone

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Darling Dirtbag


1b.
+0
0 votes

Tight Lipped 2 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Sarah Gross, Troy Davison in 2014
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Sport route right of The Friend Zone. Technical vertical face.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
technical (1) vertical (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

1 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.0 ( votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Climbgal
Date: Nov 12th, 2014

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 12th, 2014

Comments

1
Climbgal said on November 12th, 2014
Although most would consider this climb part of Bob Marley, it is really closer and easier to get to from the Chica Bonita crag. Simply hike as you would to Chica Bonita from the Drive By parking lot up the steep oil road. When you're at the top of the hill you'll come to a sign on your right that marks the Chica Bonita trail head. Instead of taking this trail, continue up the oil road another 100 yards or so and take a right on the next oil road. You'll go up another short hill and come to a clearing with an oil well near the cliff line. At this point you're very near the transition from Bob Marley into Chica Bonita. Continue left along the cliff line following a faint trail for about 75 yards. You'll run right into Tight Lipped and a few unnamed trad lines within a few minutes of easy hiking. You can also simply follow the cliff line once your at Chica Bonita to find a faint trail that takes you around the left corner of Chica Bonita and to this climb. It is only a few minutes and definitely worth a visit if you like technical, vertical climbing.
2
Andrew said on November 12th, 2014
Thats a good looking climb
3
crimpandpeel said on June 22nd, 2015
Really fun climb and stout movement after the 3rd bolt, I felt it was abit tougher than 11c, felt more like 11d/12a if you climb the bolt line straight up. Wankin out left makes it easier but you drift off line pretty quick and you still have to get back to clip, man up straight up and this route won't let you down
4
Anonymous said on February 13th, 2016
Tight Lipped 1 was so much better than the sequel
5
climb2core said on February 13th, 2016
ah, nothing like a cold week in February to bring the boredom trolls.
6
Anonymous said on February 13th, 2016
Given Troy's comments and the one star, it sounds like its misbolted. Given it's Troy' s route, that seems like a fair guess.
7
Anonymous said on February 13th, 2016
Tight Lipped 1 is so good it's banned in 27 countries
8
climb2core said on February 14th, 2016
Huh, I've climbed probably 20 of Troy's routes and bolting seemed spot on to me. What lines have you bolted and do actually think the trolls that vote one star have even seen the route?
9
Anonymous said on February 15th, 2016
only a wanker would bolt a contrived route and then give directions online how to climb it "like a man". masculinity issues Troy? while your lips are tightly around your ego, supersafeian's are tightly around your?
10
Anonymous said on February 15th, 2016
takes some fucking brains to reuse a route name at an area.
11
Anonymous said on February 16th, 2016
Heard that Troy is bolting on private property , he won't be shitting on any public/RRGCC climbs for awhile.
12
Anonymous said on February 16th, 2016
you mean "private"/federal property...