Sex Farm

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

Aquaduck Pocket


12a.
+0
0 votes

Gumby Unicorn 5.1 (Trad) *

First Ascent: Will Sweeney, Jimmy Hoctor in 2014
Length: 30ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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The awe inspiring left angling crack beginning beneath Aqueduct Pocket. This long standing project deemed too treacherous and mind blowing by many has finally been put to rest. The use of delicate smears, insecure jams and fairy dust is required to reach the summit of this futuristic King Line. Others claimed to have climbed the route prior to Hoctor and Sweeney's ascent but were obviously lying.
Moves: Magical
Descent: Rappel from tree or float down
Stays Dry: Ever and always
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
classic (2) scary (2) beautiful (2) runout (1) adventerous (1) technical (1) exposed (1) confusing (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.47 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.14d (16 votes)

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Submitted by: Steve Tuttle
Date: May 29th, 2017

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Apr 19th, 2017

Submitted by: djaverill
Date: Apr 20th, 2015

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Apr 2nd, 2015

Comments

1
XplosionOflaver said on April 1st, 2015
watch out! There are care bears hiding in them cracks!
2
brayackmedia said on April 2nd, 2015
5.3 all day long. Don't be such a sandbagger....
3
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
Yes! A revolutionary line that has stood the test of time and humbled many a suitor. Inspiring to say the least. Kudos to the conquerors! Jimbo-slice you have accomplished the feat of a lifetime.
4
climb2core said on April 2nd, 2015
No way did Dr. Rockso flash this. I call BS. Name your belayer
5
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
There is no way to get down! I am texting this now, trapped on the summit. If you are reading this, I need to be rescued... and bring some chocolate milk.
6
whoneedsfeet said on April 2nd, 2015
I'm pretty sure I left a pbr and half a doober up by the tree Anon. Hopefully somebody will sack up and save you soon.
7
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
Solo Yolo. -Dr Rockso
8
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
i'd pay per view to watch the link up to sex farm.
9
Willy said on April 2nd, 2015
Rumor has it Scotty Curran has been drinking for weeks to train and gather materials to lead this using crushed PBR tall boys as pro. Next level bra
10
djaverill said on April 20th, 2015
Tried to put this Kentucky hard man line down last summer. It proved to be far too heady and technical. I've sent many 5.2 climbs (even some onsight) but this 5.1 was just too hard. Congrats on the FA!
11
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2016
I'm headed to the red this weekend from Cleveland, OH. Looking for a good first trad lead. Looks like it may rain a bit. Does this route stay dry in the rain? Also, if it is a bit wet, will it still be climbable? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
12
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2016
Should be dry, this thing overhangs like 30 ft.
13
Chiyram said on May 20th, 2016
Ray, grade consensus is 14c. I think it's time to update the official grade.
14
vertical1 said on October 6th, 2016
Beautiful line! Worth the wait on a busy day to get on this thing!
15
Anonymous said on October 6th, 2016
I heard Sasha Di Grey is going for the FFA for Team Red Ball this fall!
16
whoneedsfeet said on October 11th, 2016
I saw sachsa magillacutty working out the moves on top rope the other seems like she's still a mile away.
17
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2016
not surprised, no way a girl could climb this
18
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2017
Added a rappel ring at the bomber anchor tree, as the walk off probably deterred many climbers. Hopefully this will help increase route exposure. Next on the list is cleaning it out, it's super dicey at points because of filled in dirt
19
Steve Tuttle said on May 29th, 2017
Hannah FFA 5-29-2017 Arie FDA 5-29-2017 (unless first female dog counts as FFA?)
20
dustonian said on May 30th, 2017
Looks like the dog was first, no credit for Hannah sorry