Short by a Foot

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Bottle Infrontome


1b.
+0
0 votes

Starry Night 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney in 2016
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Crazy-steep line with permadraws just past the choss arch right of Dain Bramage. A mellow intro gains extrance to mega-pumpy jug reefing.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
shady (1) steep (1) dynamic (1) juggy (1) beautiful (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.18 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (28 votes)

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Submitted by: Willy
Date: Apr 7th, 2016

Comments

1
shadow.ayala said on April 10th, 2016
I was going to bolt this years ago. Glad to see it get done. Can't wait to ride it.
2
dustonian said on April 10th, 2016
It was years ago when I started bolting it haha. Still a cool harder one to the right if anyone wants it... probably even share the anchor with this one
3
Willy said on April 11th, 2016
Has all the ingredients to be popular. Big moves, steep rock, permadraws, and a short hike to reach it. Surprisingly clean and solid as well for a new route.
4
DrRockso said on September 18th, 2016
Fun route, bring a brush to help clean the remaining sand off. Exercise caution going from 3 to 4 after the bat hang rest, falling wrong in this section can send you head first into the wall like my partner.
5
pumpout2004 said on October 9th, 2016
Super fun! Permas make this a real treat. Clean and generally choss free now.
6
slander said on October 16th, 2016
This will be five stars once it cleans up a bit more. Great movement. One of the steepest routes I've ever been on
7
lena_chita said on June 5th, 2017
Great for a hot-weather climbing day. Fully in the shade, and not a single "condition-dependent hold" on it.
8
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2017
a couple friends climbed this the other day and said bolts 3 and 4 were in bad shape. said that tightening them down probably wouldn't help. said something about a nut behind the hanger. i witnessed bolt 3 wobble with a flick of the rope. will report elsewhere, but figured i'd mention it here in case someone who knows what they're doing reads this.
9
Willy said on June 5th, 2017
A nut behind the hanger? Wtf. Bolts are pretty much new and stainless, Id bet money they just need tightening.
10
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2017
could totally be the case. i got sketched out and didn't go up it, haha. just thought it warranted comment. if i make it back out there w/ a wrench soon i'll take a look.
11
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2017
Probably a good idea to delay getting in this one unless you plan on being the one to inspect and maintain the bolts first.
12
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2017
Umm, that should be every climber on every route. (Inspect and maintain = try to tighten loose bolts you encounter.). This being a new SS route, almost guarantees it just needs a wrench on it. Ian
13
Cromper said on August 7th, 2017
Pretty amazing climb.
14
Anonymous said on October 28th, 2017
Great route, countless knee bars and better than I expected. 4stars, but did not feel any harder than air ride equipped. I think it's low 11 Joe Zatek
15
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2017
substantially harder than ARE but nice spray effort lol