Into the arms of the rhododendron

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

Days of Rage


32.
+2
2 votes

Bedtime for Bonzo 5.6 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: George Robinson, Martin Hackworth in 1983
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk around the left end of the wall past The Turret until the trail meets back up with the wall again. Spot the obvious left-facing dihedral directly in front of a small tree. Climb the ramp (5.4) to a large ledge and belay from bolts. Walk to the right and through a hallway to the base of the second pitch. Climb the right-facing dihedral to a hand ledge. Traverse across the hand ledge to a right-angling fist crack. Climb this to the top.
Moves: Fists
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
exposed (2) beautiful (2) fists (2) hands (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.48 stars (129 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (105 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: [email protected]
Date: Apr 27th, 2017

Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: May 26th, 2015

Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: May 26th, 2015

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Aug 25th, 2013

Submitted by: milspecmark
Date: Jul 19th, 2010

Submitted by: Dman
Date: Feb 4th, 2009

Submitted by: AdSprad
Date: Nov 11th, 2008

Submitted by: AdSprad
Date: Nov 11th, 2008

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: Jul 10th, 2006

Submitted by: corduroy
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
t bone said on January 16th, 2003
i onsight soloed this route in 1987
2
Anonymous said on February 10th, 2003
IN FEBRUARY 1999 TWO OTHERS AND I FREED THIS AND THEN SET UP ATYROLEAN TRAVERSE TO THE TOP OF THE TURRET. PROBABLE FIRST TRAVERSE ASCENT.AS PROOF NOTE THE BROKEN LIMB ON THE LARGE PINE. RQ
3
slacker said on March 25th, 2003
best in the red
4
strum said on March 31st, 2003
this is my favriot climb in the red
5
vic said on August 12th, 2003
Another great route for the red. The second pitch is a questionable 5.6 but nice exposure - and a great view.
6
rickardodaniel said on October 26th, 2004
2nd pitch is so sweet, the exposure is nice
7
Ian said on May 24th, 2005
Can easily rap with a single rope. An extra #3 cam is nice for the second pitch. Fun climb, nice view at the top.
8
Anonymous said on February 5th, 2006
I led the first accent of this route on June 6, 1983, and rock stud Martin Hackworth seconded. After climbing all the routes on the front side of Fortress, I and others started exploring the back side, and I got interested in whether the short first pitch might reveal a route to the top of the cliff. We did the first accent of The Turret on the same day. Glad to see that people are still enjoying this fine climb. The second pitch was quite nice. I was really glad to have a big #11 hex chock to throw into the crack near the top. Martin and I debated the grade. He thought it was a 5.6. On the lead, I thought it felt like 5.7. As Martin was authoring a new Red River Gorge climbing guide at the time (Stones of Years), his assessment went into the guide. On return visits, it felt a bit easier. George Robinson
9
Anonymous said on May 21st, 2006
Soloed this route yesterday, had a blast.
10
Paul3eb said on October 2nd, 2006
great route.. the view lives up to the hype. pick a nice day for this one and it'll be memorable..
11
Josephine said on June 11th, 2007
the stone on the 2nd pitch with the "X" has been knocked off. was a neat route for my first multi pitch experience.
12
dbarless said on July 25th, 2007
The second pitch is the money pitch!!!! The exposure is amazing, and the view from the top out is hard to beat!!!! A truly great climb, not sure if I can call it a classic, but definitely memorable!!!!
13
rrgclimber said on September 16th, 2007
one of the best multi-pitch climbs in the gorge. great exposure. the view is awesome
14
p0bray01 said on November 26th, 2007
That Poor Tree...lol Other than that...fun route!
15
Papatrad said on March 26th, 2008
Climbed as second. Great route. Wonderful view. One of the best in RRG
16
tunedvwgti said on April 18th, 2008
Wow! The fist crack on the second pitch felt MUCH harder than the graded 5.6! I have climbied 5.10 sport routes that felt a lot easier than that one. This is my second year leading Trad and so I am not as confident, but it is still harder than a 5.6 in my opinion. AMAZING view up top. In the fist crack near the top, there is a cam stuck in the crack, but it wouldn't budge one bit! It makes for useful protection, since that was the absolute crux of the climb for me, and I was shaking like a little kid!
17
512OW said on April 18th, 2008
You were definitely doing it wrong.
18
CLIMBTRAD said on June 26th, 2008
Very cool route. We put a tube on top to see all who have climbed. it was cool to read everyones comm,and to see how many time those bolts have been used.84 climbers had signed,from march till june.We took the first the first book home because it was full and put a new one in.Then june 6 it was gone. The whole thing someone stole it and the good snaplinks and the webbing.thay left some old rusty links.It was cool while it lasted.Maybe i will do it again maybe not.If their is a way to download the first notebook please help.
19
norris said on October 17th, 2008
made my panties wet.
20
goosey said on October 23rd, 2008
My introduction to trad climbing...lots of fun!
21
saxfiend said on October 28th, 2008
Great line, my first trad lead in RRG.
22
AdSprad said on November 8th, 2008
Whew, the exposed portions of this climb are thrilling. It was windy and man that second tier hallway was cold...so bundle up on a windy day! Thanks for the prize at the top, I did not expect that and will bring a new one on my next ascent =)
23
Dman said on December 30th, 2008
great route one of my first climbs
24
Dman said on February 4th, 2009
pic up top is 7 year old boy at top of first picth great to climb at night he had a great time
25
Koebs said on March 31st, 2009
Classic Red trad. A must do for everyone. Great exposure!
26
Curmudgeon said on June 28th, 2009
I have a video of this that we did on one of the anniversaries of George's and Martin's ascent. It includes the rifle shots from below.
27
Trey Maserang said on August 17th, 2009
climbed it today 2 very big copper head snakes at the base on the first pitch in the crack with the tree roots coming out of it. stay clear of them there at least 4 foot long each.
28
Buzz said on September 2nd, 2009
Great view at the top.
29
jrathfon said on November 24th, 2009
very nice, perfect rack, even if you sew it up: single 0.4-0.5 doubles 0.75-2, single 3, 5 slings.
30
Bluelopez100 said on February 7th, 2010
My favorite climb in the "Red". This was my first multi-pitch trad route. When we did it it was cold and very windy! It was sorta epic, so I hold this route very dear. The first pitch was easy. The second pitch was awesome! Great exposure and view! Recommend this to any trad climber, regardless of climbing skill.
31
milspecmark said on July 19th, 2010
Popped the question to my girlfriend at the top and got engaged. What a view and a very memorable climb.
32
Yasmeen said on August 19th, 2011
Thumbs up if you came here to see the cool engagement picture mentioned in the 6 weeks til October thread! Oh wait, this isn't Youtube...
33
rjackson said on January 31st, 2012
Yep, one of the best views...
34
Willy said on March 2nd, 2012
Tried to climb this and catch the sunset. Ended up climbing it in the dark by headlamp and pitching a hammock at the top. Still a good time but missed out on the view
35
jenbongo said on May 1st, 2012
I thought the start of the first pitch was as hard as the top of the second pitch - both 5.7. There's a trail at the top; you can walk the entire cliffline - very cool!
36
pdpcardsfan said on July 30th, 2013
Definitely take the scramble down left to the end of the 1st pitch to rap down. Cairn marks the scramble. If not good luck pulling your rope.
37
Roger said on September 23rd, 2013
On 9/20/13 there was a copper head at the start of the big crack on the second pitch. Be careful
38
gritstone said on October 14th, 2013
Tough opening moves if you decide to spare the tree ;)
39
tpowell said on March 19th, 2014
If only the second pitch were longer.
40
Reambo said on October 20th, 2014
there are anchors at the top, 60 meter rope worked fine for the rap
41
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2015
The beginning doesn't have to be too hard but can be made so easily. Get a high right foot and rock up onto it.
42
WDW4 said on April 6th, 2015
My trusty, 2 year old, brown Tricam is just waiting for someone to claim it, near the top of the first pitch. This tricam has gripped stone in Colorado, California, Tennessee, NC, and Kentucky, and is guaranteed to make you climb better (but not necessarily clean better). Follower couldn't clean it, so I lowered down and spent 10 minutes using all my tried-and-true techniques, alas to no avail. I'm pretty confident a wee hammer and a long and beefy screwdriver could get it out, but I live 7 hours away and won't be back for a while, so it is there for whoever wants it.
43
Anonymous said on December 31st, 2015
New anchors as of today.
44
Anonymous said on January 1st, 2016
I heard Hal and Johnny left some dirty undies on the second pitch
45
jnolte said on May 14th, 2016
5 spinners on top.
46
DrRockso said on April 5th, 2017
Someone with a handsaw and a bit of time would do good cutting the tree up that has fallen over the second pitch.
47
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2017
wow somebody is trying to be hal jr
48
tunedvwgti said on June 7th, 2017
Took my friend to lead his fist trad climb here on Bedtime Saturday... Proceeded to do great with the exception of getting a brand new cam stuck in the crack on the second pitch. Someone is gonna score if they can get it out... We rapped down but couldn't get it to budge.
49
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2017
Let the treasure hunt begin.
50
stewdster said on June 28th, 2017
There is a large dead pine tree that has fallen over the hallway of the second pitch. It is precariously perched on a few branches. If it gives it will be falling directly on the belay area of pitch 2, and possibly on the climber depending on how far up pitch 2 they are.
51
Anonymous said on June 28th, 2017
Refer to post on April 5th and do something about it.
52
rappm said on October 23rd, 2017
Thanks to whoever that trimmed up the tree on the second pitch. Nice work!