The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Phantasia

Twinkie


1.
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Creature Feature 5.9+ (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kevin Pogue, Elisa Weinman Pogue in 1991
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the firt route encountered from the end of the approach trail. Look for a plated face with a roof about 20 feet up. Climb up to the ledge beneath the roof, pull the lip and continue to the top on jugs.
Second pitch continues from the anchors to the top making use of natural pro.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
fun (3) juggy (2) vertical (1)
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4.09 stars (203 votes)
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5.9 (166 votes)

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Submitted by: tylerscott89
Date: Mar 28th, 2017

Submitted by: tylerscott89
Date: Mar 28th, 2017

Submitted by: tylerscott89
Date: Mar 28th, 2017

Submitted by: jnolte
Date: Oct 25th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 19th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 19th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 19th, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 13th, 2012

Submitted by: jfc1005
Date: Jan 29th, 2011

Submitted by: Trey Maserang
Date: Oct 19th, 2009

Submitted by: Trey Maserang
Date: Oct 19th, 2009

Submitted by: rokjunki
Date: Sep 2nd, 2007

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Wicked Tribe said on September 18th, 2003
This was my first route on a rope.
2
sigs2001 said on October 9th, 2003
sweet beginning, jug your way to the top....fun route!
3
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2004
definately a ultra classic route - I love the huge plate at the chains. you can shove your entire arm behind it. now that's a jug!
4
Zspider said on August 3rd, 2004
Loved it! After being away from climbing for 5 years, this was the route that I picked to get back into sport climbing. Don't get dizzy and fall while clipping the second bolt. My guess is it's a grounder.
5
keith_b00ne said on September 14th, 2004
This route is easy, but looks very impressive from the ground.
6
EverythignElse said on March 14th, 2005
very frustrating when water is porring of the top, but still good time
7
sportclmbr84 said on April 25th, 2005
This was the very first route I climbed at the Gorge and it was at 1am!! It was so much fun though. I think you should try climbing it at night, a blast!
8
docpolecat said on July 5th, 2005
I agree fun route even in the dark. My first time on it was in the dark as well.
9
ReachHigh said on August 1st, 2005
Great Jug haul. well bolted and very safe with a fun start.
10
bryanboonern said on September 3rd, 2005
I love this route. I climbed this route the first day ever outside and try to revisit often.
11
K-Dawg said on September 28th, 2005
This wall is so user friendly that it actually grabs your hands for you. If you have an issue with the beginning, keep going, it will be worth it.
12
Captain Bad Beta said on September 30th, 2005
The route is really one one or two moves to get over the lip but it is worth doing. I don't think I have ever been on this route when it was dry (at the top) but the holds are big up there so it doesn't really matter.
13
dancingkornelius said on October 12th, 2005
super fun easy climb
14
caribe said on March 7th, 2006
This route has an interesting learning curve. The beginning look a little patience before I was not relying on my inner geko to make it. There are a relatively effortless series of moves that I hit upon after climbing it 3 consecutive times. Reaching up and around blindly while on lead was 'fun'. Another schooling in the praxis of faith climbing, a option that does not sit well with someone as blatantly atheistic as I am.
15
ElectricDisciple said on June 29th, 2006
Finally Pulled the roof. Sometimes technique doesn't get you there, brute force/strength does.
16
rokjunki said on September 2nd, 2007
my first official lead , tricky start ,but gained alot of confidence.
17
sidda323 said on November 2nd, 2007
Never having climbed before I took this route on my first weekend out. I agree that it has a tricky start (for a beginner, at least) but I too gained more confidence and would love to go back now and try it again.
18
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2007
my first time at the wall and i sent at the bottom of the close to nothing roof was a little silly but there is a money jug there jug haul after that move
19
Lander said on December 4th, 2007
Caribe, you will learn to have faith. I don't know how many times, climbing in the Red, I've reached blindly only to find a good hold just within reach. It's quite astounding. Anymore, when in doubt, I bring up feet, then look for handholds. It usually works.
20
Buzz said on June 17th, 2008
Getting to the ledge is the hardest. Once you clear the roof easy climbing.
21
Peng said on September 2nd, 2008
Climbed this on 08/29/08 and found 2 pieces of gear left at the anchor. I'll gladly get this back to the owner. PM me with description of what they are.
22
512OW said on September 2nd, 2008
What in the hell is wrong with you? You're messin up the universal laws of booty. I've seen alot of these type shenanigans lately. I don't care if its my girlfriends gear... I'm keepin it. Its booty. Thats the rules... no give-backs. Get it straight.
23
Peng said on September 4th, 2008
Even universal laws evolve when they don't make no sense no more (see: Newtonian physics for an astounding example), and it makes no sense for me to keep 2 brand name pieces of gear that cost an arm and a leg to replace, perfectly functioning for the owners, that I'll never ever use (because I have plenty of the same exact gear, hence I know how much they cost) etc. etc. you know where I'm getting at. Universal law or not, I'm getting them gears back to them owners if PMed with the right descriptions. You rock jocks don't never want to climb with me anyways and so, I'm not afraid of provoking your wrath. :-)
24
pawilkes said on September 5th, 2008
for once i agree with Odub. i pulled a nice auto-locker off the second bolt of this thing a few weeks ago. if no one in your group can fall up a 5.9, i am kinda wondering what the hell you're doing outside. as for the other gear, sounds like someone doesn't know how to clean an anchor
25
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2008
Someone once told me that the reason why there are hardly any easy sport routes in the RRG is because people bolt for their own climbing, ie. it is not a conscious collective elitist effort to keep gumbies from climbing outside. I'm not sure I agree. Either way, gumbies have no choice but to get in over their heads and "get there" through sheer persistence. This also generates a lot of gumby-boasting/lying-to-get-respect behavior, which is really pathetic. I just think that we should all be more compasionate (but we are not), which would make the climbing scene a lot nicer.
26
ditzywonder said on October 28th, 2008
this route pissed me the hell off and i am permanently renaming it the devils route in my head. i am short. roofs suck, and i dont care how easy it is. okay.....maybe reason will get to me someday, but i am having nightmares right now.
27
AdSprad said on November 2nd, 2008
Creature Feature beat me the first day I tried it, only to come back another day and tame the beast.
28
Dman said on December 3rd, 2008
nice route
29
unknown climber said on December 18th, 2008
Great start, should of pulled the rope to make it a clean lead
30
towermasterhand said on May 3rd, 2009
loved this route it is by far my favorite
31
Barnacle Ben said on August 23rd, 2009
Pulling the roof was fun to do and fun to watch. Insanely easy but enjoyable after that.
32
Bluelopez100 said on February 7th, 2010
This route is one of my favorite sport climbs in the "Red". If you like jugs this route is for you.
33
Rooky said on August 21st, 2011
First few bolts made me think a bit. Pulling over that roof...whoo-eee that was awesome. What a reward after you get over the lip...all the way to the anchors!
34
pdpcardsfan said on October 15th, 2011
lead it in the dark with headlamps. badass.
35
nik said on May 7th, 2012
not trying to trash the route (as if that would matter -- "look dude, no feet!!!")...but, pogue ethics is just down the way! seriously, though, you climb a bit of slab/vert to a ledge, reach up above your head to pull a roof, and then walk up a ladder to the anchors. also, if it's wet and dripping up top don't let it deter you...so easy up there that it won't matter.
36
Enoch309 said on July 29th, 2012
Anchor rap rings are worn half way through. Climbing on your own gear and rapping off would be a smart idea. The rap rings have got to be seriously weaker than they should be.
37
Anonymous said on September 17th, 2012
Agreed on the anchor rings - they are worn half through in 2 places from people top roping / lowering off. Make sure to bring a couple of longer draws and clip direct to the bolts at the anchor (not the rings). Threading your rope through the quick links above the rap rings and rappelling when you clean would be a good idea.
38
dustonian said on September 17th, 2012
an even better idea would be spending a few bucks at the hardware store and replacing the gear out of the goodness of your heart
39
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2012
True, unless perhaps they don't know how to do it safely?
40
philipandrewguyriley said on September 18th, 2012
Hardware store? You would trust other people's lives to hardware store gear?
41
dustonian said on September 18th, 2012
Doesn't matter where you buy the quicklinks if they are rated appropriately. I recommend 3/8" or 1/2" for the rope end on a route this popular, stainless if you really wanna do it right.
42
pigsteak said on September 18th, 2012
had to laugh there...since 99% of the bolts in the Red were indeed bought at a hardware store......sorry bubbs.
43
philipandrewguyriley said on September 18th, 2012
Totally true and I agree, a lot of bolts are from the hardware store, but that doesn't mean we should keep replacing them with the same thing. A lot of replacement bolting is being done with stainless glue ins (like Pogue Ethics around the corner)designed for climbing, or stainless power bolts. On routes that get heaps of traffic, the idea is to upgrade to better materials so they last. A fixe stainless rap ring is rated to 50kN and only costs 6 bucks - given that lowering off is pretty common at the red I am just suggesting it might be worth the extra safety margin...
44
climb2core said on September 18th, 2012
"Hardware store? You would trust other people's lives to hardware store gear?" and then... "Totally true and I agree, a lot of bolts are from the hardware store" LOL, nice try philipblahblahblah... I ain't buying your poor attempt to take the foot out of your mouth.
45
dustonian said on September 18th, 2012
Yes, you are right about using better gear such as the stainless bolts Patrick Miller and I put on Pogue and many other routes. However, a Fixe rap ring does not stand up well to the abuse of routes that get toproped to death like this one. The standard for exceedingly popular routes like this (as well as the new anchors I just put on King Me, Left Flank, and several popular moderate routes at Muir on Saturday's trail day) should be 1/2" quicklinks due to the material thickness--more than double a steel ring. You should also keep in mind that you use a quicklink regardless to attach the ring to the hanger, so you are not eliminating quicklinks from the system by using a ring. Ultimately, tensile strength is not as important as bulk material thickness when it comes to sandy ropes repeatedly grinding through a skinny ring under body weight. That said, it is important to use rate PE-rated quicklinks, 3/8" or above.
46
dustonian said on September 18th, 2012
I'm not sure if I would call Kwikset a hardware store exactly, but it's true there are a lot of junky bolts floating around out there. As a matter of fact I just replaced the original bolts on Deep Six at Global Village... 3/8" Redhead wedge bolts, no joke!!
47
philipandrewguyriley said on September 18th, 2012
Thanks dustonian, good to know, and thank you for your work maintaining so many routes! So is the standard to thread the rope through the thicker quicklink on routes and not replace or use the worn rap rings at all? Just go for the thickest rated stainless links you can find and remove a potential additional point of failure by leaving off the rap ring?
48
dustonian said on September 18th, 2012
I wouldn't say there's a "standard" exactly, but I feel that is the best long-term solution for the sandy rope problem. You will need a smaller quicklink for the "hanger end," usually either 3/8" or 5/16", and then the nice big beefy 1/2" on the rope end for very popular routes like this (with chain in between as needed to equalize the bottom links). It's better to remove the worn-out gear if you can, ideally there is a quicklink you can open with a crescent wrench and a lever to oppose the force (I have been using an angle grinder or else swapping out the hangers out lately, but that's pretty involved). Also, it's always best to orient your quicklinks "down" so they are tightening with gravity rather than loosening. Finally, yes, stainless is great if you can afford it, but in 1/2" and 3/8" size the quicklinks will be inordinately expensive.
49
KhaoticKlimber said on October 9th, 2016
I would have to say, the slippery slopes of the beginning out-crux the roof. Pulling the roof may require a few tries to master, but the great holds allow you to use your momentum to get those feet up for some sweet heel hooks. If you're not a midget like me, be smart, reach out and clip into the bolt directly above the roof. Otherwise, accept your shortcomings, nut up, pull the roof, and skip said bolt. Don't worry though, it's 5.6 climbing from here. More awesome holds than you could ever think was possible.