In the Light

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

Moonbeam


2.
+0
0 votes

Sunshine 5.9+ (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Steve Cater in 1991
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the route directly left of In The Light.
Moves: Slopers
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.12 stars (137 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (104 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Meadows said on December 29th, 2003
I don't like the placement of the last bolt ... should be higher.
2
ender_xx said on May 27th, 2004
A little runout never hurt anyone
3
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2004
I agree about the last bolt thing...
4
Anonymous said on June 29th, 2004
LOVED IT!!!!! good for small hands!
5
ender_xx said on August 31st, 2004
if the bolt was higher, you'd hit the no hands rest ledge if you fell from the anchors. With the bolt where it is, you'd fall farther, but to a better spot with less chance of ankle damage
6
Zspider said on October 3rd, 2004
An opposing thumb to add pinch to some of the holds helps a lot. Fight with Moonbeam climbers over the no-hands stance. Thanks to whoever put the tic marks from the last bolt to the anchors. I wouldn't have got a redpoint without them.
7
diggum said on March 21st, 2005
Lot of fun. Nice intro to overhangs.
8
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
I found this route to be a little pumpy... that's just me though.
9
dancingkornelius said on October 12th, 2005
sunshine and Moonbeam both suck. very poor quality routes
10
pigsteak said on April 9th, 2006
both suck. agreed.
11
dbarless said on May 21st, 2007
Yeah, sunshine and moonbeams are a couple of the biggest choss heaps in the Gorge, but who cares? Climbing them is better than trying to climb the corporate ladder. I can climb most 10s and found both of these routes to be a little on the pumpy side, only because of the slight overhang....
12
clattin1 said on July 26th, 2007
I was a bit disappointed with this climb. I would definitely agree that it's pumpy. Many of the pockets promise more than they deliver! And the huge amounts of chalk smeared all over everything (even poor holds) can lead you astray...
13
MSMITH said on September 6th, 2007
Shitty route, but what else is there to warm up on?
14
Meringue said on March 6th, 2008
a little harder than it looks. Not much tho
15
Buzz said on June 28th, 2008
pumpy route
16
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
This is a pretty fun route that's definitely harder then it's rated if you don't find the right holds but easy if you do. It's all about picking the right options when you have so many at every move.
17
unknown climber said on December 18th, 2008
Make sure if it's cold your finger tips are ready for the anchor's, my hands went num and simultaneously started losing grip (scary man)
18
Dman said on January 9th, 2009
nice very fun warm up
19
DHB said on April 9th, 2009
the "pipe" about halfway up is loose and ready to come off. Watch out
20
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2009
There must be some easy beta that I could not find. I give this route a 3 star 10a rating. The uy behind me climbed fuzy hunder cling no problem then fell on this.
21
gripster said on October 21st, 2009
every time i have ever tried this route it has been cold and I have been tired. therefore it has always felt like the hardest 5.9 in the gorge.
22
gheib said on May 10th, 2010
I enjoyed the runout at the top. Granted I did the 10c right next to it before this one so the head space was right where it needed to be...all the hold were there and the ledge was a great spot to rest on before continuing.
23
deamicl said on February 14th, 2011
Both Sunshine and Moon beam suuuuuuuuucckkk
24
KifuCoffeeRoaster said on January 25th, 2012
Agree with clattin1.
25
nik said on May 7th, 2012
these two 9's don't suck (imo), but they're not my favs either. fairly pumpy for the grade.
26
Wes said on October 8th, 2012
The route I miss more then the 12's or 13's
27
ritzdawg said on October 8th, 2012
I'm a new climber so my input is probably not that important but I will say I can usually lead 5.9 and 5.9+ routes without much trouble. This route however gave me a lot of fight and seemed a lot harder than the other 5.9's i have done. Even harder than some 5.10a's i have done. So for new climbers that usually bust out 5.9s save some energy for this route!