Out On a Limb

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

Silently Does the Sun Shine


9.
+2
2 votes

King Me 5.11b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula in 1990
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This bolted route starts beneath a roof near the right side of the face and to the right of Out On a Limb. Grab the high first holds and climb through a steep overhang to gain the slightly overhanging face. Move through pockets and sidepulls to an undercling crux. Continue up the final slab to the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
pumpy (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.78 stars (82 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (62 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 11th, 2013

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Dec 6th, 2008

Submitted by: bcrock
Date: Dec 30th, 2005

Comments

1
young'n climber said on April 20th, 2004
Ever notice, theres a picture of this climb on how to climb 5.12 by falcon books, yet its an 11?
2
Anonymous said on May 4th, 2004
wow, you don't say.
3
Anonymous said on August 2nd, 2004
its mandatory that you climb King Me before you can climb 5.12. every 5.12+ climber in the world has done it (Kauk, Speed, Sharma, Koyomada, Litz) and if you work hard... one day you will too!!
4
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2004
one of the best in the red, it just keeps going and going and it is so varied
5
Stewy911 said on February 6th, 2005
sharma has climbed this route? huh
6
Meadows said on March 7th, 2005
I did a .12 before this route. =) I think this is one of my favorites!
7
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2006
Anchor bolts are spinning. Beware.
8
512OW said on September 5th, 2006
The fixed "carabiners" at the top are worn over halfway through. DO NOT Lower off of them. TR on your own draws and rap off the rings. This anchor setup is incredibly dumb. Somebody should switch the current hanger/ring/fixed biner setup with hanger/2 quicklinks. In fact, I will, shortly.
9
jlu said on October 19th, 2006
great route, but pretty powerful if you hit it after 3 others in this area
10
woman said on April 24th, 2007
I love this route! New fixed carabiners at the top, so the dumb anchor system goes on....use your own draws to TR please!
11
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2007
One of the most high quality .11's in the Gorge. This wall is amazing. Old school and bad ass lines abound.
12
Hayleywatts said on April 30th, 2008
Such a great route. One of my favorites.
13
rjackson said on November 24th, 2008
Make sure you're fresh for the send, though it's easily broken down into manageable sections with good rests. Should be on every sport climber's list. Five star classic.
14
mpittdawg said on June 1st, 2009
I think the person that gave this route 3 stars needs to get checked out. This is one of the best in the Gorge!
15
jenbongo said on October 19th, 2009
The fixed anchor 'biners are worn halfway through again. Are people TR-ing off them or just lowering instead of rappelling?
16
pigsteak said on October 20th, 2009
did you at least take one off your last draw and replace one of them?
17
gripster said on October 21st, 2009
this route is so great. i thought the crux would just be the pump when i saw the route start to slab over at the top, and then I found the crux...get on this route!
18
KQUINN said on September 27th, 2010
Climb this route saturday, all i have to say is QUIT TOP ROPING ON FIXED GEAR ANCHORS!!!
19
dustonian said on September 27th, 2010
Quite an assumption... wear could just as easily be from repeated lowering and cleaning on a route this old.
20
bad_ass said on November 5th, 2010
awesome route. i'm sure some people tr on the fixed anchors but it's probably just from the massive gang-banging this climb has received every weekend this fall. left anchor bolt is kinda sketch too.
21
said on November 6th, 2010
This route is perfectly easy to clean on rappel. I don't think lowering is much of an excuse.
22
climb2core said on November 27th, 2011
Great climb with nice variety of movement. Only thing detracting from the climb was extreme amount of chalk on it, wish I could power wash it :)
23
dustonian said on August 13th, 2012
New stainless steel anchor and first bolt (finally). The old one snapped with less than a quarter turn, yikes!! Thanks to Climbing magazine/Petzl Anchor Replacement Initiative for the hardware.