Whiteout Direct

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Emerald City

Sharp


9.
+4
4 votes

No Place Like Home 5.11c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Jim Link, Jamie Baker in 1992
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the obvious arete visible from the road to the left of Whiteout. Begin by climbing Whiteout then move to an alcove beneath an overhang. Continue up the arete to some anchors.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
sunny (1) beautiful (1) classic (1) vertical (1) exposed (1) arete (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.83 stars (88 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (64 votes)

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Submitted by: MikeWilkinson
Date: Nov 6th, 2017

Submitted by: shadow.ayala
Date: Jul 14th, 2014

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
captain static said on May 10th, 2004
Since this route is visible from the road, it is suprising that more people haven't climbed it. Especially since it is such a classic line and has both great moves and exposure.
2
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2004
CLASSIC CLASSIC CLASSIC, one more time CLASSIC. top it out fotr one of the BEST veiws
3
Wes said on May 30th, 2005
Must do for the grade.
4
Sco Bro said on October 19th, 2005
If you haven't been on this climb then you're missing out. . . big time.
5
Stewy911 said on October 19th, 2005
THIS CLIMB RULZ. Don't f'up the clip though! alil spicy too lead but its a must do.
6
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
an unbeatable view and CLASSiC climb! very doable for the 5.11c grade, more adrenaline than anything just seeing where you are on the wall! I recommend making it a multi-pitch climb.... get you and your belayer up to the anchors on Whiteout, then boulder to the left to the first bolt. and bring a camera up to the top!
7
Astroman said on November 29th, 2005
One of the best.
8
merrick said on December 6th, 2005
This thing is awesome. the exposure and spicyness alone make it worth doing and the moves are fun too. nice 35 foot run out to the first bolt. it gets your head in gear for the rest. beautiful climb!
9
Anonymous said on July 23rd, 2007
the best view i've come across.. (easy topout/downclimb). can belay from the ground w/ a 60m rope.
10
woman said on September 17th, 2007
Feels like the desert! Loved it!
11
Nick said on March 9th, 2009
One of the best routes ive ever done. Awsome exposure and an amazing view. Topped it out right at sundown.
12
mike_anderson said on April 5th, 2009
The rating seems quite soft to me, probably a consequence of the exposure. There was one tricky spot, with the rest positive holds and good feet. There were a couple runout spots, but I found the hard moves well protected, and no difficult clips. Great route, worth the hike.
13
Lil Josh said on August 12th, 2009
Great route if you enjoy having a blast while climbing. ;)
14
dustonian said on October 5th, 2009
Bitchin'!!!
15
crayon said on November 11th, 2009
A must do.
16
DonnyP said on December 21st, 2010
Great route, as everyone has said, but how is the best way to start it? I have done it twice: first time I just climbed that big flake to the high first bolt; second time I started on the route 20 feet right, clipping a few bolts before committing to a long run-out to the roof on No Place Like Home where the route really starts. Both of these methods involved spending a lot of time in ground-fall territory. I would love to see a bolt or two added to the bottom of this route near that big flake so I can recommend it to some friends without fear of them taking a ground-fall!
17
Anonymous said on February 5th, 2011
Just keep yourself in check while doing the direct start( which I find to be the easiest). keep it cool while doing the 5.5 traverse under the flake, then walk up the sidewalk, make one 5.6 reachy move to clip the first bolt. Pretty straight foward and easy not to screw up if you got a cool head and are a solid 11 climber. Or 10 climber for that matter. I would hate to see more bolts added to this classic. Also when lowering the climber, have them unclip the rope from all the draws but the first one ( like you do on other climbs) and pull the rope. It will fall just off to the left of the arete and make a perfect courtesy clip for the next prospective red-pointer.
18
molederek said on March 14th, 2011
The guidebook should really mention the size of cams needed to protect the runout to the first bolt. I feel like the only reason the grade is 11c (more like easy 11a, and I am a notorious upgrader) is to keep weaker climbers off the death fall run for sport climbers up to the first first bolt.
19
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2011
it's a fine 11b arete with a nice view. the online ratings for top ranked routes trend toward the obvious/overrated; Rock Wars, best route in the red?
20
SCIN said on October 8th, 2011
One thing i've learned. Routes are like restaurants, movies, and beer. Think long and hard about that.
21
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2011
you said long and hard
22
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2011
i had a dream where i saw a route like this and climbed it, then i saw this... hmmmm...
23
Anonymous said on June 30th, 2012
If this route didn't have the FANTASTIC view that it does, it wouldn't be a five star classic; the exposure on this route surpasses the quality of the climbing.
24
mamagenheimer said on July 5th, 2012
#4 Camalot to protect the runout to the first bolt helped a lot, although it is VERY easy climbing.
25
pigsteak said on November 30th, 2012
one not to miss in the gorge....
26
dfspau2 said on December 19th, 2012
If your worried about the run out to the first take a #4, .5 c4's and a couple of slings and it's perfectly safe...
27
[email protected] said on June 13th, 2015
Watch out for the wasp nest in the amazing pocket right after you pull onto the arete, they did not like me jamming my hand in there....at all
28
Rusty said on November 13th, 2016
Worth battling the hordes of traddies to get on this ultra classic. Scare them away with your stick clips (that won't get you even halfway to the first bolt) and then top it out for full value!