The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Runnin' Down a Dream


1.
+1
1 votes

Roadside Attraction 5.7 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Greg Smith, Ron Snider in 1984
Length: 140ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This is the obvious dihedral at the end of the approach trail when it reaches the wall. Scramble up to a ledge of sorts to begin. Climb the low angled handcrack to a ledge. Continue up the handcrack past a couple of wide sections to another ledge to some anchors. If you want to top it out, belay from this ledge then continue up to the top.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:
beautiful (1) long (1) fun (1) exposed (1) hands (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.71 stars (131 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (86 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: OMP
Date: Sep 23rd, 2017

Submitted by: OMP
Date: Sep 23rd, 2017

Submitted by: jnolte
Date: Mar 9th, 2017

Submitted by: G-rock
Date: Mar 8th, 2009

Submitted by: G-rock
Date: Mar 8th, 2009

Submitted by: p0bray01
Date: Sep 29th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Wes said on January 20th, 2003
You can go to the top with one rope in a single pitch. Two ropes or one 70 will get you down. Great night time route if you are camping and roadside.
2
Legion said on January 27th, 2003
With rope stretch you can make it with one 60m.
3
hamsco said on June 8th, 2003
One of the best 5.7s in the southeast!
4
Yasmeen said on August 6th, 2003
Yay! :)
5
pigsteak said on December 10th, 2003
an over rated climb if there ever was one...
6
captain static said on May 19th, 2004
Hey gumby, this is a one pitch climb, the tree at the ledge is good for natural pro but please don't bail by rapping off it. If you have to bail, leave gear and save the tree. If your lucky maybee you can find somebody that can do the route for you, retrieve you gear, and then set up a TR for your sorry REAR.
7
rockclimbingdude said on March 12th, 2005
Great warm up rout. good training rout to do reps on. I think it is a little over rated for a 5.7 more like a 5.4-5.3
8
TexasK said on May 23rd, 2005
One of the best photos in the guide!
9
TexasK said on May 23rd, 2005
One of the best photos in the guide! What Hamsco said.
10
Ian said on May 24th, 2005
Great route, can easily rap with a single 60m rope.
11
Wolf said on July 11th, 2006
I tried rapping from the top with a full 60 meter rope, and I was 15 feet off the ground. Either my rope's not very stretchy, or you people are fat.
12
Ascentionist said on July 11th, 2006
The top being the summit or the bolt anchors 20 feet below the top? Cause from the anchors a 60 will get you down with some to spare. Try reading carefully or check your rope length.
13
Wolf said on July 12th, 2006
Top being the summit. I wish I'd remembered reading the first comment and not just the other two. My bad.
14
K-Dawg said on October 4th, 2006
brilliant, loved this route. Now I know why someone is always on it. We did the single rap with a 60m rope.
15
joe leismer said on October 2nd, 2007
Its popularity has caused areas to become polished. Classic.
16
rrgclimber said on October 21st, 2007
great climbing and a great view classic all the way
17
bcombs said on December 24th, 2007
Great winter view from the top. We donated yet another piece of webbing on the tree.
18
keegan540 said on June 12th, 2008
Fun route, well worth it.
19
Peng said on July 21st, 2008
Climbed this on July 19, 2008: at the end of the "1st pitch" ie, where you reach the tree on the ledge, as you come up, there is a bee hive in your face. My advice: as soon as you can, hook right to head for the tree; belay your partner from there; then head on up. If you did this in a single pitch, the rope is going to go right in front of the bee hive and then...
20
512OW said on July 21st, 2008
Not if you sling the tree to keep the rope off the hive. Oh wait... maybe that was just too obvious.
21
Anonymous said on July 28th, 2008
The bees are bumblebees and not very aggressive if you don't block access to their hive. If they start swarming, just move over to the tree and they will leave you alone.
22
Ascentionist said on August 1st, 2008
Ahh! The voice of reason! Glad somebody doesn't overreact to such small critters.
23
Anonymous said on August 4th, 2008
You guys are just a bunch of elitist-sour-puppies who love to shame people who leave advice for gumbies (this is a 5.7 route right?) into shutting up and not use the precious airtime that is the exclusive domaine of the true climbing dirtbag. Gumby advice getting flamed on "50 words for pump", OK; but on "Roadside Attraction?" that's just plain lame. Yoda.
24
rjackson said on September 27th, 2008
A rite of passage that lives up to its reputation.
25
p0bray01 said on September 29th, 2008
Amazing handjams. The Bombay offwidth at the end def added spice. Don't even think my bros would have protected it although didn't need em anyway. Just a little confidence and you got it ;)
26
512OW said on September 29th, 2008
Bombay?
27
kisor740 said on October 8th, 2008
its trad so theres nothing really good to say about it
28
blaketh007 said on March 10th, 2009
Super fun! My first route that I had to rely on jams. Crack is addicting!
29
Koebs said on March 31st, 2009
A must lead for any trad climber in the red.
30
kman154 said on June 1st, 2009
Should have climbed it in one pitch.
31
Anonymous said on July 12th, 2009
does anyone have gear beta for this route? i've followed it, and know that it eats gear, but don't recall what pieces you need to adequately protect it.
32
Saxman said on July 13th, 2009
Andrew said it best, "You're right about the hexes and one cam for Roadside Attraction, but you have the order of placement wrong. One cam where ever the hell you want, and a rack of hexes to throw at dumb ass trad climbers carrying a haul bag up to the crag to climb Motha and Roadside Attraction."
33
MonkeySpank said on August 3rd, 2009
First crack climb. Crack is tougher than face for sure!
34
jenbongo said on August 24th, 2009
We only had doubles up to #3 cams, so we stopped at the first tree ledge, and did the rest to the summit as the second pitch. It worked pretty well for gear and divided the leading fairly equally between partners. You could probably protect the entire route with #2s. We also MOVED THE SUMMIT ANCHOR from a dead tree to a live tree. It sits back from the edge farther, so there might be too much rope drag to pull your 70 meter rope if you rap to the ground. We rapped the 20 feet down to the rap anchors, and rapped again.
35
CLIMBTRAD said on May 11th, 2010
The rock at the base of this climb has falling over looks like more could go.
36
StefPrez said on June 11th, 2010
As a newer trad leader, I was stoked to get the onsight lead for this climb. We did the entire climb as one pitch, as most people do. For gear, it depends on how tight you like to zipper it up. I think I had triples in C4's from #1-#3 (9 cams total). #2's fit almost anywhere, so the more of those you have, the better. Save a #1 for the offwidth/squeeze chimney thing right before the belay ledge at the top (the one with the bolted anchors). The #1 Camalot fits beautifully bomber at the top of the offwidth portion where it closes back up. If you'd like to bring a .75, you may find a spot for it, but honestly, rack most of your cams on the left, and don't bother with nuts or anything smaller than a #1 C4. Great climb, and a great trad lead for a newer trad leader.
37
gripster said on October 21st, 2010
I found at least one bomber nut placement, which was good since i had plugged my #2's and #1's!
38
Anonymous said on August 27th, 2015
How do people get down these days? The little tree long gone or now a mighty oak?
39
DrRockso said on August 28th, 2015
Anon, there are bomber bolted anchors below the summit which will get you to the ground with a 60m rope.
40
Anonymous said on August 28th, 2015
Thanks Doc! Know if bolts at top of P1?
41
Anonymous said on August 28th, 2015
Jeezus... no he's not going to wipe it for you too
42
Chiyram said on January 3rd, 2017
Awesome climb, but less awesome when the crack has condensed...
43
Anonymous said on June 24th, 2017
http://www.rockandice.com/weekend-whipper-video/roadside-attraction-red-river-gorge-trad-fall How, uh...NOT to climb the first pitch. In ever way imaginable.
44
Chiyram said on June 26th, 2017
Is there more ways to climb a crack other than just laying it back???
45
Dougclymz said on October 17th, 2017
Hand jams. And foot jams. Mostly the right. Great fun and great view at the top. Splendor!