Runnin' Down a Dream

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Motha


3.
+0
0 votes

Jump For Joy 5.9+ (Sport) **

First Ascent: Tracy Crabtree, Jeff Ashley in 1993
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Walk left from Roadside Attraction to a line of bolts above a thin boulder. Start on top of the boulder and climb the face to some anchors.
Moves: Crimps and Pockets
Descent: Rap Rings
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2.45 stars (80 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (55 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: corduroy
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Anonymous said on May 15th, 2004
Fun climb but Glen needs to keep his hands off the bolt. DONT PULL ON THE BOLT!!!!!!!!!!
2
turbozygote said on September 15th, 2004
Don't fall above the second bolt (ouch).
3
the lurkist said on November 18th, 2004
jack for jizz
4
Gaar said on December 26th, 2004
I had to Jump on this POS!!! How ghetto is that?
5
calvinivlac said on June 20th, 2005
Wasp nest a little to the left and below the 3rd bolt.
6
K-Dawg said on September 28th, 2005
yup, wasps nesting inside some of the holds :( I also watch some guy getting sketched out going for the second clip. We all knew what was about to happen and then it did. He fell and landed with straight knees and flat feet onto the start boulder. OH MAN, that had to hurt!
7
Ascentionist said on October 13th, 2005
This one is in the running for stupidest route in the galaxy.
8
merrick said on June 5th, 2006
if the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th bolts were moved this climb could be a lot safer. still i thought it was fun and the jump at the beginning was a fun move.
9
kek-san said on September 22nd, 2006
Kinda fun, but I feel for any new leader on this route. I be alot of people get hurt on it. If 9 is your limit go do Kampsite instead.
10
JR said on September 22nd, 2006
Ironically, I think more people have been hurt on Kampsite.
11
JR said on September 22nd, 2006
Ironically, I think more people have been hurt on Kampsite.
12
Ascentionist said on September 22nd, 2006
I know more people have been hurt on Kampsight. I once was a new leader on this route. It's not that bad, though if the last bolt were a couple feet to the left it would be a whole lot safer. That way you could protect the cheat route. I know a guy that fell trying to get to the anchors on Motha without having the last bolt clipped and the only reason his 200 lb butt didn't crater was because his 100 lb. girlfriend was anchored to the tree that used to be there. Even still, he was only a couple inches off the ground.
13
Ascentionist said on September 22nd, 2006
And...if you're talking about the start being dangerous, it doesn't have to be. You can stick clip and unless you're really short you can even clip the bolt from the boulder before making the move.
14
Wes said on April 5th, 2007
This route is teh SUCK! Really. Contrived. Would have been much better if the bolts were 2-3 feet to the left, though it would be a bit easier and less dangerous that way.
15
Crankmas said on April 30th, 2007
Wes, I agree, the natural line lies to the left, I heard from FA team that an undercling to the right is key. I go left and stretch back right to clip upper bolts.
16
The Pirate said on July 20th, 2007
cool route...great finish ledge...
17
mcrib said on July 20th, 2007
The ashtray should lobby to have his name taken off the establishment of this pile.
18
Brentucky said on September 23rd, 2007
I don't recommend this route for a new 5.9'ish leader. Will definitely have a nasty fall to boulder if you don't clip the 2nd bolt although it's pretty easy there. Going straight up to get past the 4th bolt is fun, but I'd say it's more like a 10+ move. I'm not sure about the moves out left, but I didn't go that way b/c it looked sort of off route to me although I guess that must be within 5.9 territory.
19
ahab said on April 9th, 2008
i second the lurkist's motion for a name change to 'jack for jizz'. if you go left it's boring, if you go right it's forced.
20
keegan540 said on April 23rd, 2008
I didn't find anything wrong with the route. Not sure what the complaining is about. Fun start and a few 5.9 moves gets you to the anchors.
21
bcarr said on July 13th, 2008
I understand the complaining with regards to the bolt placement. The 2nd bolt is in a terrible spot. If you climb toward the right, it makes the climb a 5.10a. If you climb left along the 9ish path, you are absolutely unprotected as you clip the 2nd bolt (will hit the boulder if you fall). An additional bolt between the 1st and 2nd would fix it. Other than that, I like the route.
22
Peng said on July 21st, 2008
On July 19, 2008, we spotted a copperhead hanging out under the flat rock (which is actually a roof of sorts) about 5 feet left of the bolder on which you start this route. If sort of stayed under there enjoying the heat emmanating from the rock the whole day, going from one side to the other as the sun's orientation changes, and so I'm guessing that it could be its nest.
23
whatahutch said on November 26th, 2008
I've been on better routes, and worse.
24
rjackson said on July 18th, 2009
What they said... well, most of 'em anyway.
25
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2016
Retro-bolted today with bolts added between 1-2, and 2-3.
26
Willy said on April 24th, 2016
Thanks anonymous Ian!