Wicked Games

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Milkin' the Chicken


14.
+0
0 votes

Andromeda Strain 5.9+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Ron Snider, John Bronaugh in 1984
Length: 90ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Left of the bolted line Wicked Games is a beautiful dihedral with a handcrack. Climb up the short slab to the base of the crack. Jam to the top passing a couple of short roofs along the way.
Brought the rating down to its original rating.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.57 stars (37 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (31 votes)

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Submitted by: chriss
Date: Jan 17th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
tonybubb said on June 17th, 2003
The rating is down to it's original rating then... This climb gets slimey with high humidity- or at least it used to. Maybe with the higer traffic in the 90's it has cleaned up a little?
2
TexasK said on October 14th, 2003
I don't think its any less slimey today.
3
Jerry Bargo said on January 16th, 2004
I didn't think it was any easier than Hard Left.
4
Yasmeen said on August 17th, 2004
After 4 days of dry weather and low humidity, it was completely dry. Beautiful handjams.
5
Paul3eb said on September 17th, 2004
beautiful handjams for yasmeen = pumpy lieback for paul. still an awesome route. who ticks handjams?
6
Anonymous said on October 8th, 2004
paulo no jammo? too bad!
7
Anonymous said on October 8th, 2004
paulo no jammo? too bad!
8
J-Rock said on January 18th, 2005
Worthy of a 3 star classic status.
9
Gaar said on May 9th, 2005
Best Jammer rounte in the red!
10
Gaar said on September 25th, 2005
i would like to correct my statment Oberon is the best jammer route at the red! this is second
11
Snowpuppy said on December 4th, 2005
Most excellant route!!! Right up there with Africa!!!
12
Anonymous said on January 23rd, 2006
that dude is hot!
13
biggb said on February 2nd, 2006
yep...good stuff.
14
anticlmber said on May 8th, 2007
F'n sweet. Good fall at the upper pump section.
15
RRO said on May 24th, 2007
great route, bomber jams the whole way.
16
rjackson said on September 5th, 2009
Seriously stout. Stays on you, yet so worth it.
17
caribe said on November 20th, 2009
Loved it!! Jams and jellys.
18
taurusclimber said on September 27th, 2015
Climbed this after a rain, and it was damp near the bottom, and had dampness and moss in the last 10 feet. Still, a very fun climb.
19
[email protected] said on December 3rd, 2016
Could easily be my Favorite route at the red, if youre thinking about it do it!!!
20
Chrishenks said on November 14th, 2017
Went to climb this route a few months back and a massive hemlock near the base of the cliff has broken and is resting on the edge of the cliff right above the anchors... adds some real excitement