Milkin' the Chicken

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Battle of the Bulge


16.
+0
0 votes

A.W.O.L. 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mark Williams, Porter Jarrard in 1990
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the obvious bolted line just right of the mixed climb on the arete. Start at a low overhang and move up through pockets and bulges to the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.72 stars (149 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (130 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Zspider said on October 3rd, 2004
I love this climb. If you are close to six foot, you should be able to work your hands into a couple very solid mailbox pockets before pulling your feet onto the climb. Don't waste time looking for buckets between the last bolt and the anchors.
2
Paul3eb said on April 4th, 2005
if you're looking for your first .10 lead, this one's not bad. huge jugs, good clipping holds, clean fall up top.. just pay attention for the second bolt.
3
keith_b00ne said on August 30th, 2006
Great for staying dry.
4
bryanboonern said on August 30th, 2006
Pretty thin up top. Scetchy clip at the last bolt.
5
Captain Bad Beta said on October 2nd, 2006
Fun climb. Gentle overhang so the falls (if any) will be clean. The crux is a bit thin which makes it even more fun!
6
surffl05 said on April 16th, 2007
pretty fun climb... easy smooth 5.10 climbing all the way up.... fun moves to the clipping jug for the anchors
7
gdoliner said on October 29th, 2007
Pretty well sustained route, very fun. I thought the majority of the hard movement was solid V1, which would put the route in the 5.10c/d range.
8
Andrew said on October 29th, 2007
I really hope your joking, nothing on that route is V1. Nothing at the Red is V1. 5.9+
9
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2007
I'm with andrew. honestly, if you thought these moves were v1 then you were either really pumped or on the wrong holds. I prefer to sandbag my ratings of individual moves, though, so i say the crux goes at 9-
10
bcombs said on October 31st, 2007
If you attempted to touch every single chalked hold at the top of this route it would easily go V3 or V4. ;-)
11
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2007
yeah, maybe v5 if you did so static. like the lock off exercise in the gym...lock off each hold for five seconds before grabbing the next one. only here, you'd slap a minimum of 9 holds before grabbing the next one. i think i'll climb this that way next time im at roadside and put it on my 8a.nu card as 7c+ (onsite, soft for the grade)
12
Anonymous said on April 5th, 2008
Fun route. Dry in light rain.
13
ahab said on April 9th, 2008
i wonder what the holds would feel like after being brushed for about 1/2 hour each. either way, super fun.
14
Buzz said on April 9th, 2008
This is a great route. It will stay dry in a light sprinkle. I agree, all the holds could use some brushing off.
15
keegan540 said on April 23rd, 2008
Classic 10A of the area. Perfect climb to find out what a 10 feels like at the Red.
16
keegan540 said on June 17th, 2008
a lot easier for some reason this time around
17
andrew.reed said on September 23rd, 2008
too chalky
18
Dman said on January 1st, 2009
another good 10 like the slight overhang made for some fun climbing
19
sheath said on February 20th, 2010
Love this route! It's not often that I repeat routes, but this one is great to come back to. Sketchy start until you get the jug (I'm 5'7"), but then easy jug haulin' all the way with some easy "cruxes" that are really just crimps that you'd consider to be good holds on other routes. Don't clip the anchors from below; climb up to the jug above them to clip. Your forearms will thank you.
20
climb2core said on June 29th, 2011
This was the first climb I did in the Red back in '98. Hope that things change to allow others the same experience....
21
amarius said on October 11th, 2016
2016/10/10 1st hanger spins, right anchor bolt loose, had no wrench. Both reported on badbolts
22
phank said on November 30th, 2016
Felt really pumpy to third bolt then a few good rests on way to anchors.
23
Chiyram said on January 3rd, 2017
Attempted to tighten the first bolt to no avail. It's locked up.
24
mbrunell said on September 5th, 2017
9/2/17: still true: 1st hanger spins, right anchor bolt loose (I didn't have a wrench either). This area is managed by: http://grainingfork.org/ ..but I was unable to find any direct contact information, it appears the reporting of bad bolts did not get to them..