Battle of the Bulge

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Crazyfingers


18.
+0
0 votes

Dragonslayer 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mark Williams, Charles Tabor in 1990
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line to the right of A.W.O.L characterized by obvious monos near the first bolt.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.53 stars (75 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (62 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 25th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 25th, 2010

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
rockstar said on December 3rd, 2004
how the heel is this r? it is a sport route! you usually deck if you blow the 2nd clip!
2
Meadows said on December 7th, 2004
The picture below is Syncronicity and Pulling Pockets
3
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2004
go a few moves above the 2nd to the jugs to clip the 2nd
4
Anonymous said on February 18th, 2005
boys, this is just a girls climb, why don't you all take some steroids or something? If you can't clip it why not try bouldering?
5
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2005
Could the "R" rating be removed?
6
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2005
The picture below is Crazyfingers, Pulling Pockets, and Synchronicity
7
Dink Dink said on March 31st, 2005
that's dragon slayer over on the far left, ain't it?
8
Sco Bro said on March 31st, 2005
It's a R and you just need to keep that in mind when leading this climb. You are better off climbing slightly abovethe second bolt and using the jug up and to the left to clip the second bolt, as suggested by anticlmber. It's less taxing and the fall is the same if you blow it, i.e., you're belayer will be wearing you as a hat. If you try to clip from below you'll have to pull up more rope and use a shitty hold to clip off. It's a fun route and, fyi, the hardest part is not clipping the second bolt. . .its the anchors.
9
jlu said on August 26th, 2006
5.10d for the finger pulls until the 2nd bolt... smooth sailing after that
10
Anonymous said on January 19th, 2007
Sco Bro's right; falling at the anchors = broken ancle It's an R - (trust me, I know)
11
chriss said on January 19th, 2007
If you got a broken ankle from falling at the anchors I would suggest a new belayer.
12
Caspian said on January 19th, 2007
I don't think Sco Bro said anything about breaking ankles or being R after the second bolt.
13
Anonymous said on January 22nd, 2007
sorry - i didn't mean a ground fall. foot hit a pocket after falling from the anchors - that broke the ankle
14
Meadows said on March 28th, 2007
Should this still be considered R? I thought Terry rebolted it and made it safer.
15
512OW said on March 29th, 2007
Definitely not an R. The second bolt is only about 3 feet from the first....
16
Anonymous said on April 1st, 2007
yeah, and can you tape the holds for me so I know which ones to grab and when? I can't think for myself and I need a guidebook to assure me I'm safe even when I'm trying something "inherently dangerous". even if you do deck out from the second, is that even worth an R? Won't you normally deck if you blow the second on any climb? Or should it get an R because of the pocket you're absolutely going to hit if you blow the anchor clip? Or how about R because of the danger of your fragile brain falling out of your head while your cleaning resulting in a ground fall that broke your leg? Why did Terry not completely sanitize this route for us? What should we do Terry???
17
ray said on April 2nd, 2007
Yea, Terry moved the bolt. I removed the "R" rating.
18
woman said on April 5th, 2007
Geez. While the R was unnecessary, it sure made me feel cool. And you changed it right after I sent it! Hmph!
19
SCIN said on April 5th, 2007
I didn't change it. Terry changed it a long time ago.
20
512OW said on April 5th, 2007
I think you should all stop whining and just toprope everything. No... screw that. Just belay me on my projects. Wear a helmet though... never know when the sky might fall.
21
Brentucky said on June 30th, 2008
i thought this was about the safest "looking" bolted route of all the 10's... also, huge holds to clip the 2nd bolt if you move out left a little bit, and then it's like any other well bolted climb after that.
22
Dman said on February 6th, 2009
great route dont know about the R but who cares
23
danf26 said on March 19th, 2009
hell of a mono needed. thought it was easier than crazyfingers
24
tyler.yarbrough said on May 2nd, 2011
My buddy fell from right before the chains and smacked the shit out of the tree directly below, could have been a lot worse if he had hit the trunk too. Lesson learned - a dyno to the last hold is not the beta.
25
pigsteak said on May 1st, 2015
hairline fracture thru both anchor bolts. do not climb until fixed.
26
Anonymous said on March 13th, 2016
New glue in anchors 3/13/16 provided from community funded FGI hardware.