Stay the Hand (Direct Start)

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Psycho Killer


25.
+1
1 votes

Valor Over Discretion 5.8 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Roger Pearson, John Bronaugh in 1987
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Start this route by standing on the large boulder to the right of the 5.10 wall. Climb up the face a few feet right of the arete. Traverse left under the roof and step around the arete. Continue up to a ledge.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2.44 stars (78 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (66 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 21st, 2004
now bolted
2
the lurkist said on November 18th, 2004
who bolted an original (for years) trad line?
3
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2005
Scott Hammon did with Johnny's permission
4
EverythignElse said on April 18th, 2005
tarrible rope drag nice climb
5
C'est Si Bon said on April 25th, 2005
5.7 horrible horrible waste of time, not worth the wear on the rope.
6
Sco Bro said on May 19th, 2005
If the climb got some traffic all the thin crap would break, it would then be a descent climb with the potential to get the rope hung up between the faces between the second and third bolt.
7
squeezindlemmon said on May 31st, 2005
Fun moves... wish it was longer - a lot longer.
8
Panarie said on May 31st, 2005
Really liked it-jumping off of the boulder was fun.
9
Meadows said on June 15th, 2005
It was not bad. Make sure you clean it on TR
10
Ballss said on October 12th, 2005
Just rappel off to clean it. You should be anyway.
11
merrick said on November 14th, 2005
Really not as bad as one would think. fun climbing with a little breakiness to keep your head in gear. best if cleaned on tr with the leader bringing up the second and then you rappel.
12
soccerfast007 said on July 23rd, 2007
don't fall clipping #3, you'll kill your belayer (or break his/her neck at best). a little spicy, not bad...
13
scottieclimbs said on December 5th, 2007
depending on the time of day / year you climb this one. The sun can be all kinds of in your eyes when trying to look for the next hold. Felt good to finish it, though!
14
intheLou said on February 26th, 2008
Waste of time. Did it on gear before the bolts, and my belay/2nd dropped my #3 cam 25'.
15
keegan540 said on April 23rd, 2008
warm up climb for the 10's, don't expect this to be much of a climb though.
16
uberwhipper said on July 14th, 2008
I always wanted to climb the route but never got around to it untill recently. I don't know if it was the build up or what, but I wasn't impressed. It makes you feel sorta exposed because untill the third bolt, you probably shouldn't fall, but the actually climb is mediocre at best. It tore the crap outta my rope too. Maybe a cool free solo if you are into that.
17
cliftongifford said on July 18th, 2008
horrible rope drag! if you want to save your rope, don't get on this climb.
18
louisville_climber said on August 4th, 2008
fun at the beginning, coming off the boulder.
19
DuppyC said on December 31st, 2008
worth doing if you are there. fun going around the corner onto the face.
20
gheib said on May 10th, 2010
Was aright but wouldn't recommend it to be on one's top ticklist. The rope drag is terrible.
21
climb2core said on February 21st, 2011
My gf first lead, and we stick clipped the second bolt. I think it would be better if the first bolt was chopped. If you fall anywhere around the second bolt, decking is guaranteed. Considering the grade, it is probably something that noobs are going to be jumping on. Then you could stick clip safely to the second bolt or if you want to climb up, at least not have that false sense of security to that the rope would afford you any protection.