Trouble Clef

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

All Cows Eat Grass


44.
+0
0 votes

Altered Scale 5.9+ (Sport) **

First Ascent: John Bronaugh in 2002
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line on the wall about 10 feet right of Trouble Clef. Begin on a 3 foot high sloping ledge.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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2.8 stars (64 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (57 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2003
Having done all of the routes from Kampsight to C-sharp - this is the most challenging of them all. The first section has lost most of it's holds, making the moves pretty delicate. And the crux section in the middle is a bit beyond 5.9 in my opinion. Overall, I like the route - but think the grade might fool some people.
2
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2003
I led all the routes on this wall for the first time this week and think there are three 9+ sections on this climb: to the first bolt, a thin facey section in the middle and the bulge right below the anchor. Were it not for big ledges between the tough moves, this would be a 5.10a for sure.
3
RTimm said on April 20th, 2003
I agree that this is probably harder than a 5.9, especially the sketchy beginning and pulling the buldge at the end. Although, I bet it might be a 9 if you use the crack way to the right at the top to help pull the bulge.
4
Stewy911 said on June 10th, 2003
definately the hardest of the routes from kampsight to C sharp B flat, would agree on a 9+, 10a rating
5
t bone said on September 14th, 2003
Wandering, contrived line.
6
Don McGlone said on March 15th, 2004
A really fun route, but the anchors getting quite dangerous. One has been replaced by being moved up, but from the hole of the pulled one to the one on the right there is a hairline crack. Plus the bolt below the bulge creates a lever effect on the biner against the rock. If fallen on, it could break the biner.
7
Anonymous said on February 24th, 2005
Eh, the crack way to the right at the top isn't conducive to pulling the buldge, at least not for me. There's a fairly easy sequence of moves to get over that buldge that I figured out after a few times on the route that goes straight over the buldge with a great left hand jug to grab just above the buldge. Every time I or another climber tried using the right hand crack/offwidth/gully thing we just got stuck. 9+.
8
K-Dawg said on September 28th, 2005
This sure got hot in the sun, try early morning for a cool, shady climb.
9
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2005
don't know about this being a 'wandering, contrived line'. it's only wandering if you can't make the moves direct, which at times take a bit of figuring out. all in all, solid 9+ lead.
10
powen01 said on January 11th, 2006
I wandered some on top rope, it was fun. I went right for the finishing bulge, using the crack on the right a little... Still a fun route... I need to get back and lead it...
11
soccerfast007 said on August 23rd, 2006
any climb in direct sunlight is about 1 grade harder, even so, this was a tough piece to TR for a newby like myself in August heat and humidity, long route endurance was a factor, great view at the anchors, i soaked my belayer as only i can do when exerting my fatass to my limits.
12
ETB-Photography said on November 25th, 2006
great in november around noon, its perfect light and temp. the start to the first bolt is alittle tricky but with some figuring out its all comes together
13
Lander said on January 6th, 2008
It's easier to pull the bulge at the end going straight up the bolt line rather than taking the crack to the right. There are good holds that way. I could see this being called a 10 a lot of places.
14
louisville_climber said on August 4th, 2008
hardest of the moderates at roadside...the slab at the beginning is hard, and the I'm not too fond of the bulge at the top...challenging.
15
dhuff said on January 23rd, 2009
This thing sucks.
16
bsuclimb11 said on April 28th, 2009
not a bad climb, definitly a harder route compared to its surrounding climbs. great view from the top. watch out for wasp nests...got a good sting on my ankle just before topping out.
17
Anonymous said on May 26th, 2009
A good climb with a fun start. The line is not at all contrived, since it goes fine at its grade straight on. It would only wander if you got suckered into the cracks. Early on the face is thin and requires a little 10a-ish edging, but it is over quickly. Lots of rests in the mid section--without the two leges, this would be stiff. Top bulge move requires committment, but holds are large once reached and the move is well protected. No sign of wasps on the route on 5/24/09.