Altered Scale

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Strawberry Shortcake


45.
+0
0 votes

All Cows Eat Grass 5.8 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh in 2002
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line 20 feet right of Altered Scale. Begin just left of a crack with some bushes.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.36 stars (98 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (84 votes)

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Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Nov 1st, 2010

Comments

1
weeksjr said on November 10th, 2003
The last move is fun.... Trust me, the jusg is there. Just go for it!
2
ender_xx said on June 11th, 2004
good sustained 5.8 - so fun
3
squeezindlemmon said on May 31st, 2005
Best route on the wall, imo.
4
Panarie said on May 31st, 2005
fun! was good technical route-and so smooth!
5
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
Great place to learn how to lead.
6
caribe said on March 7th, 2006
The very top at the bulge is the place to learn to put one's trust in the rock gods as your personal saviors. Back in the day this one was a school for me.
7
Anonymous said on September 6th, 2006
Not sure where else to post this... Right-hand bolt at the top of this climb is wobbly.
8
Paul3eb said on September 7th, 2006
for comments on bolts and the like, post it at www.teamsuckclimbing.com or contact rrgcc.org
9
soccerfast007 said on June 11th, 2007
if you chose to go left into the crack (practice stemming/shake out)at the top it is a pretty scary reach to grab the anchors unless you go a little above them and traverse, next time I plan on going up the right side where the monster jugs are
10
Brentucky said on August 4th, 2007
Good, long 5.8 for a beginning climber; a little slabby to make you think, a little juggy to make you trust the rock gods as caribe wrote. I think I should get some points for this thing; I vote it 5.8+.
11
tunedvwgti said on September 14th, 2007
Great route! I really enjoy the exposure that the climbs at Roadside Crag offer. This route has a great crux move near the end so be ready! I rated it a 5.8
12
jenbongo said on December 11th, 2007
I turned it into a 5.11 by pulling the roof to the right of the second to last bolt while the route was sopping wet. Great scary fun on lead!
13
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
Same as all the other routes on this section of the wall... slabey, no feet, no fun. And then there is a somewhat scary top with a few hidden "thank god holds" that make the end a little interesting and satisfying. But overall nothing exciting or fun. Once again, a little tougher than the grade indicates.
14
kharvey said on June 8th, 2009
super fun slab route! love the ending! just trust it and go!
15
MonkeySpank said on August 3rd, 2009
Tough when wet
16
jaysquared said on August 3rd, 2009
Both anchor hangers were loose on 7/31/09. I don't know much about anchors, but someone should probably take a look at/tighten them. The rock up there is a bit sandy.
17
crayon said on April 10th, 2010
Best one on the wall. Full value move at the top regardless of how hard you climb.
18
Redpoint said on November 1st, 2010
Not only are both anchor bolts spinners, but the bolts appear to be pulled out about an 1/8 of an inch. Take a look behind the hanger from below and you can tell this route is in great need for new anchors.
19
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2015
The anchors are still spinning and one bolt itself is loose. 3 bolts before the anchors are all spinners, too. It has been reported to badbolts.com by multiple people.
20
climb2core said on October 25th, 2015
Went up to fix this anchors and last bolt. Got the last bolt replaced with a glue in and had holes drilled for anchors, but my caulk gun broke and I couldn't finish anchors. I'll try to get back but it may be a few weeks.
21
Anonymous said on November 29th, 2015
New glue in anchors and last bolt now. Old anchors and last bolt still need to be removed. Also, didn't have chain for the new anchors. Put 3 new quicklinks on old anchors which can be moved to new ones. So, ideally 2 short pieces of chain and one quicklink (if you can't get the beefy 1/2" one off the old anchors) would finish the job.