Wadcutter

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

Hmmm


31.
+0
0 votes

Dream Of A Bee 5.8 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Unknown in 2002
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the route just to the right of Wadcutter
Moves: Slab
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Torrent Falls
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.68 stars (59 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (53 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 28th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 28th, 2011

Submitted by: possum2082
Date: Apr 26th, 2009

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Jeff said on January 18th, 2003
Ha, who gave it that name!?
2
ray said on January 21st, 2003
I did because nobody knew the name and the guy who put it up also built the via ferrata.
3
vic said on August 12th, 2003
This is where I grabbed a handful of sand at the anchors. Humm, that made my day - such a stupid mistake. Reach for the right side atop anchors is far better in my opinion.
4
Pimp said on October 22nd, 2003
The real name is "Dreanm of a bee", tha french man bolting it almost got stung by a bee on it.
5
Pimp said on October 22nd, 2003
*Sorry "DREAM of a bee"*
6
philip171 said on June 19th, 2004
Hard to clip the chains.
7
Zspider said on August 12th, 2004
Great climb. I chose a difficult stance to clip the anchors and had to reset myself to get the job done.
8
J-Rock said on December 3rd, 2004
Worthy of at least one star.
9
Dink Dink said on March 31st, 2005
Sketchy sketchy clip for the anchors. And not a very pleasant fall, for climber or belayer. Watch the rocks.
10
K-Dawg said on September 27th, 2005
Clipping the anchors is a bit sketchy but I still like this climb. Nothing too hard, nothing too tricky, a nice and easy all the way up.
11
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
This is a nice climb. I think the 5.8 rating comes from a thin (and wet everytime i've climbed it) clip hold for the anchors. Fun.
12
caribe said on March 13th, 2006
I agree about the sketchy clip at the anchors.
13
climbhigh said on August 1st, 2006
for the grade its pretty damn fun. someone just getting into 8's will enjoy this route.
14
dnalienator said on August 21st, 2006
I just set up a toprope for my brother there this morning and I agree with climbhigh. Also, I think there may be a bolt missing under the anchors. Either way the guide says there are seven bolts and I only counted six.
15
Josephine said on September 17th, 2007
there are 5 bolts + anchors. the 6th bolt is missing.
16
anticlmber said on September 18th, 2007
there never was a sixth bolt. only five.
17
Josephine said on September 18th, 2007
last year i thought i saw a bolt that was chopped under the anchors. quite frankly, i didn't look for it this go round, i just climbed. i just noticed dnalienator said the guide says 7 bolts but there were 6. not true. book says 6 but there are 5.
18
Lander said on March 22nd, 2008
a good slow warmup starts with this climb.
19
possum2082 said on April 26th, 2009
the anchor clip is just a bit run out and sandy. make sure your belayer is ready or they'll slam into several sharp rocks.
20
Josephine said on April 26th, 2009
the anchor clip used to be run out - but a new bolt was added. (now there really are 6 bolts!)
21
swj said on November 6th, 2011
I think I did about four hand-foot match mantels on this route. Pretty climb. I don't remember being sketched out clipping the anchors.
22
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2014
Climbed this one just last weekend (Nov 2014). The anchors are in pretty rough shape. the glue-ins are in good condition, however, the quick-links (& glued-shut D-biner) have considerable wear through (~40%) from presumably rope drag(lowering). I couldn't get my PAS into the glue-in's & my rope for rappel..so I just down-climbed the route and cleaned that way instead of trusting the compromised anchor. Since this is private land, I'm not sure who's maintaining any of these routes. Anybody know who to tell?