Rug Muncher

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

The Cream Machine


11.
+0
0 votes

Ball Scratcher 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Moll in 1994
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from Heart-Shaped Box about 50 feet to a rounded arete with bolts. Ride the arete to some anchors.
"Ponder the consequences of whiffling the crux, then don a cup and swing for the fence." -John Bronaugh, Red River Gorge Climbs, Second Edition
Moves: Slab
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.91 stars (46 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (42 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2012

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
dj_ax said on June 5th, 2004
This was my first 12...... DAMN... YOU GOTTA CHANGE THAT PIC!
2
young'n climber said on June 8th, 2004
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
3
peterbonamici said on June 9th, 2004
you really need to change that pic. this is a beautiful climb, one that could have a beautiful picture, but.....theres a not-so-beautiful picture
4
jstokes said on June 10th, 2004
By the looks of that pic he has cock to go witht he balls...lol.
5
maine said on April 5th, 2005
Somebody please claim these balls and remove them from the website!
6
Like This said on May 14th, 2006
(See young'n climber's comment)
7
hoss said on August 22nd, 2006
Left project draws on this due to heavy rain last weekend, please don't snag them and for the love of christ Ray change that picture!
8
Anonymous said on August 23rd, 2006
I already collected the booty draws that you left there hoss. Better luck next time.
9
hoss said on August 23rd, 2006
thats cool I'll just gank someone else's draws off their project and the cycle of hate will continue
10
Andrew said on April 22nd, 2007
Easiest 12a in the red. Even easier than manifest destiny.
11
chouca said on October 21st, 2007
Andrew is right. This felt as hard as Hen-ry. But with these bolts it´s really scary. On the 2nd the thread is sticking out 1/4".
12
Paul3eb said on November 11th, 2007
fun route.. hardest part of this route is the mental aspects. the run-out is fine, though, and the fall is safe. just sack up..
13
mcrib said on November 11th, 2007
and don't forget to scream at the top of your lungs.
14
dustonian said on October 14th, 2009
I wouldn't say it's the easiest 12a in the Red but it's not too bad. Some of the bolts are scary though and need to be replaced.
15
Becca said on October 19th, 2009
The second bolt desperately needs replacing! A fun on-sight adventure... felt like 11c.
16
Jeff said on October 19th, 2009
I've never been on this route and from the picture, I have no desire to get on it. Why all the "11c" at best comments, not only on this route, but many others as well. Does it give you a warm fuzzy that you were either 1) climbing strong that day, or 2) you are such a wanker you have to pad your ego by downgrading? Just curious. Almost as bad as posting about every route that needs a bolt replaced but never replacing any bolts yourself.
17
JR said on October 19th, 2009
Jeff are you suggesting people not comment on the difficulty just the quality. There is a place to vote for both I suppose. "I repent my sandbaggedness on this route grade. 5.11b is more appropriate. " Look familiar? Here are your only options for a defense "1) you climbed strong that day, or 2) you are such a wanker you have to pad your ego by sandbagging? " Does this feel passive aggressive? Just curious?
18
ahab said on October 19th, 2009
i've never climbed it, or even seen it for that matter, but judging by the picture above it's 11a at best.
19
Jeff said on October 19th, 2009
Hit a nerve. I don't really feel like or think I need to explain or defend my comment. And I'm not sure what passive aggressive means either (not the sharpest knife in the drawer and never went past 12th grade) but I know I don't feel like googling it. If you really want to know why I said 11b about Whipoorwill I'd be glad to explain it if I see you out sometime.
20
pawilkes said on November 5th, 2009
this thing gets your attention. I felt like the bolts were poorly placed. The last bolt is 2 feet from the anchors, I wish it were a foot lower so the balancy committing crux didn't have to be done on an old runout bolt. good route though, worth getting on.
21
dustonian said on November 13th, 2011
Rebolted with stainless steel glue-ins... quite a bit less horrifying now. PLEASE DON'T LOWER DIRECTLY THROUGH GLUE-IN BOLTS!! Leave a biner or quicklink if you have to bail. Thanks!
22
Willy said on November 2nd, 2013
Thanks for the new bolts Dustin! Really enjoyed this one today