Naked Lunch

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

A Wave New World


6.
+3
3 votes

Breakfast Burrito 5.10d (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Gene Hume in 1995
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Classic. About 40 feet left of the approach trail is an attractive plated face with an alcove about 60 feet up. Climb up to the alcove, take a deep breath, then brave the exposed arete and steep face to the anchors. The famous "flexi-hold" finally broke, making for a tough crux clip.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
scary (2) classic (2) juggy (2) fun (2) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.66 stars (160 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (129 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Cleatus
Date: Dec 3rd, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jul 22nd, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jul 22nd, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Andrew said on January 24th, 2003
I feel bad for whoever breaks off that hold. You know, the big one that you can see flex when you grab it.
2
tomdarch said on April 14th, 2003
Yikes! Those flexy holds going for the anchor are scary!
3
Power2U said on May 12th, 2003
That flexy jug at the top is kinda sketchy! When it blows and it will, it is just a matter of time, this climb is going to be much harder... so you better get on it soon. One of the best 5.10's around.
4
Stewy911 said on June 14th, 2003
Wow What a route! Yep, whoever breaks that hold off is going down!!!!!!
5
Scaife said on October 13th, 2003
Just beacuse you can climb this 5.10d, doesn't mean you won't take a 40 footer on Fire and Brimstone! YIKES!!!
6
agrigabe said on May 10th, 2004
Great route, but I think 10d is a little high of a grade.
7
vic said on July 27th, 2004
Woke up one morning, tried the route with a rack on... a week later, I freed this thing on trad gear... Either this route is my strong point, or this route is a little easy for a 10d...
8
Paul3eb said on April 4th, 2005
great view from the cove before you pull back out onto the face. maybe .10b..?
9
neuroshock said on May 31st, 2005
the flexy jug completely broke off today (5/30/05) resulting in no injuries (4-5 people and a dog in the landing zone...fell in 3 main pieces). doesn't feel harder than 10d w/o the hold.
10
Anonymous said on August 29th, 2006
wasps now rule the roost on this route. I think somewhere around the 5th bolt.
11
endercore said on January 6th, 2007
great route, pretty pumpy, loved the top. and I'd say this route is right on for the grade.
12
maxclimb11 said on May 4th, 2007
i got stung
13
512OW said on May 14th, 2007
I thought the flexijug was the thin hold right of the last bolt, and you all were just crybabies.... haha. Now I see it has been long ago exploded....
14
Lander said on March 31st, 2008
not really any harder with the flex jug gone. still classic!
15
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
I thought this route used to be 10c. Did it get up graded? It's definitely as hard as fire and brimstone which is 10d. So, I think 10d is fair. It's an awesome climb that I think is one of the best 10s in the Red. Even if you onsight 12s this is still a must do climb because the move around the arete is so unique. Great climb!
16
Brentucky said on March 29th, 2009
clipping that last bolt was exciting and the crux for me even though i soaked up the rest all i could and then some! awesome climb with great holds!
17
dustonian said on July 19th, 2011
A shitload of poison ivy has grown up around and above the ledge just before the crux. Woulda cut it out but didn't have trimmers and probably won't get back on this route for another year. Anyway... heads up.
18
Anonymous said on August 3rd, 2011
fwiw, i thought maybe that was poison ivy too but the climber's after me said it was not.....
19
dustonian said on August 4th, 2011
It is definitely PI
20
climb2core said on August 4th, 2011
I am pretty sure we will be there this week end. I will try to remember clippers and get rid of it.
21
gneiss said on October 26th, 2011
the ivy has been there forever. i got a ridiculous case of when we drilled this thing. nothing like waiting tables with festering oozy ivy that swells your arms up to the point you can't wear a watch. more coffee anyone?
22
swj said on November 6th, 2011
That move coming out of the alcove is a must-do. Good for building mental brawn, I think. I took the whipper on my first go, I must admit. Nice, clean fall. Then on my second go, I managed to stay calmer and stuck the move... the hold is a jug after all.
23
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2012
4-9-2012; both of us thought much overrated on the quality; basically a 5.9+ to 10a to the cave, then a couple of quick moves(1st one to hang the draw) with a jug haul to the top(no, I'm not a 5.12 climber). Would only give it 3-4 stars. Not sure what hold broke(??), but still fairly easy hanging the draw out of the cave and going to the anchors.
24
crimpandgrits said on September 25th, 2012
One of the most memorable climbs I did at RRG and one of the main reasons I want to go back! I love the little rest cave :)
25
njclimber said on January 12th, 2014
Bolts 3 and 7 are spinners on 12JAN2014
26
Anonymous said on April 6th, 2015
As of March 22, 2015: I'm not sure of bolt number, but if you were to fall at the flexi-jug (where it used to be) WITHOUT having clipped that bolt, you would take a big whip on the bolt right at the base of the alcove. That bolt is loose and spinning. Pretty nerve-racking especially for beginner climbers who are probably pumped when trying to make that first upper headwall clip.
27
J-Ru said on June 28th, 2015
The bolt anon is worried about is not loose. The hanger spins, but the bolt is solid. I was unable to tighten it as it would not budge
28
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
Route fully upgraded to 5/8" Wave Glue ins on 8/30/15, hardware supplied by community fundraiser via the Fixed Gear Initiative. Thanks to all involved.
29
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
did you fix that stupid clip where the flexi-jug used to be?
30
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
It climbed and considered... and then left in about the same position. There is a good left hand that I clipped off and an even better right hand plate. It didn't make sense to move it down or up. Moving down, there wasn't good holds, and if you want to clip of the jugs above just climb a bit higher.
31
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
oh well
32
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
there have also been a couple of groundfalls from bolt 2 fyi
33
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
There has been decking from bolt 2. Also, there was potential at bolt 4. This has been fixed.
34
Anonymous said on October 10th, 2016
can we update this route? i hear you only need 4 quickdraws to climb the entire thing! and balls of steel
35
Anonymous said on October 12th, 2016
...4 draws and an extra rope
36
craig.smith1 said on October 13th, 2016
Do you get full points for the send if you have to be rescued?