Spirit Fingers

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Yadda Yadda Yadda


13.
+3
3 votes

Whip-Stocking 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard in 1997
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line just right of Spirit Fingers around a blunt corner. There is a large alcove near the top and to the left of the line. Climb the plated face to some anchors just above a roof.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
fun (3) juggy (3) classic (2) crimpy (1) beautiful (1) pumpy (1) pockets (1) long (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.6 stars (146 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (132 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 5th, 2013

Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 5th, 2013

Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 5th, 2013

Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 5th, 2013

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: May 31st, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 11th, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Anonymous said on February 26th, 2004
this is porter. the name of this route is actually "Whip-Stocking". it is a way of drilling for oil in which the rig can move a direction other than straight down. pj
2
Gaar said on December 26th, 2004
Best "F"ing 11 in the gorge. Long, overhung, two bomber rest, super clean falls, what else could you ask for??? A ladder?
3
Gaar said on December 26th, 2004
If you are going to fall, it is best that you beley from the ledge!
4
Paul3eb said on April 4th, 2005
best .11 in the gorge? have you been on any others? it's fun and classic red with a funky finish..
5
hoss said on June 28th, 2006
there are actually 3 bomber rests, sneak out left about a quarter of the way up. Super strong knee bar half way up, and a sit down right before the anchors. If you were planning on onsighting this climb don't read the previous sentance.
6
bcombs said on October 23rd, 2006
I didn't find the sit down, but I did find a kneebar just below the last bolt. Fun route.
7
merrick said on October 23rd, 2006
one of the best for its grade in the red. flowy climbing with rests you can either use or not depending on the level of pump you want! classic rrg climbing!
8
Josephine said on June 24th, 2007
it was super fun. there are several opps for knee bars and other rests which helps.
9
Myke Dronez said on March 15th, 2008
A pleasantly pumpy plow for people who posses a passion for plate pulling.
10
Lander said on March 31st, 2008
this climb makes for a great warm up or warm down. every cliff should have one of these.
11
keegan540 said on June 28th, 2008
seemed soft for an 11, still a really fun route
12
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
pumpy and fun but not all that creative. Yadda Yadda is better even though it's shorter.
13
Brentucky said on May 25th, 2009
i probably woulda enjoyed this more on a less moist day. the top does not stay dry even in a moderate rain. in fact, it gets soaked, but the holds are big enough to make do.
14
jenbongo said on October 5th, 2009
I think it's an .11 for the endurance factor, even with the 3 rests. I remember this being one of the dry climbs on a wet day.
15
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2012
4-9-2012; we both thought it was over rated for difficulty, more like 10c/d at best. Pretty much a jug haul with rest if you need it.
16
SCIN said on April 13th, 2012
4/13/2012 - Where did we both find the magic potion which allows one to know the exact grade of a route? Do tell we both.
17
nik said on May 8th, 2012
fun route. if you haven't climbed 11a yet, this is the one you've been looking for!
18
iamrob said on May 20th, 2014
how is this not a 5 star classic?
19
DrRockso said on October 7th, 2014
New glue-in bolts and chains 10/7/14. Thanks ASCA!