The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Raven Rock

Flying Circus


1.
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Nevermore 5.9+ R (Mixed) ****

First Ascent: Bob Compton, Chuck Kifer in 1971
Length: 200ft
Bolts/Gear: 2/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk left from the right end of the obvious face of Raven Rock past a small pinnacle. Locate a crack which leads to a flaring chimney capped by a small roof. There is a large boulder at the base of the route.
Original line: First pitch: Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge with trees. Second pitch: Traverse left 15 feet to a handcrack leading up to a small tree. Angle right to a ledge with some shrubs. Third pitch: Climb the face to a small ledge then climb the flake to access the large ledge which extends across the face. Fourth pitch: Traverse right several feet until you are beneath a short blank section with three hangerless bolts. Either clip the sketchy bolts or protect the face with cams. Set a hanging belay at the base of the crack when you gain it. Fifth pitch: Climb the large angling crack to the top. Variation 1: Climb the ramp 30 feet left of the original start. To the right of the first belay, climb the face to the 2nd belay. Variation 2: Climb the crack mentioned in the original second pitch all the way to the main ledge. FFA: Bob Compton, Ron Snider, Martin Hackworth 1982
Descent: Walk off
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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4.05 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (16 votes)

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Submitted by: biggb
Date: Jul 23rd, 2007

Comments

1
t bone said on January 16th, 2003
the upper half is cool ,but first two pitches are not good. but nice top out.
2
Larry Day said on January 30th, 2003
I liked the alternate start that Hackworth and I did sometime in the mid 80s.
3
Ascentionist said on April 5th, 2005
Have been to the ledge below the third pitch. Beware rappelling from the anchors. A single 60m rope will not reach the ground! We had a 70m and it only reached with rope stretch with an additional cordelette on the anchors to extend them as well.
4
skychick said on June 6th, 2005
Now that they have added the bolts to the '3rd' pitch, there is no way this thing deserves an 'R' rating.
5
Anonymous said on February 25th, 2007
I went to climb this route of Feb. 26, 2007 and there is a dead tree laying over the hand crack at the base of pitch 3 resting on another dead tree rooted in the cliff. Looks like its been there for awhile but I didn't want to climb around it and take the change that disturbing it and causing it to fall and pull my rope and gear out. There were also a lot of sticker bushes on the traverse. I cleared most of them out but they make for some uncomfortable climbing. Sticker bushes really like rope and Capaline.
6
ynot said on February 25th, 2007
That tree was there 5 years ago. I guess it will eventually rot away unless it's oak ,then it will be a long time.
7
rhino said on April 16th, 2007
Tree is still there. I stood on it. New bolts on the third pitch are nice, not certain if you could call what they replaced bolts. Top out stays wet 2 days after rain (glad Matt was leading that pitch)
8
climbhigh said on April 16th, 2007
really not that r anymore with the replaced bolts on the 4th pitch. the 2/3rd is much scarier and more committing i thought. combined 2/3 and 4/5. watch rope drag on 4/5. calling the 2/3 pitch a hand crack is exaggerating quite a bit. top stays very wet after a rain. go do this route !
9
rhino said on April 16th, 2007
Tree is still there. I stood on it. New bolts on the third pitch are nice, not certain if you could call what they replaced bolts. Top out stays wet 2 days after rain (glad Matt was leading that pitch)
10
gregkerzhner said on May 31st, 2007
I got rid of the tree. I pushed it out, and it hung on my rope 15 feet down. Proceeded to pull back up and break tree in half. Then kicked it off. The climb is easily done in 2 pitches. One can go from the ground all the way to a huge ledge with a bomber chain anchor, then traverse right and lead out the bolts all the way to the top. The second pitch is awesome, the first one is shit.
11
Cleveland said on October 5th, 2009
This route is a blast. A little hard to find the approach but more adventurous to just bushwack straight up hill to the climb.
12
CLIMBTRAD said on October 17th, 2011
Huge tree now sits about 50ft up on 1st pitch,going over or around is not safe for belayer or climber. Go to top and rapp in for last pitches.
13
Dyercurt said on April 11th, 2012
The tree is no longer in the way on the 1st pitch, the worse branches have broken off and it is are not blocking the way.
14
Dyercurt said on April 11th, 2012
The tree is no longer in the way on the 1st pitch, the worse branches have broken off and it is not blocking the way. ( not is are, should type tried
15
Dyercurt said on April 11th, 2012
should not type tired, oops again.
16
dustonian said on April 11th, 2012
Midway through your celebratory 6-pack, Dr. Gale-Dyer??
17
dustonian said on November 21st, 2012
Great route! Bring 4 quicklinks and some loctite for the top rap if anyone plans on doing this sometime soon
18
dustonian said on November 23rd, 2012
Easy linkup into 2 pitches. The first pitch has good rock, but it's dirty and indistinct--just climb up to the short chimney then veer left towards the obvious tree growing out of the cliff. Sling the tree and continue up to the dreamy midway ledge.
19
dustonian said on November 24th, 2012
finishing direct up at the top of the cliff is pretty cool, maybe 10- or so with some cool face holds
20
dfspau2 said on November 30th, 2012
Worth the experience, exposure, and final pitch, but if your expecting a classic you may be let down...
21
kman154 said on December 28th, 2012
This route was not as epic as I had made it out to be. Dirty second pitch. The third pitch is certainly the money pitch.
22
DrRockso said on August 10th, 2015
First of all the 20 min approach time in the 2nd edition book is a huge sandbag, expect about a 40 min approach from the Raven Rock parking lot, the trail from the steel bridge appeared completely overgrown. The access trail that branches off the paved trail is very faint right now so keep an eye out for it. Huge wasps nest on "2nd" pitch midway between the tree and the big ledge. Overall a really fun route just needs the 2nd pitch scrubbed really bad and some gardening work. Thanks for the glue-in bolts up top!
23
Steve_BSU said on September 1st, 2015
Just did this route with a friend. Amazing route. I did not feel there was any R rated climbing on this. The gear is all their and the 2 sketchy bolts have been replaced. man what a good line!!!