Big Burley

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

The Death Star


18.
+1
1 votes

American Dream 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Chris Martin
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This is the lowest route on the ramp before the main staging area. Most people clip the second bolt to start. Climb up and pull a tough move at the 2nd bolt then continue up through sustained and pumpy climbing to the anchors.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.31 stars (36 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (36 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Sep 1st, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Sep 1st, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Sep 1st, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 24th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 24th, 2010

Comments

1
Power2U said on May 8th, 2003
Great route! More endurance than bouldery...more like 12bish too, climb, enjoy, repeat.
2
Astroman said on March 5th, 2004
The rating is dependent on your stone size. Stick-clip the "second" bolt? 12b for sure. No second bolt stick-clip? 12c.
3
ray said on May 9th, 2004
Bad ass route. Very sustained. Cool cross through moves.
4
JR said on May 7th, 2005
Astroman thinks making clips makes his balls bigger and routes a grade harder. Dude, are you one of those BOLD sportclimbers. Sounds to me like you have a short stick......clip.
5
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2005
JR
6
Toy said on September 30th, 2005
Stick clipping does make the route easier since you're top-roping the hardest move. Why do you think top-roping doesn't count as a redpoint? Grab sack boys and hang the draws
7
Astroman said on May 16th, 2006
Well said, Toy. JR, dude, if you climbed American Dream with the wimp-clip, then yes, dude, I'd say my balls are bigger.
8
512OW said on May 29th, 2007
You guys should just manufacture high cruxes. Those are the only real cruxes anyway. Low cruxes are for wimps.
9
pigsteak said on March 1st, 2008
toy said "hang the draws"...so pre hung draws are also not a send? casue man, all those routes at darkside need to be stripped if that's the case. btw, the second clip is just jacked. the bolt needs to be moved left.
10
Meadows said on November 3rd, 2008
I thought this was easier than Ale-8-One (2nd clipped, of course). Although having some height will put you at an advantage on the opening moves. It's an awesome line!
11
schwagpad said on March 23rd, 2010
Didn't this use to be 13a?
12
Climbingrocks said on June 29th, 2010
13
Climbingrocks said on June 29th, 2010
Hardest 12b in the Red. If anyone can think of a harder one, then speak up.
14
Brentucky said on April 24th, 2011
If you don't stick-clip the second bolt on this route you are either strong (as in this is your warm-up on this wall) or stupid.
15
DWH said on June 26th, 2012
Stick clip the second bolt if your will to live is smaller than your ego. Sustained crimping for 60 feet, felt harder than Shanghai...
16
[email protected] said on April 24th, 2013
The third bolt's hanger is spinning wildly, and appears to have been glued-down recently in an attempt to hold it in place. There is glue behind the bolt itself and the hanger seems to have broken free from being glued-down to the rock. I could not tighten it by hand but have not tried to use a wrench (luckily, I am now done with this route). The second hanger was also beginning to spin as of 4/21/13.
17
Anonymous said on April 25th, 2013
if you aren't strong enough to hand tighten the bolt by hand, i doubt you sent the route. nice attempt at humble spray. glad you're done with it now as well. now go make me a sammich! shoulda never let you bitches out tha kitchen!!
18
climb2core said on August 18th, 2013
Second and third hangers spinning. Tried tightening down with a wrench and couldn't get it to budge. I was much more concerned about the 3rd bolt which appears to have been drilled perpendicular to the ground instead of the rock. It has pulled out a 1/2 inch. Not a developer, but this seems like a great scenario to fracture the rock on the bottom of the bolt with a longer lever arm (bolt coming out) and a bolt not perpendicular to the rock. Will let Teamsuck know.
19
dustonian said on August 18th, 2013
This one is high on the list
20
climb2core said on August 18th, 2013
Thanks Dustin. A fall above that third bolt would be nasty if that bolt failed. Maybe worthy of a red tag??? Idk.
21
symardila said on July 10th, 2014
This route is the reason I came to 'merica
22
Ascentionist said on March 1st, 2015
I love that this is named after a JB song
23
DrRockso said on September 6th, 2017
If anyone wanted to donate $50 to fgi we could get nice steel permas and drop ins on the entire route. Takers?