Demon Seed

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Stone Pipe


7.
+1
1 votes

Dogleg 5.12a (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Twenty feet right of Sugar Magnolia is a tall, vertical, orange face with an obvious line of pockets marking the beginning of this line and Demon Seed. Begin with gigantic moves between horizontals to reach the sequential face above.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Rap from anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.72 stars (54 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (37 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: crackedcoco
Date: Jun 26th, 2017

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jan 11th, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jan 8th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 31st, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 31st, 2011

Submitted by: Michiza
Date: Oct 17th, 2006

Submitted by: Wes
Date: Jun 25th, 2006

Submitted by: Wes
Date: Jun 25th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
ninesixfour said on May 4th, 2006
This is a good route, probably a little reachy for some.
2
Wes said on May 30th, 2006
Crazy cool route! Not sure if I will even make the longest move, but at 5'7" I could do all the others. More deadpoints/dynos then on any other route I have ever been on. Worth getting on for sure.
3
RRO said on June 15th, 2006
really fun route, unless your merrick.
4
Michiza said on October 17th, 2006
Amazing route! Feels like it was designed to entertain you, or kick your ass, respectively . If you look at my pic, note somebody wrote "poopy" next to the bolt, after f'up an onsight attempt. Wasn't me! hehe
5
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2006
kinda makes me want to try it....
6
Fartspray said on December 10th, 2008
Bolted and sent by Keith Moll. Name : Mr Brown
7
512OW said on December 10th, 2008
Something tells me that no matter what Keith called it... it will always be called Dogleg now.
8
Anonymous said on February 8th, 2009
The draws on this are very sketchy... fourth or fifth draw had a large crack running down the side of the gate. Many other's were significantly worn through. Great route though, if I weren't a poor college student I would have replaced the really bad draws. Oh well, just be cautious.
9
der uber said on March 11th, 2009
The webbing on the draws are in terrible shape (bleached white) - bring some with you for at least bolts 3,4,and 5. If you're under 5'8" the second long move has to be dynamic. The difficulty of the deadpoint isn't the distance, but rather aiming & hitting the odd pocket/crimp just right.
10
pawilkes said on March 5th, 2011
i put a steel perma draw on the fourth bolt today to make cleaning a bit easier. hopefully it doesn't get snaked
11
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2012
This had to be one of my favorite routes at the red i just couldn't believe it had all those deadpoints/dyno's.
12
symardila said on July 16th, 2012
at 5'7" I was able to stick all the moves w/o dyno-ing. just need the right foot placements. great sequence half way up. If you liked the long reaches on this one, get on Demon Seed, It has two 3 more up top
13
sigrah said on November 28th, 2016
Just a heads up The old carabiners on the anchors were in terrible shape. I replaced them with new Petzl Williams. Please do not take them off and think they are loot.
14
Anonymous said on November 29th, 2016
Thanks for the replacement. Please consider using steel biners next time, the aluminum doesn't last long around here and basic steel biners like the climb tech or the steel version of djinn's are much less expensive than "Williams" and will last a lot longer.
15
Anonymous said on November 29th, 2016
Until I steal them anyway
16
lil_reggie said on November 30th, 2016
thanks for nothing sigrah, you turd.
17
Anonymous said on November 30th, 2016
You're such a bitch Little Reggie. Such a bitch.
18
sigrah said on December 1st, 2016
Thanks for all the info Anon. I will put this information to good use the next time i replace some gear.
19
lil_reggie said on December 3rd, 2016
Lil Reggie is not a lil bitch. Anon who is afraid to log in and call lil Reggie a lil bitch, is the little bitch. Sigrah still a turd though.