Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 7 1 15 24
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Directions to Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
After crossing the bridge into Tantroft Hollow follow the first trail on the right (over another footbridge). This will lead you to the cliffline between The Tectonic Wall (Routes 1-3) and Johnny's Wall (Routes 4-7). To reach the Tectonic Wall continue following the trail to the left. For Johnny's Wall make a right. Routes are listed from left to right for both cliffs.

Wall Sun: Late afternoon



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

LIDAR Trad 5.8
 
80  
Follow the cliffline 150 yds left of Tectonic wall. Scramble up to a belay ledge below a vertical crack that gives way to horizontal features near the top. Protect the crux and pull into the first horizontal then stem and chimney your way to the anchors. Steepness:

1

Frozen Bananas Trad 5.10b
 
40
From the approach trail of Tectonic Wall, keep walking along the wall to a cave. Once you're inside of the cave locate a flake leading to a roof on the right. Negotiate a start to reach the flake and climb it to the roof. Then jam and stem out the roof to anchors around the corner. Steepness:

1a

Excellent, Slithers Trad 5.9+
 
40  
Grunt, slither, and squeeze your way up the overhanging slot, with just enough footholds to keep it from being truly unpleasant. Several large cams up to BD 5 & 6 recommended. Can also be set up to toprope by climbing up and left from the Serpentine anchor. Steepness:

1b

Serpentine Sport 5.10b
 
45
The furthest left sport route on this section of wall, move left to a nice arete and balance your way to the chains. Steepness:

1c

Cottonmouth Sport 5.12b
 
40  
Steepness:

1d

Ball and Chain Sport 5.12b
 
45
Finesse your way up the face to a burly boulder problem complete with a big dyno and exciting run to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
arete-1

1e

Dime a Dozen Sport 5.11a
 
45
The further right route on this section of wall. Balancey, with a hard section in the middle that will feel harder than 11a for the shorties. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1

2

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky Sport 5.10b
 
60
Left-most route on wall. Enjoyable pumpy technical climbing on jugs, pockets, sidepulls and underclings to a steep finish. Classic. Steepness:
Tags
fun-2 : classic-1

3

Plate Tectonics Sport 5.10a
 
65
Route to right of Gettin´┐Ż Lucky. Tricky start to enjoyable pumpy climbing on huge plates. Classic. Steepness:

4

5th Bolt Faith Sport 5.10c
 
55  
15 ft right of Plate Tectonics. This route follows an interesting variety of holds. Pinches, slopers, plates, underclings, you name it. Fun moves. M Steepness:
Tags
slopey-1

5

Continental Drift Trad 5.7
 
80
Mixed route located between "Fifth Bolt Faith" and "Tall Cool One." Stem across or wiggle up the off-width to a ledge. Protected by three bolts. Then work up a wide chimney to the ring anchors. Camalots up to #4 and nuts. This route can also be easily set up as a top rope climb by climbing "Tall Cool One" and traversing 8 feet left to the top anchors. Steepness:

6

Tall Cool One Sport 5.9
 
60
10 feet right of 5th Bolt Faith on the left facing wall climb the flake to the 1st bolt. Move right on the face towards the crack and gain a dirty ledge. Pull the small overhang to climb dinner plates to the chain anchors. A good warm up for the area. Steepness:

7

Paraplegic Power Trad 5.7
 
60
Climb the crack in the arete 10 feet to the right of Tall Cool One and about 40 feet to the right of Fifth Bolt Faith. Work left and pull the roof, protecting with a slung block and out of horizontals. Keep it traditional and work up the wide crack and then left to the anchors on the Tall Cool One, or just clip the bolts and climb the face. Steepness:

8

59" DrillBitch Sport 5.10a
 
45
Left-most route on 5.10 Wall. Climbs vertical plates, edges and pockets. Jug up and right to the interesting finish. Steepness:

9

Bethel Sport 5.10a
 
50
Follow incut plates to a big move and juggy finish. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : pockets-1 : juggy-1

10

Spinner Sport 5.10a
 
50
Similar to Bethel with more difficult finish. Pull over the bulge on subtle holds to the anchors. Steepness:

11

Mancala Sport 5.10b
 
45
Start on the boulder right of "Spinner". Pick a path up the juggy plates to an interesting bulge and a fierce finish. Steepness:

12

Burning Bush Sport 5.11a
 
50
15 right of "Mancala" is another overhanging jughaul. Climb on up and crimp over a powerful bolted bulge below the anchors. Steepness:

13

Climbing with Crowbars Trad 5.7
 
50
Approximately 50 feet right of Johnny's Wall is a deep chimney system with a nice blocky dihedral and crack system. Steepness:

14

Thanks Holly Sport 5.8
 
45  
Right of the chimney/crack system is this slabby arete. Follow the big holds and stellar stances to anchors above a final ledge. Steepness:

15

2 Chicken Butts Sport 5.9
 
45  
15 feet right of the arete is a slabby wall loaded with more huge holds. Jugalicious. Steepness:

16

Mental Affair Trad 5.8
 
45  
8' right of tree on slab right of Johnny's Wall. Edge to ledge, pull up into crack, run up face to anchors. Protect as needed! Steepness:

17

Brain Stem Mixed 5.7
 
50
Hike ~100' right of Johnny's Wall until you reach a short striking dihedral. Shoot up the dihedral then wander out the roof to a bolt on the slabby face above. Steepness:

18

Grey Matter Toprope 5.10b
 
40  
Just right of "Brain Stem" is a thin slabby arete. The route climbs the face right of the arete. Make a few long reaches and enjoy some technical climbing to gain the juggy slab above. Steepness:

Comments

1
Huggybone said on November 22nd, 2005
This wall does not stay sunny all day, just in the afternoon.
2
J-Rock said on December 9th, 2005
Huggybone is correct. On hot days this wall has morning shade and on cooler days it has afternoon sun.
3
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Cliff GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.73027, Longitude 83.63167
4
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2009
does this crag really stay dry when it rains... the guidebook says so, but thats not always the case...
5
pawilkes said on October 29th, 2009
most of the routes will stay dry in a light rain. If its been raining for days or is pooring hard or at an angle they'll get wet