Practice Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 5 3 17 25
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Directions to Practice Wall

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
The following routes are located on the private property of Liz and Rick Weber. Please visit www.muirvalley.com for complete details pertaining to the location of the property. Please respect the landowners' rules by completing a release form available at www.muirvalley.com/release.html before climbing on the land. The directions below begin from the parking area for Muir Valley. The directions to the parking area have been left out to promote a visit to www.muirvalley.com to understand the details of climbing on the property. To reach the routes located at Joe Ponder Branch Hollow, turn right into the first parking area. Follow a steep foot path to the valley floor. Cross the creek and follow the first trail on the left to Joe Ponder Branch Hollow. Routes 1-8 are on the Washboard Wall to the left. Routes 14-25 are on the Practice Wall to the right. The others are located between the two walls. After crossing the main creek (Smokey Fork) take the trail on the left and continue into Joe Ponder Hollow. When the trail comes to a junction turn right and continue to the Practice Wall. The trail will meet the cliff between routes #8 and #9. Routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Creeping Elegance Sport 5.11a
 
3.22 45ft

2

Dragon's Tail Mixed 5.3
 
2.83 60ft

3

Dragon's Mouth Sport 5.6
 
2.94 55ft

4

Crescent Moon Sport 5.10a
 
2.13 35ft  

5

Crescendo Sport 5.8+
 
2.72 40ft

6

Another One Fights the Rust Mixed 5.9-
 
2.00 35ft  

6a

A Happy Ending Sport 5.7
 
3.33 40ft  

7

The Handout Sport 5.11d
 
4.20 30ft

8

Slabalito Sport 5.7
 
1.67 20ft  

9

Shawty Sport 5.8
 
1.89 20ft  

10

Low Exposure Sport 5.9
 
2.28 25ft  

11

Short and Sweet Trad 5.7
 
2.65 20ft

12

Slither and Squeeze Trad 5.2
 
1.58 20ft

13

Kate's 1st Trad Lead Trad 5.1
 
1.53 20ft

14

Acrophobiacs Anonymous Sport 5.4
 
2.62 25ft

15

Yu Stin Ki Pu Sport 5.5
 
2.41 20ft

16

Sweet and Sour Trad 5.5
 
2.88 20ft

17

Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni Sport 5.7
 
2.72 20ft

18

Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken Sport 5.9
 
2.60 25ft

19

Beta Spewer Sport 5.10b
 
3.47 20ft

19a

Smear Tactics Sport 5.11b
 
2.40 50ft  

20

BDSM Trad 5.10b
 
3.09 25ft

21

Night Foxx Sport 5.11d
 
4.40 60ft  

22

Sheet Rock Sport 5.11d
 
3.57 65ft

23

Beastly Traverse Mixed 5.11a
 
2.67 90ft

Comments

1
512OW said on June 3rd, 2007
There are two short bolted routes between Low Exposure and Another One Fights...
2
Anonymous said on July 9th, 2007
Two routes to the left of Low exposure that are not in the onide guide, both about 5.6/5.7, as well as a closed project to the left of Dragon's tail.
3
SCIN said on July 9th, 2007
They've been added. Thanks.
4
merrick said on October 15th, 2007
Thanks Rick!! This is an excellent place to bring beginners!!!!
5
Buster said on December 31st, 2007
How come you don't have pictures of this awesome cliff in here?
6
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2009
another bolted route starting on the ledge above Beta Spewer. Not listed here.
7
heacocis said on October 23rd, 2009
Please stay off routes here with red tags. Some of them are finished being bolted but just not sent yet, and some of them are not finished being bolted or I need to re-work something on it. So far, red tags hanging on the first bolt have been pulled off twice, 10 of my quickdraws have been stolen, and there appears to be chalk on a route that is not even finished being bolted. The people doing this must know better (i.e. not the 'average' Practice Wall climber) since these routes are all at the least 11s.
8
heacocis said on November 20th, 2009
The route on the ledge above Beta Spewer was bolted and sent by Jim Taylor over the summer. The name is Smear Tactics. He suggested the grade of 11b. It has a pretty technical start and finishes with good movement on jugs and crimps.
9
pawilkes said on November 20th, 2009
so is "Smear Tactics" open then? are there other routes still in development to avoid out there as per the post from Oct 23?
10
heacocis said on November 20th, 2009
Jim told me that Smear Tactics is indeed open. I wasn't there for the FA, but I helped him finish and work the route, so I assume what he told me is true. I've got a couple other routes there that are closed, and all are marked as such. Climber's right of Night Foxx is Sheet Rock, which has a permanent chain extension on the first bolt. Climber's left of the main wall, up on the second level, is The Handout, which starts on the boulder in the cave. This may or may not have a red flag on it, but I wrote "route closed" at the start. Please stay off this as I need to move a bolt to a safer location. Finally there is "Happy Ending", which is a second pitch finish of Another One Fights the Rust. This should have a red tag on it at the belay ledge. Thanks for asking.
11
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2010
Does anyone know anything about the routes that are on the far right side of the wall that you get to with the new trail? Is that a different wall?
12
Steve_RRG said on April 18th, 2010
There are several new routes on the far right end of Practice Wall, but I don't know the names. We did the two longer routes on the far right end. I would say the right one is a 5.8 and the one just left of it is maybe 5.9. There are also several shorter routes on a ledge above and to the left.
13
rockrat2008 said on July 11th, 2010
The routes all the way at the end of the trail (2 lower/4 on the ledge) are on Guide Wall. I was up there over the 4th of July week and talked with the guy that bolted them. This is also listed in the online guidebook.
14
Rx2Climb said on October 9th, 2014
Would it be stupid to solo some of these with a crash pad? 20 ft seems like a highball boulder problem to me. Thoughts?
15
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2014
You're a pompous piece of shit. These climbs are meant to teach people how to be safe and learn the basics of rock climbing. Seeing a dbag like you solo even the shortest of climbs places a bad seed of being unsafe in their minds.
16
Rx2Climb said on October 9th, 2014
Wow, anomymous. You're so helpful. Now I am definately going to go solo these climbs. Thanks for the advice.
17
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2014
might want to read the Muir Valley rules and regulations manual before you bring in the 60 Minutes film crew there, stud
18
Cocoapuffs1000 said on October 9th, 2014
Yawn, more scathing comments from someone who's too chickenshit to log in. What anonymous MEANT to say was that if you're going to lug your rope and gear down here anyway, you're better off using that than a crashpad. 20 feet is still easily high enough to get hurt, and you're going to feel pretty dumb if you eat shit on a bolted 5.6.
19
Rx2Climb said on October 10th, 2014
I was actually interested in peoples' thoughts on this. Remember my original post: "Would it be stupid to solo some of these with a crash pad? 20 ft seems like a highball boulder problem to me. Thoughts?" If it is against the rules I understand. I just got a new bouldering pad and was looking to put it to use, but will check out somewhere else. Also I would like to point out that anyone posting anonymously is not entitled to an opinion and can go to Hell.
20
Sandymalone88 said on October 10th, 2014
Take a hike through the woods bud. Other things to boulder besides sport routes at practice wall.
21
Rx2Climb said on October 10th, 2014
Point taken. I guess it would be stupid to risk a 20 ft fall for some V0 problems. Also I found this Muir rule. Not sure what height exactly consititues close to the ground, but if I am down there I should just rope up. "8. Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in Muir Valley. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in Muir Valley are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that finish close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in Muir Valley without written permission by the owners.
22
njclimber said on April 23rd, 2017
What is the overhanging seam past the last 2 routes all the way on the right?