Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 2 - 18 20
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Directions to Bibliothek

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
Continue walking past Animal Crackers Wall for a few hundred feet until you reach a steep ravine near a large ampitheater. Walk down the sandy ravine and cross a small stream near the bottom. Hike a short distance up and around the corner you'll reach an overhanging wall with several bolted lines. The routes Tea at the Palaz of Hoon through 100 Years of Solitude are located on this main wall from left to right. To reach American Psycho through A Confederacy of Dunces continue walking past the main wall about 100 feet.

Wall Sun: Morning to early afternoon



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

A Prayer for Owen Meany Trad 5.6
 
1.25 30ft

2

100 Years of Solitude Sport 5.11a
 
3.79 55ft

3

Who Pooped in the Park? Sport 5.11c
 
3.27 55ft

4

The Giver Trad 5.6
 
2.11 0ft  

5

The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber Sport 5.10b
 
2.91 45ft

6

The Stranger Sport 5.11d
 
3.37 55ft

7

Everything That Rises Must Converge Sport 5.11d
 
3.89 60ft

8

Resuscitation of a Hanged Man Sport 5.11b
 
3.50 65ft

9

All The Pretty Horses Sport 5.11c
 
3.77 70ft  

10

No Country for Old Men Sport 5.11b
 
3.48 65ft  

11

The Unbearable Lightness of Being Sport 5.11c
 
3.95 70ft

12

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man Sport 5.11b
 
3.67 70ft

13

The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock Sport 5.11c
 
3.56 65ft  

14

Tea at the Palaz of Hoon Sport 5.11b
 
3.03 60ft

15

A Confederacy of Dunces Sport 5.11c
 
2.58 70ft

16

The Fury Sport 5.11c
 
4.00 70ft

17

The Sound Sport 5.11c
 
2.45 65ft

18

East of Eden Sport 5.11d
 
3.69 40ft

19

Lolita Sport 5.12a
 
3.50 40ft

20

American Psycho Sport 5.11a
 
2.45 0ft

Comments

1
pkananen said on September 6th, 2007
I seem to remember the far left climb labeled as the 11b, and the far right 12a. Am I wrong about that?
2
pkananen said on September 6th, 2007
I seem to remember the far left climb labeled as the 11b, and the far right 12a. Am I wrong about that? I think this wall is going to be classic.
3
redpointron said on September 6th, 2007
some miscommunication between rick weber and i resulted in the ratings being inverted. the online guide has the names and grades correct now. of those routes that are open, "the unbearable..." is just to the right of the large tree (the leftmost open route as of today). "100 years" is the rounded arete on the far right. josh and i will be trying to get the other climbs up and open a.s.a.p.
4
pawilkes said on April 24th, 2008
what are the sun/shade conditions like? none of the maps are up to date enough for me to make a good guess
5
pigsteak said on April 24th, 2008
right now, sun until about 1 pm....
6
JR said on May 20th, 2008
This area reminds me of the Torrent Falls 11 wall. Every single route feels 11b/c regardless of length or designated grade. Let the rhetoric begin. "This route should be 11d because of that move. No, this one should be 11b because it is ten feet shorter. No, this one should be 11c because the start is slippery."
7
pigsteak said on May 20th, 2008
no doubt JR..I couldn't agree more.....The Sound, The Fury, Confederacy of Dunces..I bolted them all, and every one of them felt identical in difficulty.....I was thinkning of the Bib challenge. Starting on the left or right, send every route in order down the wall in a day....once the final 5-6 lines get put in, then would be a good training day no doubt.
8
pigsteak said on May 26th, 2008
btw, Lolita is to the left of East of Eden. the far left route is Batemana's, and is a project.
9
Meadows said on August 18th, 2008
did you guys actually read all those books?
10
goodguy said on August 18th, 2008
At least one of us did!
11
redpointron said on August 18th, 2008
all of them EXCEPT "the sound & the fury" which kipp so elegantly divided in half. a couple are short stories and one is a poem. i majored in english and managed a bookstore. when i first saw the area i thought of the 11s at torrent (which are all one-word route names) and wanted to go the other direction (longer titles). the last two on the right side will likely be "tea at the palace of hoon" and "trout fishing in america".
12
pigsteak said on August 18th, 2008
I can't read higher than an 8th grade ;level, so that "One" person was not I.
13
redpointron said on August 18th, 2008
yeah...if piggie had insisted on his reading list it would have included "how to wear a kilt in kentucky (and not get killed)", "h & r block: the devil in the strip mall", and "ryan & trista's wedding album"
14
Meadows said on August 24th, 2008
And the Devil wears PraNa.
15
mpittdawg said on October 19th, 2008
going to be a great wall once people climb it more. Rock is still a little loose.
16
SCIN said on April 24th, 2009
Every 5.11 on this wall feels the same grade. Kind of like the 5.11 wall at Torrent.
17
said on May 24th, 2009
I've heard this wall stays dry in downpour? is that accurate?
18
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2009
Is this 300 yds from Animal Crackers towards Nellie Falls?
19
jdstic2 said on October 24th, 2009
start on the first bolt of 100 years then clip the second of who pooped in the park to climb 100 years of pooping in the park. solid 11
20
Andrew said on October 24th, 2009
Start on the first bolt of the Stranger and then clip the second Everything Rises, and continue diagonally up and left to climb Strange Old Hung Horses Rise and Converge in the Lightness of Being. Still 11c.
21
dnietosi said on March 30th, 2010
Are the routes in order? I cant figure it out. which one is the labeled 12a? I am confused
22
pawilkes said on March 31st, 2010
yes they are in order from right to left. The first route listed is on the hike in and then things are pretty straight forward. I think The Unbearalbe LIghtness of Being is marked with a silver tag at the base as a 12a but it has long since been downgraded.
23
Anonymous said on October 28th, 2015
Really cool wall! Does it usually seep? the starts to several routes on the right were all wet and it hadn't rained for a week+, would like to visit again wondered about the wetness
24
Chiyram said on March 7th, 2016
Great sustained overhang 5.11 climbing. Reminds you that not all of Muir is soft.