Purple Valley

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 18 5 8 31
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Directions to Purple Valley

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive to the very end of 9b which is 0.1 miles past the crossing near the parking for Indian Creek Crag (3.9 miles from the 9a/9b intersection). You will pass a road, which is blocked by a gate on the right, that leads to Board Wall. Either park at the very end of the road and risk getting blocked in, or park at a small turnout on the left just before the end. On the right(Northest) side of the road, across from the turnout, is a flat grassy area popular with campers. Walk to that area, then turn right and follow a faint path across a muddy rivulet to the base of a more recent logging road. Turn left and head up the muddy road until you near the wall. The large detached area of rock on the left is the location of "A Way of Life", "Delusions of Grandeur", and all climbs in between. At the point this detached area bisects the main cliff near an arete is where "Captain One Eye" can be found. Climbs on the right side of the detached block and those eastward are described first, then the left side of the detached block and climbs to its west are listed.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Coffee Talk Sport 5.10c
 
2.94 60ft

2

A Way Of Life Sport 5.10b
 
2.53 60ft  

3

Captain One Eye Sport 5.10a
 
3.53 70ft

4

What About Bob? Trad 5.10a
 
90ft  

4a

Candy Land Trad 5.10b
 
100ft  

5

Come in Your Lycra Sport 5.10a
 
4.31 45ft

6

Impossible Sport 5.12c
 
50ft  

7

Shish-kebab Trad 5.9
 
2.75 60ft  

8

Pebbly Poo Mixed 5.9
 
3.37 60ft

8a

It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy Trad 5.6
 
3.75 60ft

9

Delusions of Grandeur Sport 5.11b
 
3.94 60ft  

10

Maybe, Maybe Not Trad 5.9
 
2.67 70ft  

11

Til the Cows Come Home Mixed 5.12a
 
4.00 90ft  

12

Grunt Trad 5.8-
 
3.30 80ft  

13

Tour de Hooks Mixed 5.10d
 
2.75 40ft  

14

Hot Licks and Rhetoric Trad 5.8
 
3.67 95ft  

15

Pleasant Surprise Trad 5.11a
 
3.00 50ft  

16

Spinning Marty Trad 5.9
 
2.00 60ft  

16a

Ride the Coal Train Trad 5.10c
 
110ft

17

Into the Purple Valley Trad 5.8
 
4.37 95ft

18

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' Mixed 5.10b
 
3.12 40ft  

19

Big Crack Trad 5.7
 
2.57 40ft

20

The Love Shack Sport 5.11c
 
3.70 30ft  

21

Flaring Crack Trad 5.7
 
3.17 30ft

22

Off Width Your Head Trad 5.7
 
2.00 80ft  

23

Social Butterfly Trad 5.10b
 
3.17 25ft

23a

Me-yommy Bouldering V3
 
4.00 25ft

24

No Retreat Trad 5.10b
 
4.00 110ft  

24a

Anklebreaker Bouldering V2
 
2.00 20ft  

25

Burden of Dreams Trad 5.11c
 
5.00 80ft

26

Electric Cowboy Sport 5.11b
 
4.50 70ft  

27

Suckers at the Top Mixed 5.9
 
3.00 50ft  

28

The Bushman Trad 5.8
 
50ft  

Comments

1
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2005
so.....this is a 5 mile hike past where forest service road 9 is gated? why did they gate that anyway?
2
Ascentionist said on January 31st, 2006
Coffee Talk GPS: 37.9008N, 83.6379W
3
Crankmas said on November 20th, 2006
be prepared for a stream crossing like the Funk Rock approach- second stream crossing is washed out and blocked- adds very little to the approach time wise
4
Myke Dronez said on March 13th, 2008
"Across from the turnout" was confusing and maybe applied to a time when the road ended past the stream. Drove to the end of the road where it is blocked before the stream. Cross the stream before looking for the approach trail to the right (50+ yards).
5
Anonymous said on August 26th, 2008
Your damn right it was confusing directions. Path is unrecognizable in summer. After creek there is a small gravel area on right. Directly across from that is start of trail.
6
Anonymous said on August 26th, 2008
I think you mean to say the small gravel area is on your left and the trail is directly across from that. Unless someone moved Purple Valley.
7
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2008
the approach described in the guidebook is out dated. the road ends earlier than indicated, since the bridge collapsed. park at the bridge, walk across the stream then about 50 yards up there will be wooden pillars on the left side (look out for these, they are a little hidden) where the turnout used to be and the overgrown trail up to coffee talk is across the trail from the pillars. This is the trail they are referring to in the book, but someone said you could get to the west side of the wall if you follow the lost ridge trail.
8
Jeff said on April 11th, 2010
So after 12+ years of climbing at the Red, I finaly notice the intro to PV in the print guide where it says if you climb here in the spring, you'll see why it's called Purple Valley. Sweet! Cool beta, right?!! Well it's spring, and the redbuds are blooming like crazy. Purple Valley should be renamed Brown Valley.
9
jenbongo said on May 5th, 2010
Exactly, Jeff. We were there April 18th, and now it's Green Valley. We saw some purple flox near the parking area, and the redbuds on the drive in, but the view from the top - green.
10
Danny said on April 3rd, 2012
The road is blocked at the Indian Creak crossing so just park before that and walk a few more feet. There is a lot more purple phlox than red bud here.
11
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2012
There's a new route between love shack and delusions of grandeur, seemed low 10, maybe a 9, any idea what this is? There are 3 bolts and all gear looks new. Was a funny route. Also, Follow Annonymous (Sept 2nd) directions. Got lucky today and found it.
12
dustonian said on April 30th, 2012
maybe one of those old mixed routes got rebolted... "5.11 Jimmy..."?
13
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2013
There is a new route bolted to the left of the Anklebreaker splitter crack boulder problem. It starts up the arete then climbs past a small roof and then does a pretty heady traverse out right on very thin stuff. Maybe high 10 low 11 grade. Anyone have any idea about it? It's not in the new guidebook.
14
dustonian said on May 8th, 2013
Heard some unsubstantiated rumors that a bolt failed out here recently, resulting in a broken leg. Anyone have more info on this?
15
DrRockso said on April 10th, 2014
Directions: Drive until 9b is closed by a gate due to a washed out bridge across the creek. Park in a small camping area on the left or a small parking area before this on the right. Cross the creek and continue on 9b past a well defined trail on your right and continue a little further until you see another trail on your right. Take this trail all the way to the crag.
16
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2014
So they finally closed the last mile of 9b eh? Bummer.
17
Willy said on April 10th, 2014
No, it's still open all the way to old concrete bridge. Doesn't appear it's been open past there for quite some time
18
davidbr said on March 8th, 2017
Just right of where the approach trail hits the outlier is a chimney that goes at about 5.8 and takes gear to 12 inches. You can walk off.