Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.7 13 5 34 52
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Directions to Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Graining Fork Nature Preserve
This wall is in property owned by Graining Fork Nature Preserve. Be respectful.
Drive 6.2 miles south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 from the Junior Williamson Rest Area. Turn right into a large picnic area. Park and walk across the road to a trailhead straight across from the south entrance/exit of the parking area. Hike up the trail to the wall. You will probably see the obvious dihedral of Roadside Attraction as you near the wall. Please visit http://grainingfork.org for more information concerning climbing at Roadside Crag. You must obtain a permit at http://grainingfork.org/newpermit before climbing at Roadside.

Wall Sun: All day

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Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Roadside Attraction Trad 5.7
 
4.71 140ft

2

Runnin' Down a Dream Mixed 5.10a
 
3.70 75ft

3

Jump For Joy Sport 5.9+
 
2.45 50ft

4

Motha Trad 5.6
 
3.09 50ft

5

Fadda Sport 5.10a
 
3.26 50ft

6

Five Finger Discount Trad 5.8
 
4.14 50ft

7

Science Friction Sport 5.12c
 
4.33 70ft  

8

Hard Left Mixed 5.10a
 
3.50 70ft

9

Hemisfear Sport 5.11d
 
4.56 40ft

10

Home Is Where the Heart Is Mixed 5.12a
 
4.00 40ft

11

Mantel Route Mixed 5.10c
 
4.88 60ft

12

Headwall Sport 5.12b
 
5.00 90ft  

13

Wicked Games Sport 5.12d
 
4.00 85ft

14

Andromeda Strain Trad 5.9+
 
4.56 90ft

15

Milkin' the Chicken Mixed 5.11d
 
2.67 50ft  

16

A.W.O.L. Sport 5.10a
 
3.72 50ft

17

Battle of the Bulge Trad 5.10a
 
2.33 80ft  

18

Dragonslayer Sport 5.10d
 
3.55 50ft

19

Crazyfingers Sport 5.10c
 
3.84 50ft

20

Pulling Pockets Sport 5.10d
 
4.01 50ft

21

Synchronicity Trad 5.11a
 
4.47 50ft

22

Jersey Connection Sport 5.12b
 
4.03 50ft

23

Stay the Hand Sport 5.12a
 
4.29 50ft

24

Stay the Hand (Direct Start) Sport 5.12c
 
4.00 15ft  

25

Valor Over Discretion Sport 5.8
 
2.44 50ft

26

Psycho Killer Trad 5.10c
 
2.00 50ft  

27

Harder Than Your Husband Trad 5.11b
 
3.00 40ft  

28

Holly Golightly Trad 5.10b
 
3.00 0ft  

29

Scissors Sport 5.11d
 
3.32 50ft

30

Ro Shampo Sport 5.12a
 
4.58 60ft

31

Tic-tac-toe Sport 5.12b
 
4.19 60ft

32

Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure Sport 5.11d
 
2.50 100ft  

33

Strevels Gets In Shape Sport 5.12b
 
3.87 90ft

34

Wild Gift Sport 5.12c
 
4.83 45ft

35

Camel Toe Jockey Trad 5.9
 
2.20 40ft  

36

Way Up Yonder Sport 5.12a
 
4.03 95ft

37

Up Yonder Sport 5.11b
 
3.67 40ft

38

Sand Sport 5.11d
 
2.40 45ft  

39

The Return of Chris Snyder Sport 5.11d
 
4.81 95ft

40

Pine Sport 5.12a
 
4.31 95ft

41

Just Duet Sport 5.10d
 
3.63 70ft  

42

Kampsight Sport 5.9
 
3.45 80ft

43

Trouble Clef Sport 5.9-
 
3.62 80ft

44

Altered Scale Sport 5.9+
 
2.80 80ft

45

All Cows Eat Grass Sport 5.8
 
3.35 80ft

46

Strawberry Shortcake Trad 5.7
 
2.09 60ft  

47

Ledger Line Sport 5.7
 
3.00 0ft

48

C Sharp or B Flat Sport 5.7
 
3.37 60ft

49

Gumbyland Trad 5.3
 
2.93 60ft  

50

You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish Sport 5.10b
 
3.12 60ft  

51

I Didn't Know This Was The End Trad 5.7
 
3.33 150ft  

52

Chunnel Sport 5.13a
 
4.00 50ft

Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 23rd, 2007
Parking instructions in online guide needs correction. The instruction says look for large camping area. But it is posted with no camping signs. It is more like a large picnic area. But we found it yesterday anyway!
2
Lander said on January 6th, 2008
There are too many climbs on the Kampsite slab. It's confusing. My head hurts.
3
Anonymous said on January 24th, 2008
Grid Bolted Jerry Area 35. Just Duet 5.10d *** (S) 36. Kampsight 5.9 *** (S) 37. Trouble Clef 5.9- **** (S) 38. Altered Scale 5.9+ ** (S) 39. All Cows Eat Grass 5.8 *** (S) 40. Strawberry Shortcake 5.7 R ** 41. Ledger Line 5.7 *** (S) 42. C Sharp or B Flat 5.7 *** (S) 42a. Gumbyland 5.3 *** 43. You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish 5.10b *** (S)
4
V10Mike said on April 27th, 2008
Anyone know what those three routes are on the hidden wall below the Kampsight slab? How come they're not in the guide?
5
Don McGlone said on May 29th, 2008
I did a route Saturday that may or may not have been done before. It's hard to imagine that someone hasn't done it, but it's not in the guide. Some of the holds seemed clean out to a certain point, but was pretty dirty at and after the crux. Anyhow: Roadside Daydream 5.9+ R Climb Roadside Attraction to the anchors 25 ft. below the top of the cliff. From the anchors, traverse left following good ledges for feet to a thin, slightly rotten flake. Plug as much pro as you can get, then crimp to easier ground. Link up with Runnin' Down A Dream to top out. Nice exposure.
6
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2008
corpse...contrived..please resubmit to the proper bolting commitee for review..may not even consititute a REAL route. :)
7
Don McGlone said on May 29th, 2008
Yea I know, but I couldn't find any committee members anywhere. I drove down to MV and parked under the no parking sign and came looking for you with my dog, but to no avail. Besides, it's so hard to rap-bolt a traverse! :)
8
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2008
You didn't have the proper ID and parking permit my friend. And I can help you with the rap bolt traverse dilemma..I am good at putting bolts every two feet for safety.
9
mpittdawg said on June 13th, 2009
New start to the approach trail added today. It starts directly across the street from the parking lot now. It is further away from that curve that cars come roaring around and less steep. Please start to use this one so it can be further developed. Great job RRGCC!
10
pkananen said on June 14th, 2009
great job with the new trail location. much safer.
11
sgauss said on September 8th, 2009
Trying out my GPS...parking is at latitude 37.73335, longitude 83.65913
12
Anonymous said on September 17th, 2009
any info on the route just right of sand?
13
Jrodan said on September 9th, 2010
The guy bolting the route to the right of sand was working on it during the summer of 2009. He was going to call it "911 Truther" as a tribute to the conspiracy that brought down the world trade center. He was passing out literature about the cover up in between sessions of jugging the route to hammer off excess choss. He told me (referring to the group of conspiracy theorists), "We can't get into the New York Times, but we can get into the guidebook!" He was pretty close to being done bolting and cleaning, so I climbed it on top-rope; it was about as hard as way up yonder and still pretty chossy. Then the guy abruptly disappeared and it looks like he hasn't worked on it since. Very suspicious...
14
Anonymous said on February 8th, 2014
Why is it closed to the public?
15
Anonymous said on February 8th, 2014
The owners decided they were tired of sharing their private property and "just kinda wanted it for ourselves". Which is cool, because it is theirs and they can do whatever they like with it. But, it's a shame they lacked the balls to say that publicly and instead hide behind a multitude of excuses to blame the community.
16
Anonymous said on May 26th, 2014
No, that's not really cool. It would be cool if they bought some land and then bolted some routes themselves and decided they didn't want anyone to climb there. Instead, they buy an area that someone else spent there time and money bolting and the community enjoyed and then sectioned off what wasn't rightfully theirs just because they had the money to do so. It would be awesome if the government would take that land away from them and give it back to us!
17
Anonymous said on April 3rd, 2015
FUCK YEAH JOHN AND GRANT!!!! THIS SHIT IS ON PARTY AT ROADSIDE!! just kidding. Stay the hand, forever!
18
Raiden said on April 23rd, 2015
A permit is required to climb at Roadside and can be obtained here: http://grainingfork.org/gate-access-permit/
19
Daeris said on May 27th, 2015
I haven't gotten the chance to climb at Roadside yet, but I hope to shortly. Does anyone know, do some of these routes tend to stay dry on drizzly/rainy days, or is the whole wall a mess?
20
Anonymous said on May 28th, 2015
It can be hit or miss. Also NO DOGS allowed!! Or hammocks. But seriously, NO DOGs!!! Please read the rules so we don't lose this cliff for the seventh time. Thank you
21
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2015
So, is It open for climbing as long as we follow the posted rules?
22
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2015
A permit is required which can be obtained at http://grainingfork.org/newpermit/ please do not climb there without a permit.