Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.2 8 - 48 56
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Directions to Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive 7.5 miles south (towards Miguel's and Beattyville) on KY 11. There will be a gravel drive with a gate on the right. Information regarding access and permits as well as the rules of the property may be found at torrentfallsclimbing.com. All individuals accessing the property will be expected to sign a waiver and follow the rules as posted. Park only in the designated area (to the immediate left as you enter the parking area) and do not block any drive, structure or rental parking area. Walk up the drive towards a large cabin then head right, up the steps past a smaller log cabin. You will be at the base of the cliff near the "5.11" wall. Routes #45 and up are on the Via Ferrata property and hiking past the "Poopie Head" wall towards the Via Ferrata is trespassing onto their property. Torrent Falls is a privately owned business that allows limited access of its property to the general public for climbing and hiking. Inappropriate, noisy, disruptive, or obnoxious behavior will not be tolerated.

Wall Sun: Unknown

{show overview map}


Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Windy Corner (to first set of anchors) Trad 5.11b
 
4.90 70ft

2

Windy Corner (to topout) Trad 5.11b
 
100ft  

3

Sam and Terry's Line Sport 5.12a
 
80ft  

4

Smoke Screen Trad 5.9
 
1.00 90ft  

5

Impossible Choss Sport 5.12c
 
60ft  

6

Tourist Trap Sport 5.9
 
3.70 80ft

7

Last Resort Sport 5.10c
 
2.71 80ft  

8

Family Value Sport 5.10d
 
3.31 80ft

9

Rest Assured Sport 5.10a
 
3.39 60ft

10

About Five Ten Sport 5.11b
 
2.67 70ft  

11

It's Alive Sport 5.10d
 
3.35 55ft

12

Reanimator Sport 5.10b
 
3.56 70ft

13

Dark City Sport 5.11c
 
3.33 85ft  

14

Situational Awareness Sport 5.11c
 
2.67 70ft  

15

Paranoia Sport 5.13b
 
1.00 90ft

16

Hydro Shock Sport 5.12c
 
70ft  

17

Into The Mystic Sport 5.12c
 
3.55 85ft  

18

Neither Trad 5.11a
 
2.33 60ft

19

Torrential Sport 5.12c
 
2.33 70ft  

20

Burcham's Folly Trad 5.8
 
3.00 100ft  

21

Big Money Grip Sport 5.12b
 
4.43 70ft

22

Bare Metal Teen Sport 5.12a
 
4.86 80ft

23

Steelworker Sport 5.12c
 
4.88 80ft

24

Racer X Sport 5.12d
 
4.79 80ft  

25

Misfire Sport 5.11c
 
3.43 55ft  

26

Recoil Sport 5.11d
 
4.00 55ft

27

Receiver Sport 5.11b
 
4.17 65ft  

28

Centerfire Sport 5.11c
 
4.52 75ft

29

Bandolier Sport 5.11a
 
4.43 70ft

30

Wadcutter Sport 5.9+
 
3.63 50ft

31

Dream Of A Bee Sport 5.8
 
2.68 45ft

32

Hmmm Trad 5.2
 
1.50 50ft  

33

Cordelia Sport 5.8
 
2.49 0ft

34

Us and Them Sport 5.12a
 
4.09 70ft  

35

Del Boy Sport 5.11b
 
3.67 75ft  

36

Pork and Bondage Sport 5.10d
 
3.39 75ft  

37

Pocket Pussy Sport 5.10d
 
3.26 50ft

38

Sex Show Sport 5.11c
 
3.72 50ft  

39

Seek the Truth Sport 5.11d
 
4.56 50ft

40

Sport for Brains Sport 5.11d
 
3.48 60ft  

41

Ode To Poopie Head Sport 5.11b
 
2.87 40ft  

42

Poopie Head Sport 5.10c
 
3.07 40ft  

43

Stool Sample Sport 5.10c
 
2.81 40ft  

44

Rectal Exorcism Sport 5.11a
 
2.71 45ft  

45

G'sUs Sport 5.11c
 
4.00 80ft  

46

Onaconaronni Sport 5.11d
 
3.40 65ft  

47

Hoosier Buddies Sport 5.12a
 
3.63 65ft  

48

Hired Guns Sport 5.7
 
1.27 40ft  

49

Physically Strong, Mentally Awake, and Morally Straight Sport 5.5
 
1.50 30ft  

50

Livin' in the UK Sport 5.11c
 
3.67 65ft

51

Mad Porter's Disease Sport 5.11c
 
5.00 70ft  

52

My How Things Change Sport 5.11d
 
4.00 60ft  

53

Retroflex Trad 5.9
 
4.00 75ft  

54

Be Prepared Sport 5.8
 
3.08 40ft

55

The Last Boyscout Sport 5.7
 
2.67 40ft  

56

Stacia's Back in Town Trad 5.6
 
1.00 40ft  

Comments

1
Anonymous said on August 19th, 2004
'
2
haas said on March 17th, 2005
Actually routes 41-44 are further right then they are listed
3
docpolecat said on May 31st, 2005
What are the 3 bolted routes between "Physically Strong, Mentally Awake, and Morally Straight" and "Be Prepared"? Right around the corner. They look 80+ feet.
4
MSMITH said on January 8th, 2008
Does anyone know if Torrent has been reopened to the public? And if not, is there still climbing available at the RRGCC meetings?
5
512OW said on January 8th, 2008
It'll be reopened, but not to gym climbers :)
6
MSMITH said on January 8th, 2008
Looks like its back to sweatbands and tight pants for meeee.
7
Anonymous said on April 6th, 2008
Shrimp dicked Vanilla Ice wannabe ^
8
512OW said on April 7th, 2008
Could be, I guess, but your girl doesn't seem to mind....
9
MSMITH said on April 7th, 2008
ahahaha, yes.
10
mike_anderson said on May 23rd, 2009
Question: Is it OK to climb on routes 38 and up? When you walk through the amphitheater on the way to #38 there is a "Property Boundary" sign. Does that sign still apply, and if so, is the other landowner cool with climbers?
11
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
A farce to try and get into, consider it a private crag, open for money, and friends of friends. As a visitor from the uk proved impossible to use the computer book in system. Should be taken out of the guide. One of the busiest sundays of the year and 2 people climbing? Then overheard two locals speaking in Miguels, "You going to Torrent tommorrow? Hmmm I might do, I dont know etc.... Says it all. Hope this isn't an example of the future of climbing.
12
Meadows said on January 2nd, 2011
ACD: An example of future climbing is the PMRP and all that Access Fund is doing. By the way, the PMRP was made possible by the man who purchased Torrent, a once completely closed crag but now is his home so the climbing there is his backyard. The minor stipulations to access the crag ain't so bad.
13
aburgoon said on January 3rd, 2011
...yeah, well, consider that payback for the war of 1812.
14
dustonian said on January 3rd, 2011
which one was that again Andy?
15
aburgoon said on January 3rd, 2011
... the one that occurred in 1812.
16
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2011
I did a trad route to the right of Dream of a Bee, and to the left of Cordelia, and moved out right to the anchors of Cordelia to rap... i thought this was the 5.2 Hmmm..but looking back I see that Hmmm is further right......thought it was cool and fun.... Dru Mack
17
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2012
How can I become a friend of Dr.Bob's so I can climb free and unresrticted like his buddies? Can I get back the money I donated since Dr.Bob decided to help us climbers out by closing Torrent Falls?
18
anticlmber said on October 13th, 2012
You can start by not being an anonymous, dicklicking SOB. The money you so graciously gave went to purchase PMRP, where you can go. NOT Torrent. Bob bought Torrent with his money at the same time he was helping pay for the PMRP. But you're right, he's such a selfish asshole. Fuckfaces like you need to get your head out of your ass so that my foot can fit. Maybe then bob would let you play. With his balls.
19
Jeff said on October 13th, 2012
Nicely done anticlmber, good first post in 2 or 3 years. Hope you're just warming up.
20
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
I think only his friends get to play with his balls. Maybe you should retire Old Timer. Maybe you and bob can close some more cliffs for us. There should be an age limit on climbers. People like you are a waste of skin and a drain on resources.
21
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
The only old skin that drains resources is your mom's mouth on my cock.
22
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
How dare you! I'll wrap my dick around your neck and start you up like a lawnmower!
23
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
Does this tool even know why the area is closed in the first place? well in short answer ya tool, is city folk, punk disrespecting so called climbers that don't know how to act on private land in the woods, away from their home pissed off the original owners awhile ago- i'm glad Bob has kept it private- to make sure you tools can't f--k it up anymore- Go try golf or something else T
24
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2012
So "city folk" ruined it? The same city folk who donate money? The same city folk who bring in tourist dollars? Maybe you should stop excepting money from the city folk when they climb. Maybe someone should tell all the city folk they (and their money) are not welcomed or wnated at Rocktoberfest.
25
Spikeddem said on October 20th, 2012
Peeps need to chill out and not get so riled up about this.
26
anticlmber said on October 21st, 2012
please do. fuck, "city folk." i'd rape everyone of you in a deliverance style, pig squeal, ass rape if i could. hell, that might generate money since the majority of you are worthless, cumguzzling wastes of tommy hillfuck jeans and beamers. bring your ass down here and just expect the world to be given to you, drop the annon moniker and make yourself known. i'll be glad to drag you through a mudpuddle and stomp a hole in your ass any day. ANY DAY cocksucker. and spikedemon..... you ain't see riled up.
27
bob said on November 4th, 2012
Anon, why not contact me rather than a personal rant/attack? At least have the courtesy and honesty to identify yourself. Bob
28
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2012
Contact you for what? Get over yourself. You are not helping climbers by closing access,no matter what you and you friends think. Good way to get people to stop donating. I have an idea!! Maybe you could help us all out and buy more rock and close it to climbers,maybe even try to get donations to help make it possible. Dr.Bob,protecting access one closure at a time!
29
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2012
Go fuck yourself dickface. Torrent and the PMRP are open to the public today because of Bob. What's wrong, don't have the balls to identify yourself and get that ass you call a mouth beaten in? People like you have really made climbing in the Red a lame scene these days... a lot of worthless ingrateful motherfuckers with big mouths and zero class, waiting for mommy to lick their asses clean. .
30
Anonymous said on December 5th, 2012
Just to point out, routes #40 and up are now part of the via ferrata, so they aren't open for sport climbing. Dr. Bob, keep up the good work. I've stayed on the grounds a couple of times & I think its an incredible place. Many thanks for keeping it beautiful. ACD: If you ever travel from the UK again, paying to stay at Torrent is the best investment you can make in a trip to the RRG. -Matt.
31
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2012
Threatening people with physican violance really makes climbers look good. It looks like most of these posts were written by angry kids. Some people have been climbing for many years and should know better. It only makes climbers as a whole look bad.
32
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2013
Will it ever be open to the public again? Is this really a private playground for friends of the owner as posted above? Is this where donation money goes?
33
EricDorsey said on October 27th, 2013
It is open to the public and is very easy to get access to so please dont whine.
34
Saxman said on October 27th, 2013
This is a privately owned crag that the owner graciously allows people to register online and climb at during weekends. If you are active in the community, you get to climb here. As far as I know, no one who is positive and has donated a lot of time to make climbing better in the red has been denied access. If you are from out of town and can't make it on weekends then you can complain once you have sent the other 2000 routes in the red. The RRGCC does not own the crag and no money that goes to the RRGCC goes here. If you get to climb here, then yes, toss in a small donation. If you don't like any of this, tough. People are allowed to do with their privately owned land whatever they want, including only inviting people they know. If you think this is unfair, try climbing at Roadside.
35
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
it seems to me that the click on 'overview map' incorrectly identifies the climbs/is wrong. (?)