Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498 and follow for 1.2 miles to Bald Fork Road. Take a sharp right onto Bald Fork Road and follow it as it curves left toward a house. Do not turn right at the first fork. After 0.3 miles the road turns to gravel and heads down a steep hill. At the bottom of the hill (0.8 miles) is the parking area for The Motherlode. Park on the right in the grassy patch or in a smaller gravel pulloff a little further. Locate the logging road that leads uphill from the back of the big grassy pulloff. Take the fork which immediately turns uphill to the right. If you are headed to the Madness Cave or the Undertow Wall, take the first road to the right. Move around the hill, go down and back up while staying left on the main road. As you near the crest of the second hill, turn left on a single track path which ends near Team Wilson. If you are headed to the Buckeye Buttress, Warm-up Wall, or GMC Wall, continue uphill past the road for the Undertow Wall and veer off on the second road to the right. This track will narrow to a trail a few yards before reaching the rock near Twisted.

Wall Sun: All day

{show overview map}

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.

Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	Length	Picture
0 1	-1	One-eyed Willy Up the Back	Sport	27 5.11c	50 50ft	0
1 2	-1	Trad Sucker	Sport	25 5.11b	40 40ft	1
2 3	-1	The Chronic	Sport	32 5.12b	50 50ft	1
3 4	-1	Twisted	Sport	25 5.11b	50 50ft	1
4 5	-1	The Reacharound	Sport	34 5.12c	60 60ft	1
5 6	-1	Stain	Sport	34 5.12c	50 50ft	1
6 7	-1	Buff the Wood	Sport	32 5.12b	50 50ft	1
7 8	-1	Golden Touch	Sport	39 5.13b	45 45ft	1
8 9	-1	Heart Shaped Box	Sport	34 5.12c	50 50ft	1
9 10	-1	Overdrive	Trad	14 5.9	70 70ft	0
10 10a	-1	Leftomaniac	Sport	25 5.11b	70 70ft	0
11 10b	-1	Rug Muncher	Sport	28 5.11d	50 50ft	0
12 11	-1	Ball Scratcher	Sport	31 5.12a	40 40ft	1
13 11a	-1	The Cream Machine	Sport	19 5.10	60 60ft	1
14 11b	-1	All In	Sport	28 5.11d	60 60ft	1
15 12	-1	Three Wasted Bolts	Mixed	18 5.10b	50 50ft	0
16 12a	-1	Ben	Sport	24 5.11a	60 60ft	1
17 12b	-1	Laura	Sport	25 5.11b	70 70ft	1
18 13	-1	Crescenta	Trad	14 5.9	70 70ft	0
19 14	-1	Breathe Right	Sport	27 5.11c	60 60ft	0
20 15	-1	Injured Reserve	Sport	24 5.11a	60 60ft	1
21 16	-1	Trust in Jesus	Sport	25 5.11b	50 50ft	1
22 17	-1	Purdy Mouth	Sport	32 5.12b	70 70ft	1
23 17a	-1	Mr. Sandy	Sport	48 5.14c	70 70ft	0
24 18	-1	Take That, Katie Brown	Sport	39 5.13b	70 70ft	1
25 19	-1	Swahili Slang	Sport	34 5.12c	80 80ft	1
26 20	-1	So Low	Sport	32 5.12b	70 70ft	1
27 21	-1	Techno Destructo	Sport	32 5.12b	80 80ft	0
28 22	-1	Thanatopsis	Sport	46 5.14b	60 60ft	0
29 23	-1	Cut Throat	Sport	39 5.13b	70 70ft	1
30 24	-1	8 Ball	Sport	35 5.12d	70 70ft	1
31 25	-1	Snooker	Sport	38 5.13a	70 70ft	1
32 26	-1	Hot For Teacher	Sport	34 5.12c	80 80ft	1
33 27	-1	White Man's Overbite	Sport	41 5.13c	80 80ft	1
34 27a	-1	White Man's Shuffle	Sport	42 5.13d	0 0ft	0
35 28	-1	Cosmic Sausage	Sport	38 5.13a	100 100ft	0
36 28a	-1	Hell or High Water	Sport	34 5.12c	110 110ft	1
37 28b	-1	Transworld Depravity	Sport	45 5.14a	110 110ft	1
38 29	-1	BOHICA	Sport	39 5.13b	100 100ft	1
39 29a	-1	Last of the Bohicans	Sport	42 5.13d	125 125ft	1
40 30	-1	Flour Power	Sport	39 5.13b	100 100ft	1
41 30a	-1	Pushin' Up Daisies	Sport	41 5.13c	0 0ft	0
42 31	-1	Omaha Beach	Sport	45 5.14a	130 130ft	1
43 32	-1	The Madness	Sport	41 5.13c	120 120ft	1
44 33	-1	Fourty Ounces of Justice	Sport	38 5.13a	110 110ft	1
45 33a	-1	Buck Eye	Sport	39 5.13b	0 0ft	0
46 34	-1	The Sauce	Sport	32 5.12b	60 60ft	0
47 35	-1	Leave It To Beavis	Sport	35 5.12d	90 90ft	1
48 36	-1	Tuna Town	Sport	35 5.12d	85 85ft	1
49 37	-1	The Flux Capacitor	Sport	35 5.12d	95 95ft	1
50 38	-1	Harvest	Sport	35 5.12d	85 85ft	1
51 39	-1	Hoofmaker	Sport	38 5.13a	90 90ft	1
52 40	-1	Team Wilson	Sport	35 5.12d	85 85ft	1
53 41	-1	Resurrection	Sport	34 5.12c	80 80ft	0
54 42	-1	The High Hard One	Sport	35 5.12d	80 80ft	1
55 43	-1	Crime Time	Sport	35 5.12d	75 75ft	0
56 44	-1	Skin Boat	Sport	38 5.13a	80 80ft	1
57 45	-1	Convicted	Sport	38 5.13a	70 70ft	1
58 46	-1	Ale-8-One	Sport	32 5.12b	65 65ft	1
59 47	-1	Chainsaw Massacre	Sport	31 5.12a	60 60ft	1
60 48	-1	The Verdict	Sport	32 5.12b	70 70ft	1
61 48a	-1	Sam Krieg Will Bolt Anything (SKWBA)	Sport	31 5.12a	70 70ft	1
62 49	-1	Kick Me In the Jimmie	Sport	31 5.12a	60 60ft	1
63 50	-1	Burlier's Bane	Sport	31 5.12a	60 60ft	1
64 51	-1	Rocket Dog	Sport	32 5.12b	50 50ft	1
65 52	-1	The Low Easy One	Sport	32 5.12b	50 50ft	1
66 53	-1	Stella	Sport	28 5.11d	50 50ft	1
67 54	-1	Snapper	Sport	24 5.11a	50 50ft	1
68 55	-1	Stabbed in the Back	Trad	17 5.10a	80 80ft	0
69 56	-1	Scrambled Porn	Sport	31 5.12a	60 60ft	1

Comments

4 comments {add your own comments}

ashtray said on June 24th, 2007

The most bitchin' cliff. No doubt.

allah said on June 26th, 2007

for the old guys

Anonymous said on September 8th, 2008

Pack your toilet paper and tampons out of the Lode! It looks horrible over by routes 55-56. Burying, especially under a few leaves will not keep dogs and wood rats out of your crap and TP. Leave no trace!!!!!

heavyc said on October 27th, 2011

what is the deal with the bolted slab route between ball scratcher and three wasted bolts? somebody needs to claim the fa and post it

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

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