Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 6 2 36 44
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Directions to Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve, and at the crest of the hill, take a sharp right on Bald Rock Road (gravel road). There is a sign for a church here. The road will immediately fork left near a trailer. Take this left fork. Follow the gravel road 1.65 miles to a set of 3 entranceways on the right (about 0.1 miles past a road leading uphill to the right just past Bob Marley Crag). Take the second of the 3 entranceways. This is the last road you can take off to the right. If you were to pass this road you will come to a dead-end/turnaround in about 200 yards. Turn up the road and stay on it until you come to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and head up a steep hill. At the top of the hill, the road will curve sharply to the left. Stay on the road, passing a pond on your left, and continue up another steep hill. The road to Oil Crack Rock is directly to the right at the top of the hill. Most people back in here to make it easier to exit. Travel down this road for about 1/4 mile until you reach an oil well near a small parking area. Parking is a bit tight here so be sure to leave as much room as possible for others. Be sure not to block any wells when you park.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Checkmate Sport 5.11c
 
3.00 85ft  

2

Blood Rush Trad 5.10d
 
3.00 80ft

3

Sidekick Sport 5.11a
 
3.42 70ft

4

Blue Man Group Sport 5.10b
 
3.19 70ft

5

Paradiddle Sport 5.11c
 
2.50 80ft  

6

Alice Through the Windshield Glass Sport 5.12c
 
3.50 60ft

7

Skin Flute Sport 5.12a
 
4.67 50ft

7a

Crazy Game Of Poker Sport 5.11d
 
2.33 40ft  

8

Blue Plate Special Sport 5.7
 
3.26 50ft

9

Tool Pusher Sport 5.11a
 
3.60 60ft

10

Persian Gulf Sport 5.7
 
3.29 60ft  

11

Hey Crude Sport 5.9
 
3.28 60ft

12

Blankety Blank Sport 5.12a
 
5.00 80ft

13

Vandalism Sport 5.11a
 
3.44 0ft

14

Oil's Well That Ends Well Mixed 5.12a
 
2.00 70ft

15

Doughbelly Sport 5.11c
 
3.67 70ft

16

Greased Lightning Mixed 5.11a
 
4.00 90ft

17

A Clean Well Lighted Face Sport 5.14a
 
5.00 70ft

18

Skeletor Sport 5.14c
 
70ft  

19

The Shaft Trad 5.10d
 
3.00 130ft  

20

Killbilly Sport 5.12c
 
4.33 85ft  

21

Sweet Velvet Surrender Sport 5.12c
 
3.00 85ft  

22

Uncle Jedd's Revenge Sport 5.12c
 
4.00 90ft  

23

John Henry Sport 5.12c
 
3.43 95ft  

24

Lung Cookie Sport 5.12c
 
75ft  

25

Sonny Bono Sport 5.11c
 
3.00 80ft  

26

Toll Head Sport 5.12c
 
85ft  

27

Commitment Hour Sport 5.12c
 
85ft  

28

Feminine Hygiene Sport 5.12c
 
70ft  

29

Dipto Dotto Sport 5.12a
 
80ft  

30

Oil Crack Route Sport 5.13b
 
60ft  

31

Face To Face Sport 5.11b
 
3.33 70ft  

32

Cartel Sport 5.10d
 
3.20 60ft

33

Yellow Sodomizer Trad 5.9
 
4.25 60ft

34

The Embargo Sport 5.9+
 
3.00 75ft

35

Roughneck Trad 5.11a
 
3.00 50ft

36

Dip Stick Sport 5.11a
 
3.17 50ft

37

Scooby Doo Sport 5.10a
 
3.15 75ft  

38

Scooby Snack Sport 5.9+
 
2.70 75ft  

39

Shaggy Sport 5.10a
 
3.50 75ft  

40

Golliwog's Cakewalk Trad 5.9
 
3.00 90ft  

41

Intermezzo Sport 5.11a
 
4.00 90ft  

42

Images Trad 5.11d
 
4.00 60ft  

43

Hooky Pals Sport 5.8
 
1.80 80ft  

Comments

1
Mad_Russki said on November 24th, 2003
What is the route in between The Shaft and Killbilly?
2
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2003
It was originally bolted, but never climbed by Kelly Gorter. He asked me to rebolt it about two years ago. I re-bolted back in the summer. It is called Free Range Chicken. It seemed like tricky 11.d to me. Since the route goes up and around a blunt arete to a steep slab the rope rubs against the coarse rock. There is really no rope drag while climbing, but when you lower or TR, there is. The rope doesn't run over any sharp edges, just high friction rock. Not your average RRG route. Worth doing. Terry Kindred
3
hoss said on April 25th, 2004
anyone know what the name/grade of the two bolt sport route near persian gulf? It's a real pile my group pulled/kicked off several large holds which almost landed on the belayer. It seemed like 5.8 but is getting progressively harder after all the holds fall off. Also there is a definate ground fall if you fuck up the second bolt.
4
mcrib said on September 26th, 2005
Will this place ever get reopened?
5
DHB said on April 1st, 2009
why was it closed? And yeah, will it ever reopen?
6
Wes said on April 2nd, 2009
It was closed because we do not own the access to the cliff. Will it ever reopen? I hope so, and there have been, and are currently people working with the landowners to make that happen. So, give thanks that there are people who are working on your behalf, even if you don't know it...
7
gripster said on July 13th, 2009
i kick myself every time i am at the gorge for never going here while it was open, it sounds like a bad-ass area. is there anything that us peons can do to help regain access?
8
pawilkes said on July 16th, 2009
Gripster: Giving money and time to the Coalition would help.