Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 - - 5 5
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Directions to The Oasis

From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south on KY 11 for about 9.0 miles (1.4 miles past Torrent Falls) to the town of Zachariah, just before the Lee County line. Turn right onto the winding KY 1036 and drive 2.0 miles. Just after a fenced-in oil drilling yard, you will see Big Bend Road. Continue past Big Bend Road for 0.1 miles to Sun Oil Company parking lot. On its right side, near the road, is a very steep gravel road. Drive 0.4 miles down the road (ignoring the turnoffs) to an obvious cliff on the right with a spacious pullout.

Wall Sun: Afternoon sun



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Finnegan's Ladder Sport 5.11b
 
25  
On the extreme left side of the rock, past a low roof and swampy section is this diminutive route. Grab pinches and slopers as you ascend the bouldery, pumpy face. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-2 : slopey-1 : fun-3 : stout-1 : short-2 : bouldery-2

2

Buzz Sport 5.11b
 
50  
On the wall to the right of the drainage are 4 bolted lines. This one is on the left and requires some steep pockets and crimps to a big reach at the end. Steepness:

3

Hum Sport 5.11c
 
50  
On the middle sport climb, scamper up a hard start to a huge wrap-around pistol grip. More jugs lead to the Fixe anchors. Steepness:

4

Paddy O'Keefe's Walking Shoes Sport 5.11d
 
50  
On the right side of the center face and left of a mossy crack system is a deceivingly steep face. Use bullet hole pockets and tracking for the feet to boulder the initial section, then finish on a final, steeper section. Steepness:
Tags
sharp-1 : pockets-1 : beautiful-1 : technical-1 : shady-1

5

Manzanita Sport 5.12b
 
85  
Just right of Paddy O'Keefe's Walking Shoes is this longer, steep climb. Begin by climbing a mossy crack then step up into a sea of holds and start choosing. Continue that game being careful not to grab exploding holds until you reach a shallow hueco. Pull out of the hueco and pump to the chains. Steepness:

Comments

1
Gaar said on September 8th, 2004
Approcah is fine. A good car could make it in no rain. All the ruts have been filled with gravel. Just a little steep.
2
Horatio Felacio said on September 27th, 2004
This is quite possibly the worst crag I've been to at the red. Similar to the crappy, loose .11's at The Zoo. Wouldn't be worth the trouble if it wasn't 30 feet from a car.
3
chriss said on March 2nd, 2006
Doesn't get in the sun until a little after 2pm. The four 11's are worth the trip. Place is much better than HF makes it out to be.
4
Yasmeen said on January 1st, 2008
Was there yesterday... the progression of the sun is a little different in the winter. By about 2pm, Finnegan's Ladder was in the sun. By about 3pm, Buzz and Hum were also in the sun. Paddy O'Keefe's Walking Shoes and Manzanita never saw the sun.
5
said on May 23rd, 2009
We went today and never saw the sun good pockety climbs
6
caribe said on October 25th, 2009
The road down to the Oasis is now fixed. You can get there easily with a plain vanilla all wheel drive.
7
dustonian said on July 25th, 2013
Road is in grim shape so plan on hiking in from 1036. Wall gets sun around 3-330 in summer.
8
Ascentionist said on February 2nd, 2015
This area is now within the Multi-County (Off-Road) Park being purchased by Powell, Estill, Lee and Wolfe Counties. Climbing will be allowed, but technically its not open yet. There is also a significant (300 acre) parcel of private land very close to this area. Future development will not be allowed on the private land, but once the park is open climbing will be encouraged.
9
Catawaba said on February 20th, 2017
Whats the drivability to here? Could a FWD car/suv make it?
10
Anonymous said on February 20th, 2017
Front wheel car could not make it and I wouldnt really take an SUV down there either. Less than a five minute walk from the road.