The Gallery

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 5 1 36 42
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Directions to The Gallery

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Park in the Sore Heel Hollow parking area, follow the road uphill from the parking area, passing the turn off for the other crags, walk down a hill, cross a foot bridge and follow the new trail. The trail will split near the cliff face, go left for "the tribute" and the routes to left of it. Right for Happy trails routes to the right of it. The routes are listed from the far left side of the wall.

Wall Sun: Morning

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0

Crimpy and the Brain Sport 5.9
 
50
Begins on left most line where trail meets cliff. Start on jugs and angle right up to a spicy crimp and sloper section. Finish on slab to the anchors. Steepness:

0a

All Draws & No Brains Sport 5.10d
 
45  
Right of Crimpy and the Brain. Begin with an undercling and sidepull to bump up over the low roof to the face. Move up through ledges and pockets to larger holds near the finish. Steepness:

1

No Brain, No Pain Sport 5.10b
 
40
Just before leftmost end of cliff, locate a pocketed face 95 feet left of huge cave. Levitate to sharp starting holds, then work right to a corpulent flake. Paddle up a steep pocketed face to a ledge. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-3

1a

Dain Bramage Sport 5.10d
 
80
Right of No Brain, No Pain. Start on powerful pockets to ledge. Move off roof jugs to seam that leads to another ledge. Traverse left carefully and then ride the arÍte up to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
arete-3

1aa

Short by a Foot Sport 5.10c
 
40  
Climb edges and crimpers on a highly featured face to a long move and then a mantle to a ledge. Steepness:

1b

Starry Night Sport 5.12a
 
65
Crazy-steep line with permadraws just past the choss arch right of Dain Bramage. A mellow intro gains extrance to mega-pumpy jug reefing. Steepness:
Tags
shady-1

1ba

Bottle Infrontome Sport 5.10d
 
60
15ft left of Frontal Lobotomy. 40ft right of Starry Night. Yank jug to jug up a steep face, through a juggy roof then up a wide crack peppered with jugs. Steepness:

1c

Frontal Lobotomy Sport 5.10c
 
65
75ft right of Dain Bramage at far right side of cave. Stick clip 1st bolt so you don't fly off starting ledge. Pull a hard overhanging start to comfy ledges, transition back to face following bolt line. Recommend extended draw at B4. Steepness:
Tags
slopey-1

1d

Thin Skin Trad 5.10b
 
35  
A crack in the dihedral just left of Black Canvas. Steepness:

2

Blank Canvas Sport 5.12c
 
60
Walk 50 ft. left of Banksy to locate an arete and mini dihedral. Begin with tough moves the continue up past multiple cruxes. The tree behind is not an issue. Steepness:
Tags
bouldery-4

2a

Banksy Sport 5.12c
 
65
Walk 100 feet right of Blank Canvas to locate this recent striking crimpy addition marked by a half-moon shaped black stained rail. Excellent solid crimps and powerful moves. Steepness:

3

Crude Awakening Sport 5.10b
 
60
50 feet left of DaVinci's Left Ear. Endure the oil saturated rock at the start to find an enjoyable slab rife with overzealous tick marks courtesy of the FA. But if it rains before you get there, all bets are off on your ability to onsight measly 10B. Steepness:

3a

Clair Obscur Sport 5.11b
 
85
Walk 50 feet right of Crude Awakening to locate this line which serves up a wide variety of movement up a wide black streak of rock. Steepness:

4

DaVinci's Left Ear Sport 5.10b
 
60
This line is the furthest bolted line on the leftmost side of the wall. Climb the face making use of inconspicuous underclings along the way. Steepness:

5

Smack Dab Sport 5.11b
 
50  
Climb the vertical face 10 feet right of the previous line. The top section is often wet. Steepness:

6

Different Strokes Sport 5.11c
 
50  
Move 30 feet right from Smack Dab to this line which begins left of a wide chimney. Climb the enjoyable face making use of sidepulls and pinches the whole way. If you've found a horizontal hold then you must be on a different route. Steepness:

7

Random Precision Sport 5.11b
 
60
Move 30 feet right to locate this amazing technical line which begins 15 feet right of a wide chimney. Begin with a tough and balancey start and continue up the face making use of precise foot placements and the random good hold along the way. Steepness:

8

Stucco nu Trad 5.11+
 
0
This route ascends the obvious dihedral 15 feet right of Random Precision. Steepness:

9

Zen and the Art of Masturbation Sport 5.12d
 
70
Next line right of Stucconu. Begin with an easy start then quickly transition to heinous crimping interspersed with mellow pocket climbing to reach the upper headwall. Try to get a shake then tackle the overhang to reach a jug. Trend left to hide in a large hueco for a bit then creep out to take the finishing jugs to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
offwidth-1 : dynamic-2

9a

American Graffiti Sport 5.12d
 
85
Between Zen and The Shocker lies this great face climb containing multiple cruxes and varied climbing. Steepness:

10

The Shocker Sport 5.14b
 
70  
Just right of American Graffiti is another great face climb for the double digit boulderers. Equipped by Troy Davison. Steepness:

11

Dark Side of the Flume Trad 5.9
 
0
Climb the chimney and hand crack 100 feet right of the previous line. Steepness:

12

Weak Sauce Project Sport Grade Unknown
 
0  
Closed Project. Just left of Gold Rush. Steepness:

13

Gold Rush Sport 5.11d
 
70
Walk right and around the corner from the wide crack to an overhanging and well featured face. This line is on the left side of the face and begins with a low roof and dirty start. Pull over the roof on good jugs to gain the plated face. Pull on plates and good edges to a less featured and more overhanging section near the top. Get a good shake and crank through big moves on smaller edges to a surprise ending. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-3 : crimpy-5

14

Mosaic Sport 5.12c
 
60
This line begins on a low ledge 20 feet right of Gold Rush. Follow a thin seam then angle right and continue up the face near the left margin of a black and orange streaked wall. Steepness:

15

All That Glitters Mixed 5.12c
 
0
Walk right and around the corner from Mosaic to this striking right-angling crack which has a bolt near the beginning. Crank through the lower crux move then enjoy asthetic crack climbing to the anchors. Steepness:

16

Calm like a bomb Sport 5.13a
 
70
The next bolted line right of All that Glitters. Boulder though OK rock to a seam, tackle a hard boulder problem, catch a rest, then finish with one more bouldery section to the chains. Shares anchors with Break the Scene. Steepness:
Tags
fun-4 : technical-8

17

Break the Scene Sport 5.12a
 
0
Walk right from All That Glitters past a large tree and locate this bolted left-angling dihedral. Steepness:
Tags
dihedral-2

18

The Tribute Sport 5.13a
 
0  
The next bolted line right of Break the scene. Steepness:

19

All That Quivers Trad 5.10b
 
100  
Hike right of The Tribute to the bottom of the soggy gully and locate the offwidth about halfway up the face. Start in the mud and climb the broken up face toward the crack. Steepness:

20

Happy trails Sport 5.10d
 
75
Walk right from The Tribute and down a steep gully. Cross the gully and continue for a few hundred feet until you reach an iron cable extending from the top of a cliff to the ground. Step over the cable and walk about 50 feet further to locate the next bolted line left of a rounded corner. Climb past a low overhang on fragile rock to start. Pump up the face past many eyebrow-like holds and feet that disappear when you get above them. Steepness:

21

The King Lives On... Sport 5.10b
 
70
This line follows the next line of bolts just right of Happy Trails. Climb through edges to start then enjoy rounded sloping holds for most of the way to the anchors. Steepness:

22

Johnny B. Good Sport 5.11a
 
85
Move right from the previous line to locate this route which begins with a bulge leading to a low angled section. Tread lightly low angled rock past thin sidepulls to a severely overhanging section near the top. Crank out the roof on big jugs to a pocketed section just before the anchors. Steepness:

23

27 Years of Climbing Sport 5.8
 
65
The next bolted line to the right of JohnnyB. Good. Climb through a low angled face to an interesting feature just before an overhang. Desperado past the feature then pull through large pockets in the overhang to reach the anchors. Steepness:

24

Closed Project Sport Grade Unknown
 
65
The next bolted line, just past the wide crack. Red tag, and several hangers missing. Tina and Jesse's route. Please respect the red tag. Steepness:

25

Murano Sport 5.10b
 
75
The last bolted line on this section of cliff. Climb over a low roof, through plates to a cool slab at the top. Steepness:

25a

Guernica Sport 5.11a
 
65
Technical face leads to big moves on wild knobs up high. Starts 15 feet left of Brief History stop at the first anchor. Steepness:

25b

Guernica (to second anchor) Sport 5.12b
 
80  
Clip the first anchor on Guernica, rest/sack up, then continue up a ridiculously fun V4 boulder problem, trending slightly right with a big move and mantle top out. Clip fixed biners and lower off. Unclip the 4th bolt after clipping the 5th to reduce drag on the crux moves up top. Steepness:

26

A Brief History of Climb Sport 5.10b
 
75
Located at the far right at the gallery, after the unknown 10c, and just before the "oil pipe". Scramble up so-so rock to the high first bolt. Boulder past the next two bolts, then enjoy fun, steep climbing on good holds. Steepness:
Tags
steep-3 : classic-4 : beautiful-5 : juggy-7

27

Briefer History of Climb Trad 5.10d
 
80  
Trad line to the right of Brief History of Climb Steepness:

28

Knot Sure Sport 5.12-
 
65  
Start a few feet Left of Preacher's Daughter and climb the large flake and face to gain the ramp leading up to the real part of the climb. Easy and enjoyable climbing gives way to the desperately thin technical crux up top. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-4

29

The Preacher's Daughter Sport 5.11-
 
70  
Right of Briefer History of Climb is some jug and hueco swinging fun on semi-decent vertical rock. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2005
Confusing directions and difficult to locate routes.
2
Astroman said on May 2nd, 2005
I think "The King Lives On" and "Johnny B Good" are in the wrong spot. There is nothing but a strikingly blank face between Mosiac and the 5.12 corner. And "Mosiac" deserves at least 2 stars.
3
Astroman said on May 2nd, 2005
I think the name of the 5.12 corner is "All That Glitters." It's one bad-ass looking route.
4
Astroman said on May 4th, 2005
Still in the wrong spot. "Gold Rush" and "Mosaic" are right next to each other... I think "The King..." and "Johnny..." are way down to the right (past "Unnamed Sport Route")... I think...
5
Gaar said on May 31st, 2005
To the right of Johnny there are 3 more climbs, they didnt have tags so i did two of them. the middle of the 3 has the 2nd and 3rd bolt chopped,dont know why. but it was!
6
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2005
This area needs some serious trailwork. The poison ivy forest trail was unbelievable.
7
hoss said on July 5th, 2005
Anyone know the route to the right of the one w/ chopped bolts. I was told it was an 11.b, it's super fun although it needs cleaning. I had four different feet explode underneath me.
8
climbon said on April 6th, 2006
Does anyone know the name of the climb to the immediate left of davinci's left ear....i believe that it is mid 10's or so but don't really know.....
9
Wes said on April 6th, 2006
Unless something new went up in the last few weeks, Davici's left ear is the last route on the left side of that wall. There is one other route farther to the left, but it is much harder then 5.10.
10
michellerossi25 said on September 19th, 2006
On the map of the Gallery, there are only three routes listed on the wall with Davinci's left ear, but there are actually four bolted lines. I think there is one to the right of that route that is not in either guidebook. Anyone know anything????
11
SCIN said on November 24th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
12
Josephine said on December 29th, 2007
route #22 should be "a briefer history of climb" - it's listed in the new guide book as a 10b trad route by blake.
13
JR said on July 30th, 2008
What is the route left of Gold Rush on the Mosaic wall??? Looks cool. Is it finished yet?
14
SCIN said on July 30th, 2008
Horatio and Lurk bolted it. Not sure if any of those weak sauce boys have sent it yet though.
15
staticjen said on July 21st, 2009
We were looking for a low key day and were wanting to try to onsight a bunch of 5.10s, we hadnt been to the far right end of the crag yet so we checked it out. Great area!! Long routes great moves well protected. The grades felt a little soft but when you want low key day its perfect!!
16
Cocoapuffs1000 said on April 20th, 2010
There is a dead tree hanging upside down above the cliff, bewteen Random Precision and Zen that looks like it is about to come down. Every time the wind picked up, we watched it slip a few inches. Watch where you sit, and for sure watch where you tie up your dog...
17
Anonymous said on July 26th, 2011
if memory serves the 3rd edition has an error in the wall topo, there is a discpreancy between the actual number of lines to the left of the hueco (the most left being DaVinci's) and an additional line being drawn on the wrong side of the hueco... also, for practical purposes there is nothing after Blank Canvas but some undeveloped rock, which at about 75 yards looks quite a bit like Stunning the Hog would have looked,
18
PatrickBecerra said on June 9th, 2015
Exercise caution at the pile of boulders just right of Mosiac and Gold Rush. Two copperheads were basking around there on 6/6/15. The dead leaves and stuff in there make the snakes very difficult to see. Stay on top of the large rocks and keep your eyes open people!
19
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2016
from right to left: gumby gallery, gallery, choss gallery. i hath spoken.
20
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2016
did that make you feel cool for a second?
21
pigsteak said on August 7th, 2016
there is a route between bain dramage and starry night...10c-ish...5 bolts and anchors..pretty nice little line.
22
DrRockso said on August 7th, 2016
Thanks piggie, surprised you got out climbing on ropes this year. This is the route https://www.mountainproject.com/v/short-by-a-foot/111910470
23
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2016
All the locals recommend this site above the mountain project, which has a offline guide tho rrc.com does not (boo rrc.com) I climbed a route which I couldn't find here. Via TMP it is called Nailbiter left of eureka on an arete.. Sport 5.12- 8 bolts 75ft. Wish I could save some pics of me climbing this route on here and list it.
24
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2016
Wrong crag moron.
25
Chiyram said on October 18th, 2016
Eureka is at Lady Slipper/Global Villiage
26
Anonymous said on December 22nd, 2016
Anybody have any info on the two routes on the wall left of Zen?
27
Anonymous said on December 22nd, 2016
A0's beaten in by Jake
28
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2017
Not sure where else to post this but climbing out here today and our children opened our bag and lost my watch with my wedding ring on it. If anyone happens to find it please contact me. My husband designed it himself and it means so much to me. Thank you! Also the 5.10d - All Draws & No Brains - had a loose/not glued in bolt that someone fell off from so we marked it off. Rock and bolt came off. Thanks!
29
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2017
There are plenty of holds for two routes left of Zen; but, there is only one. The route starting off the pedestal is an open project of 13a or harder. Please donate to the bolting fund when you RP and name the route. The climbing between Zen and this crimpfest would be really fun.... just a thought. jake
30
codydegen said on September 25th, 2017
Figured I would throw this here, too, I was climbing yesterday at The Gallery and lost my phone. It has to be somewhere between the first parking lot at the bottom of the big hill and the far left side of the Gallery (Crimpy and the Brain, No Brain, No Pain). I've set it to show a number to call if found. If you find it, please give that number a call or send me a message.
31
kafish2 said on November 14th, 2017
Went climbing today and realized I left my shoes and chalk bag at the Gallery on Thursday. If anyone found a pair of instincts and a black Prana bag let me know. Thanks.
32
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2017
I give the gallery two thumbs up. The walk there from and to the parking lot is a little lengthy but relaxing. Also there is a gorgeous scenic feature of this area that has a huge ceiling and it was very humbling to stand under billion year old rock!! Climb 27 years and Murano! :)
33
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2017
Wow . Guess that's the final word on the gallery folks . Go ahead and wrap things in this comment thread because it's downhill from here .