RRC Guide: Single Page

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.9	1			1
5.10	1			1
Total	2			2

Locate a pulloff on the right which has spring water coming out of a pipe. Park at the next pulloff on the right past the spring. Hike up the ridge of the hill on your right, and angle several hundred feet to the cliff.

1. Derby Day 5.10d *
Head left along the base of the rock to a flared hand crack.

FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Brumfield, 1988.
Rap anchors. 80 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
2. When Push Comes to Shove 5.9+ *
About 200 yards left of Derby Day is this prominent dihedral.

FA: Dave Veldhaus, Tom Williams, 1988.
Rap from tree. Crimps or Edges. 120 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.

Tunnel Wall

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.4	1			1
5.8	2			2
5.9	1			1
5.11	2			2
Total	6			6

For the next set of routes in the area, continue 0.6 miles up KY 77 from Spring Wall to Nada Tunnel. After the tunnel, about 200 yards and past an overhang on the left, park in a small pulloff on the right.

1. No Doz 5.4 *
Walk west back toward the tunnel from the pulloff. Pass under the large overhang and head uphill for 150 feet along the cliff to a left-facing dihedral.

Walk off. 30 ft.
2. Black Death 5.11b R
FFA: Greg Smith (1984).

FA: Larry Day, Ed Pearsall, 1980.
unknown. 60 ft. (R).
3. Negative Energy 5.11d ****
Drive through Nada Tunnel and park in the 2nd pulloff on the right just past the large overhang near the road (Black Death). Walk to the right of the large overhang and head up the hill. Locate a 10 foot dihedral leading to a ledge. Climb the dihedral to get to the ledge on which this climb is located. Walk to the left to locate this impressively steep crack in a pocketed wall.

FA: Grant Stephens, Martin Hackworth, 1984.
Walk off. Hands. 40 ft. #.5-#1 Camalots. Stays dry: Light rain.
4. Sideshow 5.8 *
This is the obtuse dihedral about 150 feet to the right of the small dihedral/scramble leading to the ledge on which Negative Energy is located.

FA: John Bronaugh, Stacy Temple, 1991.
Walk off. 55 ft.
5. Big Top 5.8+ ***
This is the dihedral 150 feet right of Sideshow.
6. Exhibition 5.9- **
This is the left facing dihedral seen near the road at the next sharp curve past the pulloff.

Walk off. Hands. 50 ft.

Grays Wall

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.7	1			1
5.9	2			2
5.12			1	1
Total	3		1	4

This wall is located opposite the backside of Military situated between the tunnel and the parking area for Military Wall. The Cove bouldering area can be found uphill from the route Coexistence. Drive 0.6 miles from the tunnel past a steep, right hairpin turn and look for a pulloff on the right. Hike uphill to the cliff on the left to a fairly obvious outcrop where the first route can be found.

1. On the Road 5.9- ***
This route is the dihedral just left of a small pinnacle.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens, 1984.
Rap from tree. 100 ft.
2. Hang Over 5.7
Hike left from On the Road to a wet gully. Climb the gully to a ledge with a rockhouse. The crack is on the left edge of the rockhouse.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Garland Clark, 1981.
40 ft.
3. Never Again 5.9

FA: Steve Faulkner, Chuck Keller, 1988.
4. Coexistence 5.12b ** (S)
From the parking area walk back up the road toward the tunnel to the hairpin. Hike uphill following a faint path and find this route on the rock to the right.

FA: Jamie Baker, 1993.
50 ft.

Military Wall

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.2	1			1
5.3	2			2
5.5	1			1
5.7	3			3
5.8	1			1
5.9	4		3	7
5.10	3	1	5	9
5.11	1	1	10	12
5.12			15	15
5.13			3	3
Total	16	2	36	54

Drive 1.0 miles east past Nada Tunnel on KY 77 to the bottom of the hill. Park at the large gravel parking lot on the left. Hike across the road and walk back toward the tunnel. You will see the trailhead for Military Wall and Left Flank on your left. To access Military Wall, walk across the small footbridge and take the trail as it branches off to the right about 100 feet after the bridge. Stays sunny: Late afternoon.

1. In the Light 5.10c *** (S)
As you near the cliff from the approach trail, a buttress will appear to the right. Three routes can be found on the short, pocketed, southwestern face of the buttress. This is the first of the three. Chains are hard to clip if you're short.

FA: Brian Maslyar, 2002.
Cold shuts. 55 ft. 4 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
2. Sunshine 5.9+ *** (S)
This is the route directly left of In The Light.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Steve Cater, 1991.
Cold shuts. Slopers. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
3. Moonbeam 5.9 *** (S)
This is the route directly to the left of Sunshine.

FA: Steve Cater, Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. Slopers. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
4. Decays Way 5.7 *
This climb ascends the face and crack to the left of Moonbeam. A variation to the route was climbed by Dave Lantis in 1995. It traverses right from the small ledge two thirds of the way up and angles up and right.

FA: Larry Day, 1970.
Rap from tree. 60 ft.
5. Top-roper's Route 5.2 *

unknown. 50 ft.
6. Stay Left 5.10a ** (S)
This is the bolted route to the left and around the corner from Moonbeam and almost on top of Mercy Miss Percy.

FA: Jeff Hughes, 1992.
Cold shuts. 50 ft. 4 bolts.
7. Mercy Miss Percy 5.9 ** (S)
This route is located directly opposite Possum Lips on a dirty looking face.

FA: Jeff Hughes, 1992.
Cold shuts. 50 ft. 4 bolts.
8. Possum Lips 5.10d *** (S)
This slab route is located to the right of the arete which marks the start of the overhanging pocketed face on which Fuzzy Undercling is located.

FA: Tom Fyffe, Charles Tabor, 1992.
Cold shuts. Slab. 40 ft. 4 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
9. Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b ***** (S)
This is the first route on the obvious overhanging pocketed face. It begins directly to the left of an arete. Boulder the start then pull on plates and jugs to the top.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Phil Olenick, 1990.
Cold shuts. Jugs. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
10. Tissue Tiger 5.12b ***** (S)
This route is located just left of Fuzzy Undercling. It is the second route from the right on the obvious overhanging pocketed wall. Climb through jugs and pockets then rest up for the high crux near the Africa shaped feature.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Phil Olenick, 1990.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
11. Gung Ho 5.12b ***** (S)
This is the bolted route left of Tissue Tiger. Boulder the start then climb through pumpy pockets to a nice rest. Crank through the high crux then clip the chains.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1990.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
12. Reliquary 5.12b **** (S)
This is the leftmost route on the obvious overhanging pocketed wall 30 feet right of Mule. Look for two kneebars on the route.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Williams, 1990.
Cold shuts. Slopers. 60 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
13. Mule 5.12c *** (S)
This route begins about 30 feet to the left of the overhanging face on which Reliquary is located. It begins in sort of a dihedral. Climb the dihedral to gain the face then travel through a couple of cruxes to the anchors.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed, 1990. Rebolted in 2005.
Cold shuts. Crimps or Edges. 90 ft. 8 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
14. The Legend 5.13b ***** (S)
This route is located about 10 feet to the left of Mule. Begin matched on two crimps then fire out boulder problems for the first few bolts. Continue up easier face to the anchors.

FA: Dave Hume, 1998.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 90 ft. 8 bolts.
15. Nagypapa 5.13d ***** (S)
This is the last bolted route on the overhanging wall before the dihedral in which Mental Health is located.

FA: Dave Hume, 2002.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 80 ft. 6 bolts.
16. Mental Health 5.11b ****
This is the dihedral directly left of Nagypapa.

FA: Rich Purnell, 1999.
Cold shuts. 80 ft.
17. Stacy's Farewell 5.5 *
This route is located left of Nudgepapa and around the corner. It's an easy looking crack behind a large tree.

100 ft.
18. Henry Kissinger's Glasses 5.10d ** (M)
This is the mossy crack with a large tree growing nearby left of Stacy's Farewell.

FA: Jeff Hughes, 1992.
100 ft. 5 bolts.
19. Forearm Follies (to first set of chains) 5.11d **** (S)
This climb is located around the buttress left of Henry Kissinger's Glasses. Super fun and boudlery for the first four bolts, then a nice rest and just hang to the (first set of) chains. Upgraded to 5.11d from 5.11b and split from the full, 12b version.

FA: Porter Jarrard.
Bouldery or Technical. 70 ft. 8 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
20. Forearm Follies (to 2nd set of chains) 5.12b **** (S)
This climb is located around the buttress left of Henry Kissinger's Glasses.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula, 1990.
Pockets. 100 ft.
21. Another Doug Reed Route 5.10c *** (S)
Scramble up to a ledge at the base of Jungle Beat to the start of this route.

FA: Doug Reed, Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
22. Jungle Beat 5.9+ *****
This is the huge dihedral and roof left of Another Doug Reed Route.

FA: Larry Day, Tom Seibert, 1979.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 180 ft.
23. Things That Go Bump In the Night 5.9 *
This crack system is located 50 feet left of Jungle Beat.

FA: Larry Day, Tom Seibert, 1976.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 175 ft.
24. Sailing Shoes 5.9 R
This is the crack on the end of the buttress which ends in the middle of the face. It is to the right of Thought It Was Bubbles.

FA: Martin Hackworth, 1984.
Rap from tree. 60 ft.
25. Nicorette 5.12a **** (S)
This is the obvious arete climb to the right of Sailing Shoes on the eastern corner of the buttress.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
26. Nicoderm 5.12b **** (S)
This route shares the same start as Nicorette but angles out to the right on the face. Sandbagged.

FA: Chris Snyder, 1993.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
27. Minumum Creep 5.11c **** (S)
This route begins in the offwidth to the right of Nicoderm then veers left onto the face. Climb the crack for the first couple of bolts then step left onto the face and fight the pump to the anchors.

FA: Chris Snyder, Brian McCray, 1993.
Cold shuts. Slopers. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
28. Not Worth It 5.9 ***
The obvious offwidth to the right of Nicoderm.

FA: Unknown.
Rap from tree. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 50 ft.
29. Danita Dolores 5.10b ** (S)
This route ascends the face a few feet to the right of the offwidth climb Not Worth It.

FA: Hugh Loeffler, Danita Whelan, 1991.
Cold shuts. 50 ft. 5 bolts.
30. Blade Runner 5.7 ***
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This is the handcrack in a shallow dihedral to the right of the bolted route Danita Dolores.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Harvey Johnson, 1982.
Rap anchors. Hands. 80 ft.
31. Hurricane Amy 5.11c *** (S)
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This bolted route begins in the crack of Blade Runner then angles to the left and up. Difficult clips. Currently closed 11/2002.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1991.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
32. Revival 5.13a (S)
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This route ascends the obvious arching pocketed face to the right of Hurricane Amy. Currently closed 11/2002.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Steve Cater, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
33. Beenestalker 5.10d ****
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This is the right leaning dihedral to the right of Revival. Variation: Belay from rap anchors then climb the overhang on the left. Stop at the ledge which is contigous with the top of the buttress and walk left to anchors or trees to rappel. John Bronaugh, Roger Pearson, 1988.

FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, 1983.
Rap anchors. Hands. 80 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
34. Thirsting Skull 5.12c (S)
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This is the pocketed face climb to the right of Beenestalker. Tricky fifth clip. Currently closed 11/2002.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1990.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
35. Jac Mac 5.11d (S)
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This route ascends the overhanging line of huecos a few feet right of Thirsting Skull. Currently closed 11/2002.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1990.
Cold shuts. Slopers. 50 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
36. Rad Boy Go 5.12a (S)
This route is closed(Temporarily closed for hardening for Tribes archaeological study). This route starts on a 15 foot ledge. The first two bolts are shared with Jac Mac. Currently closed 11/2002.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1990.
Cold shuts. Pinches. 50 ft. 7 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
37. Thought It Was Bubbles 5.8 R *
Right of In The Light andon the same face of the buttress is this overhanging left-facing dihedral. "R" rated.

FA: Chuck Keller, Steve Faulkner, 1988.
Rap from tree. 80 ft.
38. Government Cheese 5.11d *** (S)
This route begins directly in front of a boulder about 30 feet right of Rad Boy Go. Boulder to this first bolt then climb through slopers and sidepulls to the anchors.

FA: Mark Williams, Matt Flach, 1991.
Cold shuts. Sidepulls. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
38a. Parting Gift 5.11b ** (S)
Step a few feet right from Government Cheese to locate this route which climbs similar but is slightly easier. Start on a small boulder and mantle up onto a sloping ledge. Squeeze wide pinches up the overhanging face to hidden anchors above a bulge. Rapelling is recommended to avoid rope rub against the rock due to the unavoidable set back nature of the anchors.

FA: Terry Kindred, 2006.
Chains. Pinches. 55 ft. 5 bolts.
39. Left Turret 5.11b *** (S)
This route is located 50 feet right of Government Cheese. It begins in a left facing dihedral to the left of a low rockhouse with a manmade stone wall. Ascend the faint dihedral to a roof. Pull over the roof, figure out a move, then continue up the face to anchors. Please do not disturb the manmade wall. Remains of a saltpeter mine. Federally protected.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Shannon Langley, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
40. Right Turret 5.12a *** (S)
Begins near the manmade stone wall and to the right of Left Turret. Boulder up to the small roof then continue up easier face to the anchors. Do not disturb the stone wall. Federally protected remains of a saltpeter mine.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Shannon Langley, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
41. Subatomic Fingerlock 5.10a ***
THIS ROUTE IS CURRENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING. This is the obvious short fingercrack to the right of the bolted route Right Turret and the manmade stone wall. Do not disturb the manmade stone wall. Federally protected remains of a saltpeter mine.

FA: Unknown.
Cold shuts. Fingers. 30 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
42. Beene Material 5.10c
This is the next crack to the right of Subatomic Fingerlock. Begins as a very acute dihedral. Stop at the ledge or move up to the trees to belay. Variation: Climb the overhanging crack to the right of the original start. Unknown FA.

FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, 1983.
Rap from tree. 70 ft.
43. Nothing For Now 5.12a **** (S)
This is the bolted line to the right of Beene Material and a large rockhouse.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Shannon Langley, 1970.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 70 ft. 7 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
44. Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) 5.11c **** (S)
This is the bolted line directly to the right of Nothing For Now. Climb past the low roof then prepare for move after move of slopey fun.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Matt Flach, 1990.
Cold shuts. Slopers. 70 ft. 8 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
45. Special Impetus 5.12b ** (S)
This route is located a few feet right of BBBB on a gray, vertical face behind a huge hemlock. A 2.5 Friend is optional between 2nd and 3rd bolts.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Matt Flach, 1990.
Cold shuts. 70 ft. 7 bolts.
46. Green Gully 5.3
This is the gully 50 feet right of Special Impetus.

FA: Larry Day, 1970.
Rap from tree. 100 ft.
47. Pink Feat 5.11d R **** (M)
This route begins in the middle of the last face before the corner of the wall. Look for a U shaped ledge about ten feet up. Jump up to the ledge to start. Pull a tough mantel then continue up the technical face to a large ledge before the crack. Take a breather then crank through the fingercrack to another ledge. Continue up through a sketchy dihedral to anchors. Can also downclimb Green Gully for a descent.

FA: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders, 1983.
Chain Anchor. Fingers. 120 ft. Face is protected via one bolt and micro cams. Finger sized gear for the rest of the route. Small wires for the upper dihedral and 1 bolts.
48. Super Slab 5.12c ***** (S)
This is the face a few feet right of Pink Feat. Starts as a layback on the obvious left-facing flake.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 70 ft. 8 bolts.
49. All Things Considered 5.11d ***** (S)
This route begins directly around the obtuse corner from Super Slab. Start either on the corner and traverse to the right or climb the first few feet of G.I. and traverse left. Climb a blunt arete to anchors.

FA: Terry Kindred, 2001.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 55 ft.
50. G.I. 5.7 ****
This route begins in the offwidth slot to the right of All Things Considered. No longer "R" with the introduction of large cams.

FA: Tom Seibert, Martin Hackworth, 1974.
Rap from bolted anchors. 60 m rope required. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 130 ft. Standard rack plus #4 and #5 Camalots or equivalents.
51. Armed Forces 5.3 R
300 feet right of G.I. is a gully up which you can scramble to the top of the ridge. Hike 200 feet past this gully to a long and wide dual crack system. This crack system can be seen from the road.

FA: Jim Sharp, Ed Pearsall, 1979.
Rap from tree. 130 ft.
52. Etrier 5.12b **** (S)
This route is located about 300 feet right of Armed Forces on an obvious, overhanging pocketed wall above a low roof. Stick clip the first bolt and aid up to the roof to start.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Powers, 1991.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 50 ft. 5 bolts.
53. Daisychain 5.12c ** (S)
This route is located five feet right of Etrier and has a similiar "A0" start.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Jamie Baker, 1991.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 75 ft. 7 bolts.

Left Flank

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.8		1	1	2
5.9	1		1	2
5.10			2	2
5.11	2		5	7
5.12			7	7
5.13			2	2
Total	3	1	18	22

Drive 1.0 miles east past Nada Tunnel on KY 77 to the bottom of the hill. Park at the large gravel parking lot on the left. This is the trailhead for Martin's Fork and is marked so by a Forest Service sign. Hike across the road and walk back toward the tunnel. You will see the trailhead for Military Wall and Left Flank on your left. Walk across the wooden bridge then continue staight. The trail to Military Wall will branch off to your right about 20 feet after crossing the bridge. Continue ahead on the trail. Cross the stream with some stepping stones and hike up the hill using the obvious trail on your left. Follow the trail uphill for a few minutes to reach the base of Left Flank. If you cross another bridge, you've walked too far. Stays sunny: All day.

1. To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a *** (S)
From the top of the trail, head left and around the corner about 100 feet past several bolted lines until you reach this striking line on an orange face just left of a bolted arete.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder, 1992.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 60 ft. 7 bolts.
2. Too Many Puppies 5.12a **** (S)
This is the arete 25 feet right of To Defy The Laws of Tradition. Pull through a tough start then tech your way up the left face of the arete. Make the switch out right when you need to and enjoy the crux finish.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder, 1992.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft.
3. Fast Food Christians 5.10a ** (S)
Walk right and around the corner from Too Many Puppies to a slabby section of the wall containing a few bolted lines. This is the line furthest left and begins with a tough start.

FA: Terry Kindred.
Cold shuts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
4. Face Up to That Crack 5.8- *** (M)
Move right to the next bolted line. This route begins at about the middle of the buttress. Take a medium sized piece of gear to protect the runout or just run it out.

FA: Kevin Pogue, Elisa Weinman Pogue, 1992.
Cold shuts. Slab. 70 ft. 8 bolts.
5. Mr. Bungle 5.8+ ** (S)
This route ascends the blunt arete 25 feet to the right of Face Up to That Crack.

FA: Jeff Moll, 1992.
Cold shuts. 60 ft. 6 bolts.
6. Maypop 5.11a ** (S)
This is the face about 10 feet right of Mr. Bungle. The line has a history of popping holds which has made the grade a bit stiffer.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Matt Flach, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 4 bolts.
7. Brother Stair 5.9 ** (S)
This is the next corner 25 feet right of Maypop. Begin with a tough start then continue up the arete on somewhat sandy holds.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1992.
Cold shuts. 40 ft. 4 bolts.
8. Infectious 5.12b **** (S)
This route is located 75 feet right of Brother Stair on a blunt arete. The first bolt of this route is missing. Stick clip the second. Route is indicated by an obvious flake midway up. Tackle the start and keep the flame going until you reach the anchors.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 4 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
9. Birthday Party 5.9 R ***
To the right of Infectious is a right arching dihedral with a mossy slab to its right. This route ascends the slab using protection in an iron oxide pocket on the face. "R" rated route.

FA: John Lahr, Andy Shirk, 1996.
Rap from tree. 75 ft.
10. Unsportsmanlike Conduct 5.11c ****
This route is located around the next buttress from Birthday Party. Look for an obvious crack splitting an overhanging face. Start on the boulder in front of the route then step into the crack. Smudge over the low roof then pinch, lock, and crimp to reach a dirty rest. Try to get some gear in then climb easy but dirty rock to slings around a tree.

FA: Tom Souders, Mark Schorle, 1992.
Rap from tree. Off-fingers. 50 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
11. Stunning the Hog 5.12d **** (S)
This severely overhanging route is located right of Unsportsmanlike Conduct, Begin on the ledge. Bust through some of the coolest holds in the Red making a difficult clip along the way. Don't forget to breath.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 45 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
12. Sex Farm 5.12b **** (S)
Directly right of Stunning the Hog is this left angling route. Climb sustained moves through pockets and crimps to the anchors.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
13. Aquaduck Pocket 5.11b *** (S)
This route is located on the the wall 60 feet right of Sex Farm which overhangs in the beginning then turns vertical. Boulder the start then continue up easier face to the anchors.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Rob Turan, 1991.
Cold shuts. Pockets. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
14. Relaxed Atmosphere 5.11c *** (S)
This route is located about 10 feet right of Aquaduck Pocket. Begin on a ramp and boulder the start to gain the vertical and easier face.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Jamie Baker, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
15. Third World Lover 5.11c ** (S)
This route is located about 10 feet right of Relaxed Atmosphere. It is the rightmost route on this wall. Begin far left of the first bolt and gun through a sequential traverse on surprisingly not so good holds. Crank up and over the lip and relax on easier ground to the anchors.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Rob Turan, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
16. Hen-ry! 5.11b *** (S)
This route is located on a blunt arete 150 feet right of the previous three routes. Tiptoe and stretch through delicate moves to the anchors.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Shannon Langley, 1991.
Chains. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
17. Trad Boy Go 5.11a ***
This route is located 30 feet right of Hen-ry! and ascends the thin crack beginning in a black, spherical alcove. More fun than it looks.

FA: John Bronaugh, Tim Powers, 1993.
Rap from tree. 70 ft.
18. Table of Colors, direct start 5.13b ***** (S)
This climb is located 75 feet right of Hen-ry! in an overhanging wall with large boulders at its base. The original start begins just right of a 20 foot high seam and heads left at the shelf. The direct (and more difficult) start begins about 15 feet left of the seam.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1996.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 80 ft. 10 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
19. Table of Colors, original version 5.13a **** (S)
This climb is located 75 feet right of Hen-ry! in an overhanging wall with large boulders at its base. The original start begins just right of a 20 foot high seam and heads left at the shelf. The direct (and more difficult) start begins about 15 feet left of the seam.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams, 1990.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 80 ft. 10 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
20. Mercy, the Huff 5.12b **** (S)
This route shares the first bolt of the original start of Table of Colors, then heads right.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder, 1991.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 80 ft. 9 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
21. The Dinosaur 5.12d *** (S)
This route begins on top of a huge boulder 15 feet right of Mercy, the Huff. Move up and tackle a low crux by stepping right (short folks) or straight up (lucky folks). Save some gas for the high redpoint crux.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Tony Berlier, 1992.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 65 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
22. Wild, Yet Tasty 5.12a *** (S)
This route begins 15 feet right of The Dinosaur. Begin on the huge boulder and step into the crack system. Ascend the dihedral then move left onto the face. Climb up and through a powerful and crimpy crux to gain more positive holds for the rest of the way. Don't shake on the runout!.

FA: Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll, 1992.
Chains. Bouldery or Technical. 50 ft. 4 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.

Raven Rock

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.7	1			1
5.9		2		2
5.10	3	1		4
Total	4	3		7

Drive 0.7 miles east on KY 77 from the Martin's Fork (Military Wall) parking lot. Cross the steel bridge and park immediately on your right. Walk across the road and back across the steel bridge. You cannot miss Raven Rock to your right. It is the huge monolith. Turn right on the gravel road which leads to some houses. Follow the road which immediately curves right through the community and begins to head up to Raven Rock. To get to the routes, either bushwhack straight up to the cliff from the field or hike the road. For the latter option, stay on the muddy road to the backside of Raven, then walk up the deteriorated paved section. Continue along the switchbacks past an old gate until you near the top. When you reach a sharp right turn and the main face of Raven is on your left about 100 feet away, contour left to the rock. Stays sunny: Morning.

1. Nevermore 5.9+ R **** (M)
Walk left from the right end of the obvious face of Raven Rock past a small pinnacle. Locate a crack which leads to a flaring chimney capped by a small roof. There is a large boulder at the base of the route. Original line: First pitch: Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge with trees. Second pitch: Traverse left 15 feet to a handcrack leading up to a small tree. Angle right to a ledge with some shrubs. Third pitch: Climb the face to a small ledge then climb the flake to access the large ledge which extends across the face. Fourth pitch: Traverse right several feet until you are beneath a short blank section with three hangerless bolts. Either clip the sketchy bolts or protect the face with cams. Set a hanging belay at the base of the crack when you gain it. Fifth pitch: Climb the large angling crack to the top. Variation 1: Climb the ramp 30 feet left of the original start. To the right of the first belay, climb the face to the 2nd belay. Variation 2: Climb the crack mentioned in the original second pitch all the way to the main ledge. FFA: Bob Compton, Ron Snider, Martin Hackworth 1982.

FA: Bob Compton, Chuck Kifer, 1971.
Walk off. 200 ft. 2 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
2. Flying Circus 5.10d R **
From the belay on the main ledge after the third pitch of the original variation of Nevermore, walk left to find a crack in the overhang above. Face climb to the roof and pull into a small alcove over the lip. Follow Nevermore to the top. FFA: Ron Snider, Brent Lewis, 1983.

FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1983.
Walk off. 40 ft.
3. Groveling Earthworm 5.10d *
This route begins as a short fingercrack about 200 feet left of Nevermore. Climb the crack to a small ledge. Move left to a handcrack and climb this to the main ledge.

FA: Jack Dickey, John Bronaugh, 1984.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 120 ft.
4. Ravin' Maniac 5.9+ R * (M)
From the top of Raven Rock, lower down the face opposite the last pitch of Nevermore to the lip of a huge overhang above the main ledge system. Climb the face to the top using cinched wires on the hangerless bolts. Route is known to be caked with mud.

FA: Greg Smith, Sam Shields, 1984.
Walk off. 60 ft.
5. Macabre Poetry 5.10b * (M)
This route begins as a thin crack 150 feet left of Groveling Earthworm. Climb the crack to a face.

FA: Amy Shipman, Steve McFarland, 1994.
Cold shuts. 60 ft.
6. Premature Burial 5.7 ***
This is the crack left of Macabre Poetry.

FA: Steve McFarland, Jack Hume, 1994.
Rap anchors. 60 ft.
7. Dead of Winter 5.10b R ****
This route begins as an offwidth 100 feet left of Premature Burial. Climb the offwidth to a ledge and belay. Continue up the handcrack through a roof to the top.

FA: Jack Hume, Steve McFarland, 1994.
100 ft.

Lower Gorge Region

Tarr Ridge

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.7	1			1
5.8	1			1
5.9	1			1
Total	3			3

After a 2.0 mile drive past Nada Tunnel on KY 77, you will cross Red River on the steel bridge. Just past the bridge on the left is a gravel road variously labeled as Forest Service Road 23 or County Road 1067. Park at a pulloff on the right near the intersection and hike northeast and uphill to a prominent buttress that is sometimes visible from the road just before the steel bridge.

1. Good Intentions 5.8 *
Hike left along the buttress which faces the steel bridge to find this left facing dihedral.

FA: John Bronaugh, George Robinson, 1982.
Rap from tree. 60 ft.
2. Dead On Arrival 5.9+ *
Left of Good Intentions you will find a small right-facing dihedral. Continue past this dihedral to locate another dihedral near a large rockhouse.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Bob Compton, 1983.
Rap from tree. 110 ft.
3. Brain Damage 5.7
This route begins as a left angling ramp to the left of Dead On Arrival.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Doug Kennedy, 1981.
Rap from tree. 100 ft.

The Dome

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.1	1			1
5.4	1			1
5.6	1			1
5.7	1			1
5.8	1			1
5.9		1		1
5.10	2			2
Total	7	1		8

Drive 0.6 miles down the gravel road (County Road 1067)from it's intersection with KY 77 at the steel bridge. Just past a small stream is a gated dirt road on the right. Park here and hike the dirt road across a stream to a field. Walk to the far end of the field and head uphill on the right slope to the west face of the cliff.

1. Nickel Night 5.7 ***
This fist and offwidth crack is located on the left side of main wall about 5 feet from an obvious corner. Climb the wide crack which turns to an even wider fat flake toward the top. Traverse right at the top to reach a tree to rappel from for the descent.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Ralph Crawford, 1980.
Rap from tree. 75 ft.
2. After the Fact 5.4 ***
Move 25 feet right from Nickel Night to a wide chimney full of chockstones. Climb the chimney to a large ledge 35 feet up or continue past it to the next ledge about 50 feet up. Rappel from a tree to descend.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Bruce Many, 1979.
Rap from tree. 90 ft.
3. Private Duty Nurses 5.10a *
Walk about 30 feet right from After the Fact to locate a crack with a tree growing from it about 15 feet up. Climb over mossy low angled rock to the tree then continue up the more vertical flake. Belay from the next ledge then continue up a jam crack splitting the face to a belay in the wide chimney above. Traverse out a roof and into a right leaning dihedral. Take the dihedral to the top. Rappel with two ropes to descend. Bring large gear. Two rappels needed to get back down. FA (with aid): Martin Hackworth, Bob Baker, Harvey Johnson. They named the route Popsicle Toes (5.6 A1). 1979.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Tod Anderson, 1984.
Rap from tree. 160 ft.
4. Shakedown Street 5.9- R ** (M)
Walk right from Private Duty Nurses for 30 feet to an acute dihedral with a large blocky roof about 45 feet up. Climb over some loose ledges for about 15 feet to gain the short dihedral. Climb up through the dihedral to just below the large roof. Clip a bolt then move left and up through the slot and into a short left-facing dihedral. Belay from a ledge at the end of the short dihedral. Continue up another dihedral to a small ledge on the left. From the ledge, move up the face to the top of the wall. Rappel from a tree to descend.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Doug Kennedy, 1980.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 150 ft. 1 bolts.
5. Eye of the Storm 5.8 ****
This route is located 50 feet right from Shakedown Street and is marked by an obvious triangular roof about 30 feet up. Climb a crack up to the roof then step out right around the overhang and into a left-facing dihedral. Continue up the crack to a point where you can traverse right to some trees. Rappel from a tree to descend.

FA: John Bronaugh, Dirk Wiley, 1981.
Rap from tree. 90 ft.
6. Diana-Mo-Hum 5.6 ***
Hike right for about 250 feet while staying close to the base of the wall to avoid the rhododendron jungle. Eventually you will see a 25 foot boulder with an overhanging face and one of the most striking highball problems just awaiting a first ascent. In front of this boulder is a pair of dirtly looking low angled cracks. Climb the cracks to a ledge and rappel from a tree to descend.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Diana Ruth Finch, 1981.
Rap from tree. 40 ft.
7. The Woof Woute 5.10c *
Walk to the right of Diana-Mo-Hum up a shallow drainage. This route begins in a short crack beneath a 20 foot overhang.

FA: Jim Bailey, Chuck Keller, 1988.
Walk off. 80 ft.
8. Blue Belly Lizard Pinnacle 5.1 ***
Continue up the drainage mentioned in the description for The Woof Route to a dirty gully. Walk right 300 feet along a ledge to find a pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle any way possible. Provides a good view of Raven, Courthouse and Long Wall.

FA: Ralph Crawford, Martin Hackworth, 1980.
Rap from tree. Slab. 50 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.

Buzzard Ridge

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.10	2			2
Total	2			2

Drive 0.6 miles down the gravel road (County Road 1067)from it's intersection with KY 77 at the steel bridge. Just past a small stream is a gated dirt road on the right. Park here and hike the dirt road across a stream to a field. Hike straight ahead (northeast) along an old logging road which lines a ridge leading directly to the main corner of the cliff.

1. Fatal Vision 5.10c R **
This route is located on the foremost corner of the wall. Begin on loose blocks and ledges to gain a short face below a dihedral. Climb the face to the dihedral. The second pitch begins above the dihedral and ascends an overhanging crack to some more face climbing.

FA: Greg Smith, Martin Hackworth, 1985.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 110 ft.
2. Blood, Sweat and Fear 5.10b *
This route ascends the dihedral left of Fatal Vision.

FA: Greg Smith, Sam Shields, 1984.
Rap from tree. 50 ft.

Coffin Ridge

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.9	1			1
Total	1			1

Drive 0.6 miles down the gravel road (County Road 1067)from it's intersection with KY 77 at the steel bridge. Just past a small stream is a gated dirt road on the right. Park here and hike the dirt road across a stream to a field. Hike left (north) along Edward Branch to the confluence of the next major tributary on the right. Cross the tributary and bushwhack northeast to the cliff.

1. Pine Box 5.9 **
This route begins near the Southwest corner of the wall in a pair of cracks containing a shelf about 10 feet from the ground.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Keith Phelps, 1988.
45 ft.

Long Wall

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.5		1		1
5.7	3			3
5.8	5			5
5.9	8	1		9
5.10	5	1	3	9
5.11	1	1	8	11
V4				1
5.12			5	5
Total	22	4	16	44

Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 and pass a sharp left bend in the road. At the next slight bend to the right there is a very small pulloff on the left for parking. Across the road is the approach trail which uses an old obscure logging road that angles back sharply toward the direction from which you came. Head up the trail past a rock band and meet the wall at Cruisemaster. Stays sunny: Morning.

1. Cruisemaster 5.11b *** (M)
This route begins in the dihedral you see directly in front of you as the approach trail comes to an end. There is an overhanging hand crack above it. Climb the first pitch through a chimney, crawl across a ledge and set a belay. The second pitch ascends the handcrack to a set of bolt anchors. The third pitch climbs the face with one bolt to a small dihedral. The first pitch is a great 5.9 by itself.

FA: Tom Souders, Dave Veldhaus, 1986.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. Bouldery or Technical. 120 ft. 1 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
2. Cruise Control 5.9+ ***
This crack system is located on the face left of Cruisemaster. For the most part this is a face climb.

FA: Dave Veldhaus, 1986.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 90 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
3. Suction Lipectomy 5.8
This offwidth is located 75 feet left and around the corner of Cruise Control. Climb up easy ledges to get to the crack.

FA: Philip Babiak, Dave Kanapell, 1988.
Rap from tree. 90 ft.
4. Ralph and Bob's 5.7 *
This route is located in the corner left of Suction Lipectomy. You will see a set of cracks about 5 feet apart and some small trees on the upper ledge. Climb the first pitch to a ledge and belay. The second pitch ascends the wide crack to the top.

FA: Ralph Crawford, Bob Baker, 1977.
Rap from tree. 90 ft.
5. Long Wall Chimney 5.7 **
This large chimney can be found left of Ralph and Bob's just past a large overhang.

Rap from tree-60m rope required. Chimney. 100 ft.
6. Vector Trouble 5.10a ***
This route is located around the next corner from Long Wall Chimney. Look for an orange dihedral with a flaring crack at the top. Begin by climb the left of the two cracks to the ledge.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens, 1984.
Rap anchors. Fingers. 100 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
7. Boom! Boom! Out Go the Lights 5.10b ** (S)
This face climb is located 50 feet left of Vector Trouble.

FA: John Bronaugh, Stacy Temple, 1992.
Cold shuts. 70 ft. 8 bolts.
8. NEPA This 5.8- ***
This route is located just right of the dihedral which marks the beginning of Stand and Deliver. Begin by climbing a crack system to a ledge.

FA: John Bronaugh, Shannon Stuart-Smith, 1997.
Rap from tree. 90 ft.
9. Stand and Deliver 5.11c *** (S)
This bolted route begins in the dihedral left of NEPA This. Climb the dihedral then move left onto the face.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. 70 ft. 7 bolts.
10. Two Step 5.7 ***
This route is located a few feet left of Stand and Deliver and begins in a wide handcrack just before a rockhouse. Climb the crack to a chimney. Climb around the overhang on the left to a ledge. Continue up the overhanging crack to a ledge beneath a chimney which takes you to the summit. FFA: Tom Seibert, Martin Hackworth, 1988.

FA: Bob Baker, Martin Hackworth, 1977.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 100 ft.
11. Whip It Out 5.11d *** (S)
This short bolted route is located 30 feet around the corner from Two Step.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. 40 ft. 5 bolts.
12. Xanthic Dance 5.9- *
Veer to the right at the top of the approach trail and look for a shallow dihedral with a small ledge about 15 feet up. Climb this crack to the ledge and continue to the top.

FA: Martin Hackworth, 1984.
Rap from tree. 90 ft.
13. Five Easy Pieces 5.9- *
This route begins on top of a large boulder past a small dihedral to the right of Xanthic Dance. Climb either crack to a ledge then follow a ramp to a corner to belay. Continue up the corner to summit. FFA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, 1983. The original line traversed right near the top to a thin aid crack (5.5 A1).

FA: Martin Hackworth, Jeff Wurmser, 1977.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 130 ft.
14. Autumn 5.9- *****
This route is located about 200 feet right of Five Easy Pieces near a huge boulder. The crack ascends the flake on the left face of the wall in front of the boulder. One of the best hand cracks in the Red.

FA: Martin Hackworth, Tod Anderson, 1984.
Cold shuts. Hands. 80 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
15. Hot September 5.9 R ***
This angling flake begins at the base of Rock Wars and ends near the top of Autumn. Flake is hollow and thin in some places. "R" rated.

FA: Lou Gonano, John Long, 1985.
Cold shuts. 100 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
16. Souders Crack 5.11d *** (TR)
This route ascends the thin flake immediately left of Rock Wars.

FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, 1986.
Rap anchors. Fingers. 80 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
17. Rock Wars 5.10a *****
This route ascends the flake on the right side of the face in front of the huge boulder. 5.9+ to the first set of anchors. 5.10a to the second set. Second pitch FA: Tom Souders, 1986.

FA: Grant Stephens, Anthony Snider, 1986.
Rap anchors. Fingers. 80 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
18. Now I'm Nothing V4 **** (B)
This highball boulder problem ascends the face of the large boulder directly behind Rock Wars.

FA: Unknown, 1994.
Walk off. Bouldery or Technical. 20 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
19. The Gift 5.12a ***** (S)
This route ascends the orange face 40 feet right of Rock Wars.

FA: Bill McCullough, Tim Powers, 1990.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 70 ft. 9 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
20. Mailbox 5.8 **
This route ascends the left-facing dihedral 50 feet right of The Gift. Begin by face climbing the slab then move into the crack. Rappel from anchors on The Gift.

FA: John Bronaugh, Louis Petry, 1984.
Rap anchors. Fingers. 70 ft.
21. Yuk 5.9 ****
This splitter offwidth is located just right of Mailbox. FA done with a toprope. Rappel from anchors above The Gift.

FA: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders, 1984.
Rap anchors. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 70 ft.
22. Trinket Man 5.11d ** (S)
This route ascends the face left of the outside corner around the buttress and uphill from Yuk. 5.10a to the first ledge (4 bolts).

FA: John Bronaugh, Stacy Temple, 1992.
Rap anchors-double ropes required. 140 ft. 12 bolts.
23. Denial 5.12a *** (S)
Climb the first part of Trinket Man to the large ledge to access this route. This is the first bolted line 12 feet right of the arete.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 12 bolts.
24. Fire and Finesse 5.11d *** (S)
Climb the first part of Trinket Man to the large ledge to access this route. This route is directly right of Denial.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. Crimps or Edges. 60 ft. 6 bolts.
25. Slip It In 5.12a ** (S)
Climb the first part of Trinket Man to the large ledge to access this route. This route is directly right of Fire and Finesse.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 6 bolts.
26. Kazi and Mito 5.11a **** (S)
Climb the first part of Trinket Man to the large ledge to access this route. This route is directly right of Slip It In.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft. 6 bolts.
27. Game Boy 5.11c **** (S)
This route begins on the ground 50 feet right of the previous "ledge routes" and ascends the entire face. One of the longest bolted routes in the Red.

FA: Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh, 1992.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. Bouldery or Technical. 140 ft. 13 bolts.
28. Are the Pies Fresh? 5.12a **** (S)
This bolted line ascends the face 15 feet right of Game Boy. 5.11a to the first set of anchors.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Rap anchors-double ropes required. Crimps or Edges. 110 ft. 13 bolts.
28a. Are the Pies Fresh? (To the first set of anchors) 5.11c **** (S)

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Bolted Anchors. Crimps. 70 ft.
29. Back Door to Paris 5.10c *** (S)
This bolted line begins directly right of Are the Pies Fresh? and left of a large detached block.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. Crimps or Edges. 70 ft. 7 bolts.
30. B3 5.11b *****
This is the obvious splitter handrack that begins on top of the large detached block right of Back Door to Paris. Begin by climbing the first section of Perforator, then traverse left. Direct Start: Lead straight up the face to the base of the crack using small pockets for protection. 5.10c R Tom Souders, 1987.

FA: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders, 1984.
Rap anchors-double ropes required. Hands. 120 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
31. Perforator 5.10a ****
This route ascends the dihedral beginning on top of the large detached block to the right of the previous sport routes.

FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, 1984.
Rap anchors-60m rope. Hands. 120 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
32. Fear and Loathing In Nada 5.10b R ***
This route is located 200 feet right of Perforator past a low and wet area. Look for a plated face containing some cracks. Climb the face to a ledge and belay. Continue up a crack through a roof and finish in a dihedral. Third pitch FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984.

FA: Grant Stephens, Martin Hackworth, 1984.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. 180 ft.
33. Zen Master Dude 5.10a R *** (M)
NOTE: The following 4 routes all begin on the same ledge after the scramble up through the gully described below. From the previous route walk along the wall for about 100 feet, past an overhang, and locate a dirty steep gully that leads to a nice exposed ledge about 50 feet up. Carefully scramble up the gully to reach this ledge. From the ledge climb a short face (5.5 R) behind a big tree to a smaller ledge. Climb another short face to a larger ledge with a bolted belay. This ledge marks the start of the next four routes. Zen Master Dude climbs straight up from the bolted belay past a single bolt to the right, and ends at belay bolts.

FA: Dave Chenault, 2000.
Rap anchors. 40 ft. 1 bolts.
34. Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+ R **** (M)
Follow the directions for Zen Master Dude to reach the ledge where this route begins. From Zen Master Dude, traverse right along the ledge as if you're going to start Big Country. This route ascends the face about halfway through the traverse and is located just left of the blunt prow.

FA: Dave Chenault, Chris Chaney, Jason Burton, 2001.
Rap anchors. 45 ft. 1 bolts.
35. Nautical Twilight 5.8 X ***
Follow the directions for Zen Master Dude to reach the ledge on which this route begins. Traverse right from Accidentally Kelly Street a few feet and just right of the blunt prow. Climb the face. The low crux is well protected.

FA: Mark Jackson, 1986.
Rap anchors. 40 ft.
36. Big Country 5.5 R *** (M)
Follow directions for Zen Master Dude to reach the ledge on which this route begins. From Nautical Twilight, traverse right along the ledge while looking for the single bolt which marks Big Country. When you locate the route, climb up above some trampled vegetation to clip the bolt then move left to a blunt arete. From there, head straight for the summit. To descend, rappel from the top of the route back to the ledge. Traverse back along the big ledge left to the chain anchors beneath Zen Master Dude. From there rappel to the ground with a 60m rope. You can also walk off the wall to the left and come out near Whip It Out.

FA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, Grant Stephens, 1984.
Chain Anchor. Jugs. 45 ft. 1 bolts.
37. Rock Caddie 5.10a ** (S)
From the previous routes, hike 100 yards to the right and past a large rockhouse. This route is in the vicinity and ascends a short slab near an arete.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, Eric Szczukowski, Amy Szczukowski, 1992.
Cold shuts. 50 ft. 5 bolts.
38. The Snatch 5.11d * (S)
Walk about 100 feet right from Rock Caddie to locate this often wet route that begins on a small ledge. Climb the overhanging face which eases toward the top.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
Cold shuts. 45 ft. 5 bolts.
39. Feltch me 5.9
This climb ascends the left-facing dihedral about 40 feet right of The Snatch.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Beth Cocciolone, 1992.
bolt anchor. 30 ft.
40. Gladuator 5.12b ** (S)
This powerful sport route begins about 15 feet right of Feltch Me. Short but sweet.

FA: Nick Cocciolone, Eric Szczukowski, Amy Szczukowski, 1992.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 30 ft. 4 bolts.
41. Texas Tea 5.8+ ***
If you are just going to do this, or the next couple of routes, it is best to locate a direct approach from the road. Otherwise, hike about 250 yards right from the previous route to a large buttress. This route ascends a nice looking black dihedral on the buttress.

FA: Dave Veldhaus, Jim Knapp, Paul Kopona, 1987.
60 ft.
42. Block and Tackle 5.10d
Walk right from Texas Tea to locate this right-facing dihedral in suspect rock. Climb the dihedral to a ledge.

FA: John Bronaugh, Scott Hammon, 1994.
Rappel from fixed gear. 80 ft.
43. Sugar Daddy 5.9- R
Walk 300 feet right from Block and Tackle to another butress. This route ascends a dihedral on this butress. Climb the dihedral to a ledge then take a handcrack to the ending ledge.

FA: John Bronaugh, Terry Ferg, 1995.
Rappel from tree. 90 ft.

Pebble Beach

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.4	1			1
5.6	1			1
5.7	2	1		3
5.8	3			3
5.9	3	1	2	6
5.10	2	2	2	6
5.11	1			1
5.12		1	1	2
5.13	1			1
A2				1
Total	14	5	5	25

To reach Pebble Beach, drive 2.5 miles down County Road 1067 at its intersection with KY 77 near the steel bridge. You'll pass Long Wall on the way. Turn right onto Forest Service Road 9 just past a barn on the left. The road turns to gravel at this point. Follow the gravel road for 1.1 miles then park on the left just before a single lane bridge. You will see a National Forest Service kiosk at the pulloff. The trail is located directly across from the pulloff near a retaining wall. Thanks to the RRGCC, the trail is now an enjoyable hike. Follow the trail as it winds up the hill and ends just in front of the obvious pinnacle on which Arrowhead is located. Stays sunny: All day.

1. Broken Arrow 5.9- ****
This route ascends the chimney on the left side of the pinnacle on which The Arrowhead is located. FFA: Tracy Crabtree, Steve Faulkner, 1994 Originally done on toprope.

FA: Tracy Crabtree, Jeff Ashley, 1989.
Rap anchors. 50 ft.
2. The Arrowhead 5.7 *** (M)
This route ascends the southwest face of the obvious pinnacle at the end of the approach trail.

FA: Charles Tabor, Jeff Wilburn, 1987.
Rap anchors. 60 ft. 1 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
3. Beachcomber 5.4 *
This crack and chimney system is located between The Arrowhead and a huge overhang. Walk off 150 feet to the northeast.

FA: Geoff Manley, Charles Tabor, 1988.
Walk off. 130 ft.
4. Halloween A2 *** (A)
To the right of The Arrowhead and Beachcomber is a huge rockhouse with a crack in the roof. This route ascends the crack to the top of the overhang. May contain fixed pieces.

FA: Tracy Crabtree, Mike Norman, 1992.
Rap from tree. 70 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
5. Razorback 5.6 *
This route is the first crack encountered 200 feet right of Halloween past a breakdown in the cliff.

FA: Charles Tabor, Mark Strevels, 1987.
Rap from tree. 40 ft.
6. Versatile Universe 5.10d **** (M)
This route ascends the crack and face left of the detached flake that the trail passes under. FFA: Tracy Crabtree, Mike Norman, 1991 First ascent was done with a toprope.

FA: Tracy Crabtree, Mike Norman, 1990.
Rap anchors. 65 ft.
7. Roaming the Halls 5.7 ***
Just right of Versatile Universe is a big detatched pillar leaning against the main wall, which you must walk under to get to the rest of the routes. While between the wall and pillar in the "hallway", climb the handcrack in the main wall, using the leaning boulder for support where needed. Top out on the boulder and rap from fixed gear (recommended) or continue on the runout face and top out. 65ft. (40ft. if you bail ontop of the boulder).

FA: Jason Haas, Sarah Haas, 2001.
Rap from fixed gear. 65 ft.
8. Physical Attraction 5.10b ****
Hike through the hallway created by the detached flake. 25 feet past the flake is this offwidth and fist crack.

FA: Jim Link, John Whisman, 1989.
Fists. 80 ft.
9. Scabies 5.9+ ** (S)
This bolted line ascends the flake 40 feet right of Physical Attraction.

FA: 1993.
Cold shuts. Fingers. 30 ft. 4 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
10. Zambezi Plunge 5.8 ***
This handcrack is located in a small dihedral 10 feet right of Scabies. Climb the crack to a ledge with a large boulder and tree. Continue through the offwidth to the anchors on Ju-Ju. First route completed at Pebble Beach.

FA: Jeff Wilburn, 1987.
Rap anchors. 60 ft.
11. Ju-Ju 5.10b *** (M)
This route ascends the arete just right of Zambezi Plunge. Begin on the face right of the arete. A small cam protects the lower section.

FA: Charles Tabor, Frank Waters, 1989.
Cold shuts. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
12. Sundance 5.10c ** (S)
This route ascends the face 15 feet right of Ju-Ju near an offwidth. Climb the face with crimps and edges until you can move left to the finishing bolts on Ju-Ju.

FA: Tom Fyffe, Charles Tabor, 1989.
Cold shuts. Crimps or Edges. 60 ft. 5 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
13. Central Scrutinizer 5.9 **** (M)
Look for a piton in the middle of the less than vertical face capped by a huge roof. Climb the face to the piton then angle right to a bolt. Continue up the face taking advantage of bomber stopper placements along the way.

FA: Charles Tabor, Tom Fyffe, 1989.
Rap anchors. 50 ft. Stoppers and a Blue Alien for directly above the bolt and 1 bolts. Stays dry: Downpour.
14. Environmental Impact 5.7 ***
This route ascends the handcrack in the left-facing dihedral on the right side of the less than vertical face capped by a huge roof. 2 pitches.

FA: Charles Tabor, Jeff Wilburn, 1987.
Rap from tree-double ropes required. Hands. 130 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
15. Straightedge 5.12a ** (S)
This route ascends the vertical face just right of Environmental Impact.

FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1990.
Cold shuts. Crimps or Edges. 50 ft. 6 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
16. Reserved Seating 5.10b *** (S)
This arete climb is located right of Straightedge and an obvious offwidth on the outside corner of a pinnacle.

FA: Mike Norman, Tracy Crabtree, 1991.
Cold shuts. 50 ft. 6 bolts.
17. High Noon 5.12a *** (M)
This is the arete to the right of Reserved Seating.

FA: Jamie Baker, Stacy Temple, 1989.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 60 ft.
18. Brontosaurus 5.10b ****
This crack ascends the obvious, overhanging dihedral just to the left of Welcome to Ole Kentuck.

FA: John Bronaugh, Charles Tabor, 1988.
Cold shuts. Hands. 60 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
19. Welcome to Ole Kentuck 5.13a *****
Just to the right of Brontosaurus is this severe overhanging splitter finger crack that begins on a ledge 25 feet up. Climb the first part of Brontosaurus and traverse right on the ledge to reach the crack. Formerly known as Nazi Bitch Crack and first ascended with aid by Cliff Cooper in 1988.

FA: Steve Petro, 1995.
Cold shuts. Off-fingers. 40 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
20. The Seam 5.11c R ****
Directly beneath the overhanging splitter of Welcome to Ole Kentuck is this short, bouldery fingercrack. FFA: Jamie Baker, November 1987.

FA: Mark Strevels, 1987.
Cold shuts. Fingers. 25 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
21. Small Change 5.8 **
This route ascends the short flake 15 feet right of The Seam.

FA: Charles Tabor, 1989.
Walk off. Fingers. 25 ft. Stays dry: Downpour.
22. Big Money 5.9 ****
This dihedral with a small roof 20 feet up is located on the ledge above Small Change. Walk up around the corner and to the right of Small Change to find a small gully to walk up.

FA: Mark Strevels, 1987.
Rap from tree. 70 ft.
23. Berlin Wall 5.8 R **
This route is located 50 feet right of Big Money past a dihedral and around an arete. The route ascends an obvious plated face. FFA: John Bronaugh, 1988 First ascent was done with a toprope.

FA: Jeff Wilburn, Charles Tabor, 1987.
Rap anchors. 50 ft.
24. Blood Money 5.9+ ** (S)
Hike back down to the lower level from Berlin Wall and Big Money then 300 feet along the cliff. Pass a breakdown in the wall and when the wall increases in size look for a face climb with a couple of small roofs. Walking off left is another descent option.

FA: Mark Strevels, Frank Waters, 1992.
Rap Rings. Crimps or Edges. 50 ft. 5 bolts.
25. Punkin Head 5.9 R
This route ascends the A-shaped roof 150 feet right of Blood Money.

FA: Mark Strevels, Charles Tabor, 1989.
60 ft.

Pistol Ridge

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
4th	1			1
5.1	2			2
5.2	1			1
5.3		1		1
5.4	4			4
5.6	4			4
5.7	2		1	3
5.8	4		1	5
5.9	2		1	3
5.10	3		1	4
5.11	1			1
V3				1
V5				1
5.12	1			1
V6				1
Total	25	1	4	33

Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Park on your right and hike down 9B about 150 feet until you see the trailhead on your left. Follow the trail through a low limestone cliffband until you reach the base of the wall. Stays sunny: Late afternoon.

1. Spinnacle 5.3 R ** (M)
As the approach trail nears the cliff you will see a pinnacle. This route is located on the left side of the pinnacle. Climb ledges using the occasional bolt for protection and rappel from the anchors on It's a Wonderful Life.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Breitbach, 1994.
Rap anchors. 45 ft.
2. It's a Wonderful Life 5.9 ** (S)
This route ascends the arete on the front of the main pinnacle. 5.9 R to the top if you wish to top the route out.

FA: Erik Farley, Mike Dunne, 1997.
Cold shuts. 80 ft. 8 bolts. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
3. The X Files 5.6 **
20 feet right of the pinnacle is a crack system with an X formation midway up. Climb to the X however you want then continue to the top via a wide crack.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Breitbach, 1994.
Rap from tree. 65 ft.
4. The Misadventures of Nabisco County, Jr. 5.6
This wide and dirty crack is located 50 feet right of The X Files. Look for a leaning block at the base.

FA: Erik Farley, 1994.
Rap from tree. 65 ft.
5. Symbol Man V6 ***** (B)
Follow the directions to When Doves Cry but walk all the way through the cave and start the crack where it begins in a wide chimney. Undercling the crack, fingerlock out the right roof crack and throw to a handjam in the left. Make your way up into the chimney for a rest then reach down into the starting fists of When Doves Cry and take it to the end. Very cool. No gear required.

FA: Ray Ellington, 2002.
Walk off. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 50 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
6. When Doves Cry V5 ***** (B)
Hop down from the ledge that Crouching Tiger and Hidden Dragon begin from (assuming you are on the ledge) and walk around the cliff to the right. Follow the cliffline until you see a huge roof about 7 feet off the ground with an offwidth crack splitting it. Walk through the cave and start the offwidth where it is narrow enough for a fist jam. Climb all the way through until you can grab a jug 4 feet over the lip. Step off or continue to the top. Once described as "The offwidth version of The Crack House".

FA: Kris Hampton, 2001.
Walk off. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 30 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
7. April Flowers 5.8 *
Look for another huge detached block 200 feet right of The Misadventures of Nabisco County, Jr. Climb the left of three cracks to a ledge.

FA: Erik Farley, Alex Farley, 1994.
Rap anchors. Hands. 25 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
8. Leaves of Three, Leave it Be 5.4 **
This route ascends the crack directly right of April Flowers.

FA: Erik Farley, Alex Farley, 1994.
Rap anchors. Hands. 20 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
9. Trident 5.9
This route ascends the thin crack above the Three Muskateers. The rock is sharp, and the quality is poor. One can traverse over to a tree and rappel, or rappel off some seldom used slings, or downclimb. This route was climbed some time ago by John Bronough.

20 ft.
10. T. Rex 5.4 *
This is the offwidth directly right of Leaves of Three, Leave it Be.

FA: Erik Farley, Alex Farley, 1994.
Rap anchors. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 20 ft. Stays dry: Light rain.
11. People Gully 5.1 *
From Armed, wander 200ft to the right, down the cliff. Find a 50' cul-de-sac with mossy ledges. A sizable clean crack is near the right-hand wall. Climb the crack and jugs up to a rhodo garden. Wander up to the top if desired.

FA: Erik Farley, Kirk Fatool, David Fatool, 1992.
Rap from tree. 35 ft.
12. Land of the Glass Pinecones 5.6
Walk 110 feet right of Armed around a corner and up a small hill. Find a dihedral and chimney system with two cracks, a thin flake on the left and an offwidth on the right. Work up the two cracks to a ledge on the right, then climb the outside of a chimney with large holds. At the top, climb a short wall on the right to reach a large, talus-covered ledge with a low rockhouse.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Fatool, 1992.
Rap from tree. 50 ft.
13. Hidden Dragon 5.12c *****
This route ascends the splitter offwidth roof crack about 30 feet right of Crouching Tiger.

FA: Ray Ellington, 2001.
Rap from tree. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 50 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
14. Crouching Tiger 5.11b ****
Walk to the right of Armed about 150 feet to a dirty gully. Scramble up the gully which brings you to the top of the ledge above and to the right of Armed. On top of this ledge you will see two offwidth cracks splitting a roof. Crouching Tiger ascends the left of the two cracks.

FA: Ray Ellington, 2001.
Rap from tree. Wide Crack or Offwidth. 50 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
15. Armed 5.10b **
Hike left past the pinnacle near where the trail meets the cliff, through a boulder field, down a hill, then back up the hill towards the cliff. When the trail meets the cliff again, walk to the left and look for an obvious hueco in the wall about 5 feet up. This route climbs to the hueco then continues up through the crack to some anchors.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Breitbach, 1992.
Rap anchors. 55 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
16. Double Helix 5.6 *
This route ascends twin curving cracks located on an outside corner 40 feet left of Armed. Stop when you reach a ledge. Formerly one could traverse 10 feet right to some fixed gear, which doesn't seem to be around any longer. One can traverse farther to the anchors of Armed, or downclimb.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Breitbach, 1993.
Downclimb. 40 ft.
17. Two-Way Trap 5.2

FA: Erik Farley, Kirk Fatool, David Fatool, 1992.
unknown. 15 ft.
18. A Fresh Start 5.10c ****
About 30 feet right of Ride 'em Cowboy is a gully. Scramble up this gully to access a ledge. Walk left to spot a fingercrack with a low overhang. Climb the fingercrack to rappel anchors.

FA: Justin Riddell, Todd Holtkamp, 2001.
Rap anchors. Fingers. 40 ft.
19. Ride 'em Cowboy 5.7 ****
This is the obvious left-facing flake 70 feet left of Double Helix.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Fatool, 1992.
Rap from tree. 40 ft.
20. Gunsight Gully 4th

unknown. 15 ft.
21. Dave Cave 5.1 *
In Gunsight Gully, find a pathway on the left which leads to a wide ledge above The Refrigerator. Chimney up and squeeze between two chockstones to the top.

FA: David Hill, 1993.
Downclimb. 20 ft.
22. Sonic Tunnel 5.4 ***
In the back of Gunsight Gully is a chimney with a hanging boulder. Climb over the boulder to a tunnel which gives a view of the other side of the ridge.

FA: Kirk Fatool, David Fatool, 1993.
unknown. 30 ft.
23. Supergun 5.9 **
Climb the dirty gully 20 feet left of Ride 'em Cowboy and look for a short, overhanging hand and fist crack on the right wall of the upper level.

FA: Erik Farley, Elke Breitbach, 1993.
Fists. 20 ft.
24. Please Don't Feed the Triceratops 5.7 ** (S)
This bolted route is located just left of the gully leading to Supergun.

FA: Erik Farley, 1993.
Cold shuts. 35 ft. 4 bolts.
25. Danger Mouse 5.8 ** (S)
This is the bolted route just left of Don't Feed the Triceratops.

FA: Erik Farley, 1993.
Cold shuts. 35 ft. 4 bolts.
26. The Refrigerator 5.8- **
About 100 feet left of the gully leading to Supergun is an alcove with a large block in it. Climb the right side of the block then up into a cave. Exit the cave then finish to a ledge via an offwidth.

FA: Erik Farley, Mike Dunne, 1992.
Rap from tree. 40 ft.
27. Refrigerator Left 5.8- ***
Climb the left side of the block mentioned in The Refrigerator, then move up the dihedral and face left of the cave to the top or left to a rap station.

FA: Dave Hill, Erik Farley, 1993.
Rap anchors. 40 ft.
28. Skywalker 5.4 **
Climb The Refrigerator to the roof then traverse to the anchors on Chem Studs.

FA: Erik Farley, Kirk Fatool, 1993.
Rap anchors. 40 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
29. Chem Studs 5.10a ** (S)
This route climbs the bolted face left of The Refrigerator.

FA: Erik Farley, Dave Hill, 1993.
Cold shuts. Bouldery or Technical. 30 ft. 4 bolts. Stays dry: Light rain.
30. Way Of The Peaceful Warrior 5.10a **
Starts just a few feet left of Chem Studs. Boulder up to the arching overhang and traverse right (passing over top of Chem Studs) and up through the overhang that is the finish of The Refrigerator.

FA: Jerry Bargo, Steve Must, 1998.
Rappel from tree.
31. Welcome to Bosnia 5.7 *
This route ascends the offwidth 80 feet left of The Refrigerator.

FA: Erik Farley, 1993.
70 ft.
32. Bitchmobile 5.8 ***
This is the finger and hand crack 40 feet left of Welcome to Bosnia.

FA: Dave Hill, Erik Farley, 1991.
Rap anchors. 55 ft.
33. Dreams V3 ***** (B)
Head about a 100 yards past Bitchmobile to a small ampitheather. This is the obvious problem is the on the slightly overhanging face of the free standing boulder.

FA: Chris Chaney, 2000.
Sidepulls. Stays dry: Downpour.

Clearcut Wall

	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.6	2			2
5.8	2			2
5.9	1			1
5.10	1			1
5.12	1			1
Total	7			7

Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Turn right after the bridge onto 9B. Drive 0.5 miles down 9B and park on your right. Ford the creek nearby and hike up the ridge located directly across

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