Home  FAQ  Advanced Search   Index  Register Weather  Board Rules  Album  Forum  Climbing Museum   The 100 comments most recently added to the online guidebook Jul 23rd 2008 - Saxman said the following about Don't Take Yer Guns to Town: Yeah, you better carry a couple of cams at all times in Muir. You never know when the land owner is going to let the crazy bolters put up death routes. Jul 23rd 2008 - Danny said the following about Six Four Face: It's OK cause one of these days I'll climb a route that I didn't climb for enjoyment that no one has climbed and I'll finally be famous. Yay! Jul 22nd 2008 - Yasmeen said the following about Six Four Face: Since Danny's in it for the fame and all, he requested I remove the FA field from this route and Acuwide. Jul 22nd 2008 - Ramdoman said the following about Ledger Line: A hard start unless you use the crack to the left. The middel is the best part and makes for a nice warm-up. I would recomend this climb. Jul 21st 2008 - Jrodan said the following about Six Four Face: Clearly Danny is in it for the fame. That's why he's documenting 5.6 off-widths. I'm guessing this will make it into the next rock and ice. Actually, he probably just wanted to document it so he can claim it on his 8a.nu account. Jul 21st 2008 - Bruisebrother said the following about Six Four Face: Danny, go ahead and document every thing. All of us that have been around awhile have lotsa fa's that aren't written down. Johnny probably had dozens. Alot of people climb everything they see just for the enjoyment and not the Fame. Jul 21st 2008 - Cleveland said the following about Pebble Beach: I climbed Razorback yesterday and noticed a bolted route to the right of it, the bolts look pretty new. Does anyone have any idea what the grade is? Jul 21st 2008 - someone said the following about Wildfire: Got on this over the weekend...a strong contender for one of the best .12a routes in the RRG. Jul 21st 2008 - Kris Hampton said the following about Roadside Attraction: Not if you sling the tree to keep the rope off the hive. Oh wait... maybe that was just too obvious. Jul 21st 2008 - Peng said the following about Jump For Joy: On July 19, 2008, we spotted a copperhead hanging out under the flat rock (which is actually a roof of sorts) about 5 feet left of the bolder on which you start this route. If sort of stayed under there enjoying the heat emmanating from the rock the whole day, going from one side to the other as the sun's orientation changes, and so I'm guessing that it could be its nest. Jul 21st 2008 - Peng said the following about Roadside Attraction: Climbed this on July 19, 2008: at the end of the "1st pitch" ie, where you reach the tree on the ledge, as you come up, there is a bee hive in your face. My advice: as soon as you can, hook right to head for the tree; belay your partner from there; then head on up. If you did this in a single pitch, the rope is going to go right in front of the bee hive and then... Jul 21st 2008 - waddle77 said the following about Redriveroutdoors.com: Overall not too great, but had a few fun moves. Jul 21st 2008 - waddle77 said the following about Beta Spewer: A lot of fun. Way too short. Jul 20th 2008 - Kris Hampton said the following about Don't Take Yer Guns to Town: Not "had" to place a cam... how about "wussed out and chose" to place a cam? Jul 20th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Don't Take Yer Guns to Town: Had to plug a cam? Are you serious? I guess MV does have some serious runouts- maybe a couple of big nuts would've done the trick. Jul 20th 2008 - XenCade said the following about Don't Take Yer Guns to Town: This is more than a one move wonder, the last bolt to the anchors is a beast too. Had to plug a cam between last bolt and anchors. Anchors are straight above the last bolt, which you cannot see even if you are pushing off the wall if you're 5'9" :) Jul 20th 2008 - caribe said the following about Mercy Miss Percy: I kinda liked it. It is a good route for someone comfortable at this grade. Jul 19th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Surfin' the Whales Back: I don't know if we all cheated down low but the move to the anchors felt like solid 10. Fun and unique. Jul 19th 2008 - rjackson said the following about Circa Man: Nice technical climbing down low to great stances and ledges up high. Pat yourself on the back if you on-sited this one... a great climb. Jul 19th 2008 - rjackson said the following about Casual Viewing: Excellent. Very enjoyable even in the summer heat. Good stances to good placements. Took way more sizes of gear than I imagined, it's not your typical crack/flake. Jul 19th 2008 - der uber said the following about Out For Justice: Have to say it felt stiff for 11b. The comments about chalked holds are sooo true. I blew at the end, only to find that I was just inches to the left of a nice clipping hold for the anchors. Good, thin, technical movement. Jul 19th 2008 - der uber said the following about Circa Man: It was good! Yes it gets a little runout at that spot. The climbing is easy though. What looks like a ledgge is actually a slabby ramp, but there's definite holds and excellent ledges for feet. Fun crux, thin but not too tough. Jul 19th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about Possum Lips: i found no way to skip all the "nonsense," but thank God for that jug! this climb is very fun and a bit of a thinker for the techy less-than-vert lovers. Jul 19th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about Mercy Miss Percy: hey KH, i feel that the "4937th try on fuzzy" remark is a bit of a hyperbole! i'm only on attempt #169 :-) this climb is certainly no classic, but it's not really all that bad. Jul 19th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about In the Light: very nice line. the end sure looked scary from the ground, but i found it to be surprisingly easier than it looked. i thought there was a pretty good anchor clipping hold down below too, but i often suck and use bad clipping technique so i was probably pulling too hard or something. Jul 19th 2008 - Danny said the following about Six Four Face: You guys obviously did them before me so I'll have my name removed from the FA. I didn't put any thought or inspiration into naming them so you can rename those two if you'd like. Like I said, I don't care at all about the FA, I just wanted to document them. If I get a chance I'll climb the rest of them and document them and list you guys as the FA. There are a number of other routes I've climbed but not documented, some of which I'm sure have been climbed, so if anyone sees a new route listed that they already climbed let me know and I'll have the attribution changed. I'm just interested in documenting them. Jul 19th 2008 - Bruisebrother said the following about Six Four Face: Sometime back in the early 90's the Manimal and I and a couple others climbed every possible line on the Castle. We assumed they had been done so we never documented them. You're welcome to them. Climb-Safe. Jul 19th 2008 - Danny said the following about Six Four Face: I don't care about claiming the FA. I just thought they should be annotated correctly. I thought the second crack on the right felt 5.6 at best and assumed it was Indian Castle. The first crack on the right had some technical face climbing at the top and I doubted it had been topped out before. It looked like people had bailed using a tree limb before the face. The offwidth on the left side probably hadn't been done. Anyway, if you know someone that has done these routes let me know and I'll have the FA changed. Otherwise we can change the FA to unknown if you're pretty sure they've been done. Jul 18th 2008 - pigsteak said the following about The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock: nice addition josh and ron. Jul 18th 2008 - pigsteak said the following about Surfin' the Whales Back: does this thing climb the chimney for the first three bolts? the face seemed harder than a 10. Jul 18th 2008 - pigsteak said the following about Lula Mae: no more than 25 feet tall. don't be looking for anything taller. Jul 18th 2008 - Ascentionist said the following about Six Four Face: Seems pretty bold to claim these routes as FA. Especially since most people that have climbed in the area consider the "actual" Island route to be sandbagged. Maybe they were on one of these? Jul 18th 2008 - cliftongifford said the following about Valor Over Discretion: horrible rope drag! if you want to save your rope, don't get on this climb. Jul 18th 2008 - cliftongifford said the following about Diamond in the Crack: beautiful climb... the approach is crazy if you don't find the trail! after you cross the river, go up the dirty steep bank and take the faded trail to your left, and it'll lead you up the hill to the pinnacle. Jul 17th 2008 - Wolf said the following about Scissors: Really fun route. It should get done more. Also, flying squirrels! Jul 17th 2008 - kjake035 said the following about It's a Wonderful Life: What a great view and climb! Not to many bees over last weekend but enough flys to drive you mad. Not a bad hike to get to the climb but a sign at the begining of the trail would be nice. Jul 16th 2008 - poser said the following about Perverse Intentions: Did it today. Same as it was when I first did it right after Tony & Richard put it up. Spinner...Stacked washers on one of the bolts...but the rust is new. *grin* Fun. (No, for real!! Please don't fix the gear. I love old, dangerous routes like this one, and the ones with Porter's rusty, old angle-iron hangers. Like long, scary runouts, it's an important part of the character of southern rock climbing. Jul 16th 2008 - italianwrestler125 said the following about Triple Sec (a.k.a. 50 Bucks): absolutely fantastic climb, incredibly fun movement Jul 16th 2008 - Danny said the following about Gizmo: Good route. Consistent difficulty and non-trivial gear. Jul 16th 2008 - cliftongifford said the following about People Gully: solo Jul 15th 2008 - Wolf said the following about Tug-o-War: Nice crux! Jul 15th 2008 - Wolf said the following about Treetop Terror: This route is cool. The flake never really turned into a handcrack in my opinion. There is a horizontal that takes a bomber hand size piece after the flake ends though. Jul 15th 2008 - Wolf said the following about Ascentuality: I would say the top part is 5.10. There are huge jugs, but there's a long move between some of them, and the crack was too small for me to get my fingers in. Awesome, awesome line. Really ridiculously fun. Jul 15th 2008 - FujManiac said the following about Tall Cool One: Fun route! Had a snake almost fall on my head here right before I started the climb...but past that, good route! Jul 15th 2008 - FujManiac said the following about Send Me On My Way: there is some sort of bee/wasp making it's home at the top of this route. They won't bother you, but you should be wised. If you're allergic, you may want to think twice before doing this route. Jul 14th 2008 - JeffCastro said the following about Surfin' the Whales Back: This route was really fun. The start requires a lot of balance. Jul 14th 2008 - caribe said the following about Surfin' the Whales Back: If you want to trip, try this thing without chimneying. The movement on this route is fantastic; get on it. fantastic bolting! Jul 14th 2008 - Wolf said the following about Kentucky Flu: Good climb. Nice view. Stick clip recommended. Jul 14th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Beware the Bear: Oh come on Tucky, just be creative. Jul 14th 2008 - someone said the following about Tuna Town: except for the 5.11's... Jul 14th 2008 - uberwhipper said the following about Valor Over Discretion: I always wanted to climb the route but never got around to it untill recently. I don't know if it was the build up or what, but I wasn't impressed. It makes you feel sorta exposed because untill the third bolt, you probably shouldn't fall, but the actually climb is mediocre at best. It tore the crap outta my rope too. Maybe a cool free solo if you are into that. Jul 14th 2008 - uberwhipper said the following about Five Finger Discount: My first ever trad climb, even though I was on clean up. Tons of fun and great view from the top. Jul 14th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Hen's Nest: The river crossing is definitely the way to go- you will save much time, frustration and swearing, especially if you're hiking out in a fierce downpour in search of dry crack. You can see Hen's Nest from the road but no so much from the trees. Faint trail might be an understatement so don't waste too much time looking for a beaten path, just find the drainage and go up. The cracks here are short and sweet, but most importantly, dry in a downpour and rarely visited. Go give em' some love. Jul 14th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Lunatic Fringe: Didn't seem too R rated, sank a bomber nut about 10ft before the ledge with loads of bomber gear below that. Eliminated the pendulum by tying in long to the hangers and building my own belay anchor with a 1,2, camalot and 00 tcu that seemed quite solid. Great jammin' to the roof. Jul 13th 2008 - bcarr said the following about Jump For Joy: I understand the complaining with regards to the bolt placement. The 2nd bolt is in a terrible spot. If you climb toward the right, it makes the climb a 5.10a. If you climb left along the 9ish path, you are absolutely unprotected as you clip the 2nd bolt (will hit the boulder if you fall). An additional bolt between the 1st and 2nd would fix it. Other than that, I like the route. Jul 13th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about Beware the Bear: i thought it was similar to the military 5.9's... hard if you grab the wrong holds but not bad at all if you hit the right ones. a few side pulls and a little footwork and such make the moves about 5.10a. just don't waste your time searching around for a clipping hold above the anchors. Jul 13th 2008 - tbwilsonky said the following about Boltergeist: climb, stand, climb, stand, etc.. cool but not awe inspiring. Jul 13th 2008 - Rollo said the following about Chimp: Fun slab climbing down low into easier stuff for the second half of the climb. The roof is practically bypassed on the left. Jul 13th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about Hatfield: yeah, the moves are all easy, but WHY OH WHY must there be so damn many of them? ooh ooh, i know, to give me yet another climb to come back to for "measurement of improvement" (rolling eyes). great climb though! Jul 12th 2008 - pigsteak said the following about Kentucky Flu: thanks matt and don. this route is perhaps the best slab in the southern region. lander, you climbed all the wrong climbs. get on this, the crack to the left of it, the next two 12 vert lines, the arete...aaaah, the joy continues! Jul 12th 2008 - pigsteak said the following about The Cheerleader Catch: decent practice for the genre. Jul 12th 2008 - Josephine said the following about Ohio Arts: the fall sucks for sure. Sco Bro's comments might be worthwhile adding to the next guidebook. Jul 12th 2008 - michaelarmand said the following about Funhouse: Yeah, it was wet at the bottom today as well. The rest of the climb was pleasant... Jul 12th 2008 - michaelarmand said the following about Strick 9: Classic! All you need is a nut for the top....I guess a tri-cam would also work.... Jul 12th 2008 - JR said the following about Bundle of Joy: I know DYNO! Jul 11th 2008 - Wolf said the following about Alternative Medicines: Cool route. I loved the day-glo orange lichen. Jul 11th 2008 - Wolf said the following about No Sleep Till Campton: Cool route. Tough crux. Jul 11th 2008 - petey said the following about Bulldozer: onsight...never been so sketched at points...definitely a couple of thank you holds on this route though...overall not the best i've ever been at; however, sweet start. Jul 11th 2008 - Jeff said the following about Party Time: http://teamsuckclimbing.com/reportbadbolts.php may go up there this week and take care of them Jul 9th 2008 - kidney_dave said the following about Party Time: i will be back to fortress soon, guess i will drag along a few more lockers... :( it's sad people can't leave things well enough alone...it's not like those were bail biners........... Jul 9th 2008 - jeff_c said the following about Party Time: Lockers are gone! Someone decided they needed them more. I thought this was a great route. Highly recommend. I agree with the anchors also. Bolts with washer holding chain, very old school, but they aren't wore just rusty. Jul 8th 2008 - chriss said the following about Tuna Town: I would say that this is harder than the 'High Hard One', and that it also requires more fitness than say Flux or Harvest. As always, it is very subjective, and everyone will tell you something different. Hell, I think that we should call the entire undertow wall 5.12, that doesn't leave much to debate. Jul 8th 2008 - someone said the following about Tuna Town: harder than what .12d's on the undertow?!?! Jul 8th 2008 - tbwilsonky said the following about Crack the Whip: short, sweet, and sequential. really nice movement with two semi-powerful crux sections. Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Quicksilver: There are so many routes in the Red more deserving of the shiny Fixe chains that hang on this one. Woodrat hell, I think one a dem panters lives in this thing! Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Howard Roark: If your at the village and prefer spiders to snakes give it a go. Good gear, and some nice jammin but its sho nuff grimy. Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Good Times: Long and classic, great moves with good pro in the tough spots. Stayed dry in a light rain. Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Cussin' Crack: Watch and see how long it takes before the cussin' starts- 20, 30, 40 ft.?? A whole lotta WTF- Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Calypso I: It would be great with its own anchors but I don't know where you'd put em, nothing but a load of chossy, bee infested talus up there. Great climb nonetheless , wish it were longer. Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Blue Runner: Fun, varied climbing. The thin crux protects great with small stoppers keeping the good fingers freed up. Lots of low flying bats at dusk, very cool and more effective than a can of OFF. Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about BDSM: The hardest moves preceded pro that would do anything- better stickclip this one... Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Arachnid: My favorite 8. Do it while the bottom half is soaked for that extra spicy flavor. Jul 8th 2008 - Myke Dronez said the following about Up Swift Creek Without a Paddle: Great jamming to a pod and a pumpy run to the fixed gear anchor. Crack just stays dry in rain- go give it some love. Jul 7th 2008 - someone said the following about Bundle of Joy: the last crux was crazy hard. felt like 12d up to that. probably a lot hard then 12d unless there is some secret beta that im missing. awesome route though!! Jul 7th 2008 - Thomas8696 said the following about Tuna Town: harder than some of the other 12d's at the undertow wall, and most certainly harder than resurrection. I would say 12d is about right. Jul 7th 2008 - RRO said the following about What About Bob Wall: hmmm, quite a few routes there are concensus high ratings and are def not piles. if you went right, those routes kinda suck. maybe you need some new slab shoes..... Jul 7th 2008 - sendit said the following about Doppler Effect: a great stemming route, less intimidating when you're on it then how looks from the ground. A must do! Jul 7th 2008 - Kris Hampton said the following about Atlas Shrugged: Shit! You're right. I remember that. Jul 7th 2008 - Josephine said the following about What About Bob Wall: the approach trail goes through a hornet's nest. all 3 members of our party were stung. on the return we bushwhacked through the rhodos to avoid that area. might be worthwhile to hike up to Rival Wall to avoid that issue. Jul 7th 2008 - michaelarmand said the following about Significant Other: Fun climb, thoughtful crux.... Jul 7th 2008 - michaelarmand said the following about Summer Breeze: The climb had fun moves...but it was really chossy.... Jul 7th 2008 - Lander said the following about What About Bob Wall: what about pile? Jul 7th 2008 - Meadows said the following about Beta-vul Pipeline: Awesome, classic route. Huge jugs for 5 bolts and a definite crux. Loved it! Jul 7th 2008 - Ray said the following about Atlas Shrugged: The natural line is the pockets. I saw them form before the dihedral. Jul 7th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about Nice to Know You: sweet line... sustained and fun the whole way but with plenty good no hands stances and "thank god" pockets right after you step up Jul 6th 2008 - Brentucky said the following about Same Way: similar to fuzzy, but in reverse. big plates to no hands rest to cool crux. Jul 6th 2008 - someone said the following about Get on the Good Foot: If you go about 10-15 right of the start there is a slabby face with a football sized feature in the middle. Using this feature to climb up to the first rounded ledge makes for a more interesting start, but should be toproped as I saw no good way to protect it. Jul 6th 2008 - chriss said the following about Peace Frog: Great movement on surprisingly solid rock. Jul 6th 2008 - chriss said the following about Atlas Shrugged: Great addition to the cliff! This may be the 'natural line', but it pales in comparison to the original line. Jul 6th 2008 - funhog said the following about Aviary: Golly, that is too bad about the lowering issue. I actually never considered anyone would do that, duh. Although we did have a TR on it for the longest time with no rope shortage, must be all the wandering between bolts (roof) eats up cord. It was set up for rapping off only. I guess the best thing to do is party with your party on the ledge and rap off. How stiff is the move between the last 2 bolts? Thanks for the kind words, seems a shortage of that in all the other crap I read here. Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).